Wednesday 30 December 2015

Day 25: Hiking to see Franz Josef Glacier- too cloudy to fly

Wednesday 30th December

Hiking to Robert's Point to see the Franz Josef Glacier
Kayaking in the local lake

Distance: Hike, 11km +2km, Minibus & Kayak, 12km(?)

Total Distance: 4020km

Today started with a disappointment. We were due to fly by helicopter up to the Franz Josef Glacier. However, the cloud was low and thick, preventing us going. I tried to switch onto a later flight, but as the cloud refused to move that was cancelled too. A few people went off to the brilliant bakery, having 'saved' $300.

Instead a few of us decided to go get the best view of Franz possible. The advice was that there was a viewing platform which wasn't say to get to, but would be below the level of the clouds whilst allowing us a good view of the exposed glacier.

The hike was tough and very dangerous at times, but not too concerning for 5 young people with some experience of doing these things. It was a fun challenge, and we crossed over a number of worrying swing bridges, as well as traversing various interesting 'paths'.

Finally we reached the top, getting a wonderful view of the glacier and a spot for lunch.

Link to my friends Facebook album of photos:
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10153611614986977&id=632806976


We returned quickly and without drama (we may have got a little lost...), before hitting the bakery for RnR. 

Despite our tiredness we were off again, going kayaking in the local lake. The guides were great and I had a lot of chat with the one from Wales who's been here for 5 months. We took a paddle down a little creek at the far end of the lake, then returned making silly faces and poses for the guides who took pictures.

Link to the kayak companies photo album:
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10153613094846977&id=632806976

Afterwards we we shattered. 1 pint at the pub, scavenge some food, then early to bed.

Day 24: Moved closer to the Franz Josef glacier, did Laundry, all thrilling for me :P

Tuesday 29th December 

I did laundry! That should not be as exciting as it is. But I'm now just below NZ's glacier, Franz Josef

Distance: bus, 129km

Total Distance: 3995km

I washed my clothes today! They fill half a load. It's all I need.

Is it bad that that is the best thing to happen today? Sorry, just haven't had time to do a wash since Wellington. (Thank you to Sara for helping out with that one!)

We set out with a varied collection of hang overs towards Franz Josef, the town set up below the Franz  Josef Glacier. We stopped off at a lake for more pictures, had a wee walk, then got here for an afternoon of chilling out.

A few went kayaking this afternoon, but I will be going tomorrow evening. We organised that as well as going to see the glacier tomorrow (weather permitting). Then laundry, visit NZ's no.1 bakery, sat in a hot tub, write up a weeks worth of blog (slap wrists for slacking), and now is time for happy hour and all you can eat pizza.

Soon all of the friends I made so far will be going south whilst I spend 4 nights here, then 4 nights in the next stop. Won't see them again unless something really crazy happens, or we all meet up in Europe, which would be cool.

Cup of Yorkshire Tea 2 down, time for a beersies

Day 23: Lake Mahinapua, I'm Gandalf, Poo Pub, and swimming again

Monday 28th December

Lemon scented trash bag Gandalf visits the Poo Pub

Distance: bus, 151km

Total Distance: 3866km

Our first trip today was to the Pancake Rocks and Blowhole, a formation of limestone on the coast which has a strongly striated pattern horizontally, and is also being eroded to create blowholes. These are much more impressive at high tide, but we were there half way to low tide, still good to see though.

We then stopped in Greymouth for bin bags. Why? Because we were off to a party at the Poo Pub? Where? It's a pub once owned by an old man who loved having KE to stay, but died a few years ago. The pub was bought by the founder of KE, revamped, and is now where everyone goes for a party. Out near a beautiful, if brown, Lake Mahinapua, where we would go for a quick swim with photos taken by Flea, missing the few eels present.

The bin bags were for the party. That was the theme, so we all made costumes out of plastic bags and tape. 

I was to be Gandalf the Grey, with grey, lemon scented bags for robes, a white bag for beard, a random Mexican sombrero covered in grey bags for hat, a drift wood staff, and my inflatable camping lantern at the tip of the staff. It wasn't going to win fashion awards, and Weta Workshop would never be proud, but in the pub it worked really well. Everyone guessed who I was straight away and raved about the light on the end of my staff.

We had a great party that carried on until the early hours. I gave up the beard, hat, and staff after a few hours as I sweated through the evening. Yet as people began to leave I went to find it again. Between the pub and the lake is a side trail that takes 30 minutes instead of the 8 minute route straight to the lake. With the lantern on my staff I decided to have a quick evening stroll through the forest. It's a much different place in black and white when all you can see are the plants either side of the track. 

Eventually I reached the lake, turned round, and took the 8 minute track back to the hostel. Here the light was switched off. In the undergrowth next to the road were multiple tiny points of glowing light. Glow worms! Like the ones I had seen in the caves on the North Island, but living in the bush. They were present all the way along the track, like the lights along an aeroplane's aisles. It was bizarre, quaint, and beautiful. 

Day 22: Hitchhiking, KE back together, swimming, Westport

Sunday 27th December 

Hitchhiked for the first time with the power of positive thinking, before being reunited with friends from the Kiwi Bus, and on to building a drift wood beach fire at Westport

Distance: Walk 2km, hitchhiking, 13km, bus, 240km

Total Distance: 3715km 

Early start to start the walk back to Kaiteriteri where the Kiwi Experience bus was. 12km to walk. It wasn't far having done Abel Tasman, but then it was far having just done Abel Tasman. Another 12km by 11:30am? Only if I have to.

The power of positive thinking is a great thing. No, I'm not turning into a hippy. Well, maybe I am. Anyway, as a Briton hitchhiking seemed like such a strange concept. As I walked a few cars passed me and I sheepishly put out a thumb. Nothing. Fair enough, I wouldn't stop either. Then I remembered how far it was. Hitchhiking is something that happens a lot here, a few people see the whole country that way. I deserved to be picked up. Plenty of people would be going my way. Stand tall, put out a thumb and grab a ride, easy.

As soon as I'd decided on a positive attitude the next car to pass picked me up. That simple. See, The Power of Positive thinking. I'll stop being a hippy now.

They were a German couple in a rental car exploring NZ. We had a chat about living here and their travels before parking in Kaiteriteri. We said our good byes, Merry Christmas, and my thanks, then they went off for breakfast. I went off to the hostel and to find the KE crew.

The Europeans I was on the north of the North Island were there! I never though I'd see them again, the times weren't going to match up. But with a few extra days they'd reached this point just before Christmas and stayed. It's been great being back with them, catching up and joking around like we did a week ago. There's also a solid Northern British contingent here so I've had a good few chats with them too, catching up with home news and views, as well as the usual crap Young British lads talk.

Our new bus driver is called Flea (aka Felicity), and has been driving for KE for years. She now has a photography business, but takes a bus or two at busy times of year, as well as doing the promo photos for KE. Hence she has a great camera and was always looking for perfect shots of us all.

Today we were travelling to the ex-gold mining town of Westport, famous for surfing. On the way we stopped off at a Lake. Here we all jumped off the jetty as its a great view, getting Flea a fair few shots of us jumping.

Then they attacked.

There was a colony of BIG eels hiding under the jetty, in the shade. One of the Danish guys was trying to climb out of the water onto the jetty when he kicked one. Three times. Idiot. The eel sunk its 3 rows of teeth into the top of the inside of his thigh. It didn't take a full bite, just a nip. Enough to draw blood, leaving a nice mark in a nice place for him to show off by lifting the leg of his swimming shorts in a worrying manner.

After that everyone was much more careful, keeping away from the school near the jetty. Well, everyone but moi. I took my waterproof camera and went down to get some blurry videos of them sitting around. As I had seen done in the Waitomo caves I also splashed the water surface. They all stared at me. 2 big ones began to move towards me. I backed off.

At the end of the day we got to Westport, once one of New Zealand's largest towns, during the years of the gold rush. However some fool decided to put all of the spoils from the mines into the harbour, blocking it up, leaving Westport with minimal gold and no port. It's now a little town with a large coal mine, which was mentioned to us as they recently had one of NZ's largest mining disasters there, with over 30 men killed, but due to the poisonous gases down there their bodies have still not been recovered.

We stayed in a nice hostel, finding our beds and having a spot of dinner before taking our KE coach down to the beach. Here we saw the sun set and a golden full moon rise whilst sat around a drift wood fire. I shared a box of beers with the Danish guys, chatted some more with the Brits, and caught up with the friends I'd started KE with. It was a good night, finished off with a quick trip to the local pub.

Day 21: Finishing Abel Tasman

Saturday 26th December

Finishing Abel Tasman with a minibus ride that left me green, then shower, food, bed

Distance: Walked, 11km, Minibus, 80km

Total Distance: 3460km

Up not too early today was finish day! Whilst Christmas was still going in the UK, and just started in the USA, I was off, up over the big hill (200m, not that big really) to the finish. Here I sat with French, German, Isreali and Chinese hikers waiting for a prearranged bus. He arrived early and we were soon off back to the start. 

The road out of the Waipu Car Park is all switchbacks. ALL switchbacks. And the driver knew each one, so he could hit them at the highest speed possible. He was a pleasant, friendly, older gentleman, but his driving made me green in minutes. Thank goodness I hadn't eaten much that morning. I tried to sleep, must have managed some, then just tried to get my body to accept the turbulence of the drive. Should I have asked him to slow down? Maybe, but I just wanted to get back.

Once returned to the start of the walk I lay down for a while, drinking all of my water and recalibrating my systems. There were showers at my next stop. I hadn't had a shower in days. Go. Get up. Become clean. Become human again.

The campsite was called Old McDonalds and had a few animals and such about the place. It was busy, but I found a quite spot under a tree for my tent. After an ice cream I went and stood in the shower for half an hour. Just stood there. Just let the water was my sweat and muck away. It was lovely. I could have stayed there forever.

I left and went to the local cafe. As well as not showering I also had no hot food nor meat whilst walking. Time for a treat. Stone baked sea food pizza with a beer. I tried to work through it slowly, make it last. But I was tired and bed called. Before 9 I was in the tent, rapped up, asleep.

Day 20: Abel Tasman 2, Estuary day

Friday 25th December

Merry Christmas from the man wading across an estuary 

Distance 20km

Total Distance 3369km

Merry Christmas!

Out of the 200 people I passed walking on Christmas Day (beats any other Christmas walk on the beach!) about 15 of us were celebrating with hats, tinsel, or earrings. We said Merry Christmas to one another, smiled and looked joyful. Everyone else was Bah Humbug, especially the ones with kids, and at best I got a "Hey". What ever, I still celebrated. One day of the year, now or never, blink and you'll miss it.

The challenge of the day was a stretch of water that had to be crossed between 1.5hours before to 2hours after low tide. Outside of these times you'd drown there. Low tide, 4:10pm, ergo start crossing at 2:40pm. 4hours from my start point, so there was no rush in the morning. I steadily packed up and started.

It's surprising to find that there are people living in the National Park. They were here before the park, own their land, and are just there for school holidays and the like. One needs a boat to get in and out, there are no shops or other amenities. Torrent Bay Village is the largest collection, a community of very expensive property in a very picturesque bay. Must be a great place to stay for holidays.

I eventually reached the lodge by the estuary. There were people there who I recognised from the day before and that morning, all of us going in the same direction, now all waiting together. It was 1:30pm, time for Christmas Dinner of marmite sandwiches and Jelly Babies whilst the waters receded. Probably around 30 people were there waiting, and many on the other side too. 

A few from the other side tried the estuary early, getting up to their chests in water as they crossed. I waited until sensible people safely crossed. At 2:40pm the exodus started, boots off, people waded across. After a few groups had started I moved out with a large mob or hikers, my walking poles in hand, bare feet, and got up to my knees in the warm water. There were a lot of shells littering the places- a carpet at times, which I had to go round- as well as the crabs living in the sand. It wasn't kind to my feet, and the tiny blister on my foot was opened up by the sand rubbing, but was easy and novel. Once across I dried my feet, donned my boots, had a quick look at the fish in the water, then went uphill.

The last major stop before my camp was Totanui (SP), which one can drive to. It has spaces for camper vans and tents, as well as the visitor centre. I stopped for water and dinner, then carried on.

Mutton Cove has a lot of space for camping, as well as many cheeky Wekas. The Weka is as flightless bird the size of a large chicken. They love campsites, were people have food and other things to steal. No one harms them so they are nearly tame. You can't touch them (they are good runners- you aren't getting back what they steal), but they will run about amongst the tourists, occasionally bumping into people when they are fighting amongst themselves. Tent up, gear in, I fell asleep to the sound of the waves and a large group of French hikers chatting.

Day 19: Abel Tasman, my first, longest, hottest day

Thursday 24th December 

A gorgeous, but knackering day starting through the Abel Tasman National Park Coastal Track

Distance walked 31km

Total Distance 3349km

"You are going to do this. One more hill. That's all it is. Nothing. You used to be able to do this in your sleep. What's wrong with you? You've become soft. You used to be so good at this. Too much time on your fat arse. Get up. Get up and go. Just do it. You'll be at your camp then, you can rest there. Go to sleep there. But now you're going to get over this last hill."

Some days you just need an old school team talk to get you going. Or, in this case, to finish. It was a long day, 31.5km over small, but numerous, hills, through stunning landscapes and seascapes. Mostly I walked in the forest, but the trail followed the coast, such that it was interspersed by the bluest waters under the clearest sky.

The day started with a lift from a German woman who was going to get the taxi to the furthest point along the walk one can, about 2/3 of the way along. She, like many people, was going to start there and walk back to her car.

As I began a young guy was doing roughly the same pace as me so we got to talking. He was from Sheffield! Which, given where we are, means we practically grew up as neighbours. As a builder he couldn't find enough work in the UK, but there was plenty available in New Zealand. A few years ago Christchurch suffered a horrendous earthquake, destroying many homes and city centre. Much of the population left. Since then the rebuild has been steady for various reasons- finance and building earthquake safe buildings being the two biggest. For two years he has been working there with many others. Only a young lad he's far from home but enjoying it. Soon he'll be eligible for residency.

We discussed home, living in NZ, the differences, both good and bad. What we missed from home, Christmas, Abel Tasman, and many other topics. Eventually we reached his campsite and seperated. It wasn't even lunchtime, so he was due for an afternoon of sunbathing and swimming. How boring, I had 7 hours of hiking ahead of me.

One can cut 30 minutes out of the hike by taking a low tide track along the beaches and through an estuary. Otherwise it's the high tide track- but this comes with numerous swing bridges and Cleopatra's Pool!

Cleopatra's Pool is part of a river including small waterfalls, lagoons, and many large boulders. I spotted Cleopatra's Eel- a 6ft long, 6 inch thick eel, calmly swimming under the boulders, which resulted in all the other tourists gathering round to snap pictures.

Having eaten lunch I carried on, up and over more hills, past more beaches, blue sky, blue sea, through the lush forest.

I had one last hill to do when I reached Bark's Bay. The his is a proper place to stop- proper campsite, lodge, filtered water fit for drinking. Hence I stopped for half a dinner, drank water, filled my bottles, then set out again before I fell asleep.

I was getting more into the walk at this point, but the last hill was still tough. Eventually I hit my own bit of paradise though- Tonga Quarry. There's a small island there confusingly called Tonga- obviously no The Tonga, just A Tonga. There was still the foundations of the works there, but also the beach and my little oozed sanded spot to sleep. I chatted with an English couple who had done my stretch for the next day, getting the low down on how nice and relatively flat it was. The tent went up, gear went in, bed made, and I passed out. 

Nice day, but should have been two!


Friday 25 December 2015

Day 18: More Kayaking, and a lift to an amazing hostel

Wednesday 23rd December 

Kayaking near Abel Tasman, then chilling in a forest-hostel with more Germans

Distance: Kayak, 5km, Minibus, 32km

Total Distance  3318km

Today began bright and early with a few hours of kayaking east of the Abel Tasman national park. I ended up in a sea kayak with 1/3 of a wild Swedish trio who were hilarious, to the point that they were nearly better than the kayaking.

The down side to the kayaking was that it was too short. And in the wrong direction. Out west of where we started is the amazingly beautiful Abel Tasman, which includes a marine reserve brimming with life. 

I've been told before, yet had forgotten, not to buy the prepaid vouchers from the Kiwi Experience website. The vouchers ensure you are paid up, occasionally at a discount, to do certain activities. The ones available via the website are not bad, but they are the minimum. There is actually better available when one is on the bus, as well as what is on the vouchers.

Thus, if I did it again, I would have signed up to do a full day in Abel Tasman. Or, had I been with other people, I would have done what the smart people were doing and getting kayaks for a few days, putting gear on them, then going glamping on the various beaches. You can carry far more on a kayak than on your back! Some people had brought everything with them, including their barbecue. But, being solo, I'm not so keen to take to the seas. I don't have gills. Bad things happen at sea, even when just off shore.

After the kayaking I had a different hostel to get to. Being lazy and the kayak crew taking their bus in the same direction, I asked for a lift down the road. To my surprise they took we down the road, then up the long drive to my hostel. Lovely :)

Most of the rest of the day was spent sprawling about the hostel.

I love Budget Hostels here- especially the small ones, they always have so much character.

This one was high in the hills, surrounded by forest, with no signal (but no where here has signal), and with hammocks! I love hammocks.

I alternated half hours of reading and napping for a while, until I was joined by a dasselling German. She smiled at me and I smiled back. I attempted to turn in the hammock to talk to her, but, failing to make it nonchalant I put my head back... and blacked out. Have you ever fallen into such a deep sleep that you lose your balance? I did. An hour later waking up felt like being hauled out of a deep well. Forgetting nonchalant I dizzily made my way back inside. 

After a shower, dinner, and a coffee I felt slightly more human. I was sat in the kitchen about to write a blog entry when a German girl asked me if I wanted to join a small group of random Germans enjoying a pre-Christmas celebration. She'd received a dried mulled wine mix plus spice mix from her grandmother and made some carrot cake. Thus Christmas Eve Eve was spent with 5 Germans, switching between a language I vaguely recognise now and my native tongue, discussing everything from various international Christmas traditions, to German markets in Munich, Edinburgh and Birmingham, to what activities we were all planning for the next few days.


Monday 21 December 2015

Day 14, 15, 16, 17: Bulls, Wellington, Ferry, SOUTH ISLAND!

19th-22nd December
Rotorua-Bulls-Wellington-Ferry-South Island- Kaiteriteri

Distance, Bus, Roto to Ferry, 462km, Ferry 98km, Bus to Kaiteriteri, 169km
Total Distance 3281km

Well, the excitement of Days 12 & 13 were a killer to write up. Better not do anything too exciting for a while.

I needed to go back to Bulls to refuel, restock, and move gear, before going to Wellington for meeting to organise my life for the next 5 months, then onto the Interislander Ferry.

On the way to Bulls our driver of the public bus randomly stopped off by the major mountains of the North Island (not including Taranaki, which is also worth visiting). Suddenly I realised this might be the last time I would see Tongoriro and Ngauruhoe, of the Tongoriro Crossing, and Ruepehu, where I went skiing with students from Massey University. The weather was gorgeous. Picture time!



I repackaged at Bulls, had a catch up with my flatmates Ben and Emma, who were very helpful agreeing to post my giant parcel home for me. Last look around Bulls, were I've been living for the past year, before the bus to Wellington.

I love Wellington. Stay here.go to Te Papa, you'll learn a lot about NZ. I've done about 2 days there. I try to go back for the art gallery on the top floor whenever I can. Mount Victoria and Botanical garden are beautiful too, as is the waterfront. I'll try hit Zealandia and Weta Workshop when I'm back to fly out.

Instead, this time, I repacked again, went to see Star Wars (before I hear any spoilers!), and was invited by my friend to the leaving do of two of the most important people in the history of the NZ veterinary association's magazine's history, at a bar on the waterfront.

This morning I was up early, packed then off to the Kiwi Experience bus and the ferry. So now here I am, eating the Famous Interislander Scones- seriously, good job I'm sat near where the trolley came in, they were gone in minutes, date, plain, and cheese varieties, with butter, jam, and cream. They present it really well, then I was released on mine:


I wanted to take a "before" photo, but got too excited.

3 hours to get across, with cinema, bar, full English breakfasts, magic shows, and dubious but free wifi, all available. 

So, to the South Island. I'll be kayaking again this afternoon!

Here's the South Island 



Saturday 19 December 2015

Day 12: Waitomo Caves- SO good

Thursday 17th December
5 of us from the Kiwi Experience bus, 2 Germans, a Finish couple, and Moi. Oh, and our cool guides too.
Travel: KE bus Hot Water Beach to Waitomo Caves, 223km, Caves, 3km? Let's go with that
Total Distance: 2394km

5 hours of brilliant awesomeness!
Not that street level awesome. Not even that Britain Just Got Its First Non-dual Citizen In To Space awesome. No. That proper takes your break away and opens up new worlds to your personal life awesome. To everyone who told me to go for the full big 5 hour adventure, thank you. SO GOOD.

Waitomo, like North Yorkshire, is a region founded on limestone. This rock dissolves slowly due to water flow (although it's becoming faster as we get more acidic rain). Over time this wears holes in the rock, taking millions of years to form caves, tunnels, stalactites, stalagmites, st was, flow stone, cave coral, and waitomos. Waitomo is a Maori work roughly translated to mean hole in the earth where water goes into/comes from. They are the holes eroded between the surface and the tunnels beneath, normally by water flowing through a crack over thousands of years to make the crack larger.

Our two guides were cool. One was a young guy who'd been there for a while. The other was a younger lass who was missing one hand. If you don't know why this is important to me catch up on my blog posts from end of August to November, particularly the whinny one about life in a cast. She could handle here gear faster than most climbers I've ever seen. We had a good chat about living in NZ on the drive to the caves. My interest in her might also have been helped by her being beautiful, funny, interesting, out going, joyful, bright... you know, all the things that make you wonder if migrating back is really such a good idea. Anyway...

The Team


We were all fitted with wetsuits and climbing harnesses. I took my high tech thermals too, basically like Lycra with a shiny inside, because they've kept we toasty for canyoning in the past, and caves are generally not that warm (though generally steady all year round, so great in winter). We were given 2 carabiners and a 5 bar abseiling rig- I've been climbing for over a decade and I can't remember ever using a 5 bar before, interesting bit of kit that I won't nerd out by explaining. (Dear Mum, it's safe, don't worry.) Then off in the bus to training.

"Training"


There was a wee training session, using ropes outside to practice abseiling, ensuring we could slowly descend and stop properly. Then we were off on our own!

The waitomo we were to enter through was surrounded by green, tropical bush, and has a steel walkway built above it. As would soon become the theme of the day, I was pushed to the front by the group to go first. I looked down into the pitch black hole and slid off the walkway into the abyss. 

Ready to go


The cave is an hourglass shape, narrowing such that I had to twist around to fit throughthe gap, before twisting back to get my feet on the wall. From here I could turn slightly to look down at the..at the...where's the bottom? How deep is this thing?

(That's not me)



I slid down into the darkness, before hitting the floor. Unclipping from the rope, I moved out of the way for the others to follow, using just enough light to find a seat before the German lads followed. With the lights out I could see the creatures this area is famous for.

Up above, attached across the whole roof, and in some places the walls, were the tiny green cloud of glowing jewels. Up there, high above us, one could see nothing but their little lights, as the rest of the team abseiled in.

Once gathered we had a chat about how the caves are formed, the formations in the cave, and some of the fossils found there. Limestone is formed from the reminents of crustacean shells building up on the floor bed. Occasionally some of the shells remain intact or skeletons are buried with them and have become fossilised. Later we would see more fossils including a whale rib.

From here we went to the rope swing. 
Pick your spirit animal.
Think of the noise that animal makes.
Now be tied to a rope and be hurtled through a pitch black cavern making that noise.
Fun times.

The guy before me made a noise that sounded like an alcoholic seal. He said it was a dog. His dog needs seeing to.
I went with a fox- and given that the mating call of a fox is basically a scream mine was easy! Not to mention fun. Even if no one know what it was.

We regrouped on a high ledge, watching people who had been on the tour before us paddle past in the stream below. Hot chocolate and biscuits were passed around as we stared up at yet more glow worms.



Our ledge had a steel platform attached to the side of it, placed over a deeper section of the stream below. Can you guess what this was for? No, we didn't just jump in. We jumped in with our rubber ring -theoretically- landing in it. Some of us could pull off having our fat arse stuck in and getting it to stay. Others managed to get onto the water, only for the ring to Buck and toss them face first into the black lagoon. A lovely welcome to cave water.

We made our way up stream, splashing around, swimming, paddling, walking. The glow worms grew thicker above our heads and the roof grew closer. 

Eventually the point at which most groups turn back was reached. Here we saw a juvenile Waitomo, water raining down from the ceiling through a crack above our heads, slowly opening at glacial speed. 

We were the last group of the day and only half sized compared to the norm. This meant we'd spent half as long doing the first stages, and the same would be true of later. We had time to spare. And the cave didn't stop here. In the way back I would over hear one guide telli another that he hadn't been down here in a long time, so it wasn't BS when he told us this wasn't the norm. We were going further into the caves, and it was phenomenal.

Before we entered he slammed his ring down on the water three times, making an explosive noise. We then swam, quietly, as the cave shrank and the glow worms got closer. Yet the light became stronger. They became more numerous. I kept my headlamp off to be able to see them better. We began to see the silk threads hanging from below each form, occasionally with a dead insect trapped within. A worm might be seen feasting on its little victim, the starry sky above hoped to entrap more victims. 

We eventually reached the sump, where the roof meets the water, the cave becomes narrow, and one needs scuba gear to cover the next 50m to find the next cavern. The worm silk hung down, not quite reaching our faces. We could see their long, clear bodies, like a thin, elongated caterpillar with a glowing bum. Lights were extinguished and we sat in the light. There were far more worms here than further down. Vastly more. The walls shone with bioluminescence. It was astounding.

Lights off, floating, we silently slid down stream, past millions of points of light. Though not before our guide had, again, hammered the water with his float. After this it was pure tranquility, floating in the darkness, staring up at an alien sky.

The reason for banging the water with his ring was to generate air flow. This vibrates the worm silk, making them believe there are insects very nearby, such that they increase the luminescence, giving a brighter light for a short time. Singularly the effect isn't, for human eyes, vast, but times it by a few million and it's very noticeable.

We kept going, past our young waitomo, past our high ledge, and further on to the dam built to keep the stream consistent throughout the caves, up stream and down. For this section, rather than a boring jump over the dam, there's a water slide! Which we went down head first, of course.



We still had some time to go, but now was a good place to stop.
"Does anyone need a wee?"
The group looked sheepishly at each other. We were in a cave in New Zealand, about to do more caving. Well, as much as I didn't want to do it with a vague idea of trying to tie myself in a knot, it's also another one to add to tick of the bucket list. Or urinal list. I've had the chance to pee in some amazing places before now, might as well add it.
"Yeh, it might help", the group looked relieved that someone had said yes, and we split off to find relief in the caves.

As the water level fell the numbers of glow worms decreased. They live off insects that pupate from the water before flying around the cave. Less water, less food.

The next section of the cave is the Drunken Stumble- an area with an uneven floor making people walk as though they've had a good night out in Glasgow. To this end we were each given a rock. The challenge was to not get it wet. (This is a very good idea for the point of view of health & safety, ensuring everyone watches their footing whilst having fun.) Our group could have been perfect. Yet at the end there was a ledge to climb up onto, where our first person promptly put his rock-hand down to steady the climb up, getting his rock wet in the process. Whereas I grew up in a house with squeaky floor boards and a family that wake up to anything- I've got my ninja walk well practiced.

Our next obstacle was a medium sized water fall.
Task 1: don't end up in the super deep hole at the top- our guide jumped in to show us and disappeared for enough time for me to think we'd lost him. He returned fighting for air. Yeh, I'll stay clear of that one.
2: Bomb off it! I can do a decent bomb, hurtling off and drenching the caves with my splashing, getting a jovial laugh from the guides.
3: Crawl under the waterfall! This wasn't easy, the ledge under was narrow and the water thundered inches above me. Honestly couldn't help but make a joyful WHOO! when half way through.

We carried on to a junction where it was time for hot orange squash and Whittaker's chocolate. Nomnomnom. 

From here a nice, big, well worn tunnel branched off to the left. That wasn't our turning. We were going ahead. Through the tiny little hole through which the stream was escaping. I got down on all fours and began to crawl, moving through the water, along some tunnels, and straight into a waiting camera!



We met some eels whilst in the caves. The first we met was slightly tame. They'd fed Cecil in the past, giving him little bits of meat, and now he comes to splashing on the surface. He's been there a very long time. There are a few further along. Eels are territorial, so one will push out another, apparently often with replacements being a similar size, making it hard to know how long each eel really has been in its personal chamber-pool. They start off in life in the oceans around Tonga, coming to NZ where they swim up stream, occasionally getting into the caves. They aren't the evolved, albino varieties that some places have. Just normal, smart, vicious, cute, tasty, eels. 

The eels we saw were about 2 feet long and about the thickness of my wrist. They have had bigger ones though. We came to another waterfall, this one flowing against us such that we had to step up onto it. Here someone had once put their hand on a large "log" only for it to swim off. An eel at least 6 inches in diameter resting after trying to go further up river. Probably 2 metres in length, maybe more. Pretty rare though.

We got a group photo at the waterfall.



"Left Right Left Left, and don't go down the big hole, OK?"
"Left Left Right Left, don't go down. OK."
"No. Left Right Left Left, No hole."
"Left Right Left Left, no extra caving, scream like a little girl if lost. OK."
I was first into the little labyrinth, crawling along. It was made easier by the slight ware visible on the rocks. Though I did have a moment of starring at the big hole. Where does that go? Then someone bumped into the back of me.

We had two large waterfalls to free climb. 3-4 metres each, with help from the guides to guide us (useful, eh?) up and over without being washed away. Yay, rock climbing! I miss regular climbing like I used to do at Uni.




Finally we crawled through a tunnel which had roots growing out of the bottom of the stalactites in the ceiling. Like little ice cream cones with a tuft sticking out of the bottom. This seemed odd until I realised how close we were to the finish. :(






The exit was a little hole in another forest. We had a group photo. It was getting dark. Past 9pm! We'd been down there a long time. Time for bed.

Friday 18 December 2015

Day 13: Hobbiton by day, Maori village by night!!!

Friday 18th December
Visiting Hobbiton
Staying in the Whare
Bus Waitomo to Hobbiton,84km,  Hobbiton to Rotorua 74km
Total Distance: 2552km

They're taking the Wingham to Hobbiton!

We went to the Shire!

We visited Bag End, and the Green Dragon, and the party tree!!!

Safe to say it was great. We had a large number of Middle-Earth fans on the bus, from a great number of backgrounds. 7 foot British rugby players became children, quiet nerdy Nords strutted about as if they belonged, and we all stood in awe. 

Despite all the other nerds, geeks, and fan boys, it was I who managed to answer all of the guides leading questions. (How do none of you recognise this as the place where Frodo meets Gandalf?!?! "You're late" "A wizard is never late, nor is he early, he arrives precisely when he means to")

There are all of the little hobbit holes, each showing signs outside of the profession of the hobbit within (cheese monger, potter, wheel wright, etc.)

I can't really describe it. It's HOBBITON. It was so beautiful. Everything is looked after to minute details. They have washing on the lines. The gardens are kept to always look perfect and crops kept in mid-growth by swapping plants around. It's just like it looks in the films all of the time. I want to go again for more photos. I could get a summer job there. Seriously, just looking aft the plants and taking a few tours a day.

We finished at The Green Dragon, the village pub, where we were served a half pint (so sadly no saying "It comes in pints!) from the brewery. They make a pale ale, a nice stout, cider, and ginger beer. The pub, like all of Hobbiton, has a huge amount of detail, down to notes on the wall such as "workers need for harvest" and "LOST green cloak". Having said that, it did remind me significantly of so many lovely pubs in Yorkshire and Cumbria, particularly those up in the hills.

Hobbiton. Go see it. Maybe twice. It's great.

Or go to the Yorkshire Dales and the Lake District. Live there. It's great.


Moari Marae Stay!

There are a growing number of chances for tourists to see Moari culture. One of them I saw a week ago at Waitangi, and that was a great show, bringing the place to life, a reminder of the people and culture most effected by the treaty after its signing.

We were set to go to a larger affair in Rororua though. Tamaki was set up years ago by 2 brothers and their family to bring Moari culture, past and present, to life. It is hoped that this will help sustain the cultural heritage of New Zealand in the long run, whilst being enlightening, educational, and entertaining for visitors. Use it or lose it.

Over time there has been a growing interest in this cultural history leading to popularity of the project, large numbers of visitors, and even additional similar attractions in Rororua. But this is the oldest, the original, the best. (*biased source)

Most people go for the show'n'dinner option. Not I! No. Go big or go home. Let's learn about Moari Culture. 

The Marae stay option allows people to spend more time at the village, starting mid-afternoon and ending with a lovely breakfast the next morning.

We arrived to be met by a short formal greeting and invitation into the village, sung by one of our hosts. We were introduced to the Whare (Wh=F in Moari, so Fare. Translation: House), which has a carved exterior, with a head by the roof apex, the arm forming the roof, the hands the eaves, and the legs the walls. A Whare is a sacred place of safety and peace, away from the aggression of the world. To this end we were asked no to take any food or footwear in. These are part of the outside world and don't belong in a whare. Moari villages have a seperates place to eat, as well as a different place to hold political discussions.
I imagine keepin food and footwear out also makes keeping the place clean a lot easier!
Our whare was a long, clean, beautiful building. Along each wall stood many single beds, and behind them the walls were decorated with carvings of Moari Guardians. These carvings act to help tell the history of the people, as well as the mythology. The first Europeans called these guardian"Gods", seeing a non-Christian polytheism. In reality the Moari believed in one God who created all, including the guardians, who act like a cross between angels and the European pagan gods. Hence Christianity make a quick and simple transition into Moari culture, giving an identity to the highest God, whilst allowing the guardians to be retained. This has without doubt enabled the mythology to be retained.

Once our food had gone into the kitchen chiller and our gear was by our beds it was time for afternoon tea! There were biscuits and hot drinks, but the best thing was a deep fried bread, with clotted cream and syrup or jam. A bit like a doughnut, but round, the size of a small fist, to be cut in half to add sweet stuff. I hammered a few of them, getting my face nicely covered in cream and syrup as I did. So good. So good.

Moari was one of the things I struggled with when first moving the New Zealand. It's not a heavily used language, not many Kiwis speak it and everything is written in English if it's also in Moari. But place names don't often change, and as well as British names some farms, roads, towns and features have Moari names. What we learnt that afternoon would really have helped my pronunciation!

To the tune of "Stupid Cupid":
(NB Ng: Hard "n" sound, like a British tut. Wh:"f")

A haka mana para tawa ngä whä
E heke mene pere tewe nge whe
I hiki mini piri tiwi ngi whi
O hoko mono poro towo ngo who
A E I O U
U huku munu puru tuwu ngu whu

And that's the Maori alphabet!

Maori words basically alternate consonants and vowels, ends each word with a vowel, hence the word formation in the song. The words don't actually mean anything, but include all the consonants, vowels, and combinations, in the majority of Moari. It's taught to children at a young age, or tourists whenever they are prepared to make a fool of themselves.
There are also dance moves that go with it- which are the basis for the Macarena.
We would be performing A Haka Mana later that night for 200 people.

Next up was flax weaving. Flax fibre is extracted by removing all the green fleshy matter from one specific plant. The dry, light brown strands that remain can be weaved or platted into rope or string, later made into everything from rope, to bags, to baskets, to animal traps, to clothing. It's a very useful, important resource.
But you don't get much fibre from one flax leaf. We were given one each, with a small dried line in it where it had been bent. A mussel she'll was used to scrape from this point in with direction to scrape away the flesh. We were each left with a few strands of fibre. 
The Kiwi Experience bus has its own flax rope- a few hundred yards long now! We added our few inches by platting it into the end.

Moari games were designed to train the warriors who would protect the village in later life. Some where to train senses (Simon Says comes from a Moari game, training hearing and the ability to follow instructions), whilst others trained the body. We played two stick games, using broom handle like sticks, about the length of the traditional three-quarter spear (about 4 1/2 feet long) used by warriors.
The first game was a throwing games. There were words that I forget, sorry. Basically the routine went like this though.
Rules: Only the right hand may be used for both throwing and catching.
Physical injuries are expected.
Don't drop the stick!
Everyone has a stick, throwing them at the same time, catching at the same time.

Stamp stick
Lift stick
Throw to the person to your right
Throw to the person to your right
Stamp stick
Lift stick
Throw to the person to your right 
Throw to the 2nd person to your right

It took us quite a few attempts. You can't look where you throw, as you have to be watching to catch the stick that's coming towards your face. Plus the last movement requires one to ignore the first stick, catch the second, having just tried to pass your own stick to a different person from the last 3 throws.

The second game was slightly like musical chairs. Everyone has a stick. We stood in a circle. There was a word for right and one for left. Your stick was placed with one end on the ground. At the command your own stick was left standing as you ran to grasp the next one. If you didn't get the in time and the stick fell over you were out. Slightly fewer injuries than the throwing game.

Now was time for everyone else to arrive. We went round to the main village entrance where the coaches were arriving. Each coach had volunteered their Chief, and our little group had Cheif Garry. There was a full scale formal welcome. Two warriors came out of the village wielding spears to assess the visitors, jumping around, shouting, waving their spears in the faces of our chiefs, who did an admirable job of standing still, with hands empty and visible for the warriors to see. Having been declared safe the village chief came out. A peace offering- something from nature- a collection of leaves bound together, was placed before our chiefs and Cheif Garry pointed to. He keep eye contact with our host whilst bending down to pick up the offering, signally that we came in peace. With a shout the village gate erupted in song, as the warriors and women performed. We made our way through the gate up hill, into the small village used to demonstrate aspects of ancient Moari life to tourists.

Several small whares were positioned beneath thickly grown, tall trees, the earth about them packed down. We learnt about training techniques, fighting styles, musical instruments, flax and its uses, games, carving, tattoos, and finally the full show.

We were all gathered together and taken down to a large whare used for performances- theatre seats on one long side, a stage on the other. Here there was a more in depth discussion of village, warrior, and traditional life, as well as performances, such as the Haka and songs.

Then, finally, food!

The Hangi is an "earth-oven"
Dig a big hole, about 1 metre cube, placing the soil to one side. 
Light a fire in the bottom of the pit, covering the floor like a barbecue but bigger.
Place volcanic rocks in the fire. These will heat up and hold the heat. Non-volcanic rocks will split and thus waste the heat.
Take a large steel rack, line with tin foil, fill with meat, cover with foil and lower into hole. (Large leaves eg.Banana, were traditionally used, but foil's better)
Repeat with the vegetables.
Cover in wet sack cloth
Top off with the soil
Leave for 3-5 hours as the meat slowly cooks.

The Hangi was used to easily, slowly, cook a large amount of food for celebrations and festivities. They provide tender, succulent food with a smokey flavour. Tonight's buffet included chicken, lamb, stuffing, carrots, Kumara (sweet potato, a native to NZ) and new potatoes. There was also a few pieces not from the Hangi, including fresh fish, salad and the stodgy, slightly sweet, very filling, bread of the Pacific islands. On an all you can eat buffet. After only 1 1/2 plates I was stuffed. How is the food so filling?!? I should have been able to do way more than that! Well, I did get some Kiwi Fruit Pavlova, and some Kiwi Fruit Punch, as well. Kia Ora.

I should have mentioned Kia Ora before now.
Kia, say Quay, as in at the ports for boats.
Ora, say Order, take out the D, now, Or'er- helps one roll the R
It means hello, good bye, and thank you. And if someone says it to you, you say it back. There's not really a translation that fits such a versatile phrase. I guess in Yorkshire a head nod and "Good man/woman" might fit, but nothing in normal English.

"Kia Ora"
"Ki Ora"
"Want some cake?"
"Ooh, yes, Kia Ora"
"Kia Ora."
"See you at the pub tonight?"
"Sure thing bro. Kia Ora"
"Kia Ora!"

After dinner there were a few speeches, a couple of songs then...Us!

Our little tribe of 9 sang A Haka Mana in front of the seated crowd, performing the actions. We'd learnt Moari! A toddler's Moari, but I'll take that.

To finish we did the Haka. The 5 Chiefs present had been trained to do a proper Haka, but the rest of the men were encouraged to join in, so many of us did! There's a video out there somewhere of us performing a slightly ropey, but serviceable, Haka.

And with that everyone else left. We were in the village alone. With a hot tub and a cheaper bar. The next 3 hours was spent drinking Pinot under a starry sky discussing Moari culture, stars, how to whistle, animal noises, student life, and marketing strategy in the international Swedish motoring industry. That's a normal evening for me, some how.

We woke for a lovely breakfast of cereals, toast, marmite, fruit, yoghurt, and coffee, before being taken back into Rotorua.

A great night out, after a great day. 





Day 11: Cathedral Cove Kayaking by the Coromandel, and a trip to Hot Water Beach

Wednesday 16th December
Kiwi Experience bus from Auckland to Hot Water Beach, Kayaking around Cathedral Cove and the wee islands, then down to Hot Water Beach to burn our feet on the boiling water coming up through the sand.
Distance: Bus, Auck-Hot Water Beach 174km , Kayak, 6km, minibus, 10km
Total Distance: 2168km


This is my view as a write this in the early morning light of Day 12. Sadly I can't say this is my accommodation- we stayed in the huts- but it's a pleasant view all the same.

Yesterday began slightly early as we left Auckland, followed by a talk from the driver for all of us new guys. We then drove off, through Thames, a small agricultural town next to a river that had reminded Cpt James Cook of the other Thames, and up through the mountains.

On the far side of the mountains lies Hot Water Beach, a place where water descends through cracks in the rocks, down towards a channel of magma, to be boiled before ascending. This marvel of geothermal activity is what the tour came here to see, as did a significant portion of the country, it seems. We went there later in the day to find the place filled with people, each group with its own hot pool dug into the sand. Hence why a small group has gone this morning to see it after the tide had washed away all of the pools. I'm not going because I have a festive cold. And it's 5am. And I'm lazy.

But before all of that happened, yesterday afternoon I went kayaking! This time we were in proper tandem sea kayaks. There were 5 of us plus guide, and as the other 4 were couples I went with the guide. Which would normally be weird, but he has just finished his first year of veterinary school, so we had plenty to talk about. Also his grandfather used to farm the local area, including keeping sheep on a small island in the bay (having to transport the sheep via a small rowing boat), and used to own the tourist destination that is the Cathedral Cove, until he donated it to the Department of Conservation 

We paddled round towards Cathedral Cove with the wind and sea spray in our faces, bobbing over the coastal waves of the Pacific Ocean. On our way we passed through the shallows, running through gaps in the rocks and taking a detour into Lovers' Cave, a small sea cave with a miniature, romantic beach within. 

Cathedral Cove is effectively two beaches, joined by a huge hole in the rock, hence the name. There is a small waterfall and cave on the eastern beach, and a large number of cairns built by tourists on the other. Atop the cliffs hang a myriad of trees, the odd one having crashed into the sand leaving behind the skeleton of a tree on the shore. 

The Cove and cliffs were formed from volcanic debris, including pumice and ash. The Rock is relatively soft, and is steadily being warn away by sea salt having an effect similar to the freeze-thaw effect. As sea water splashes on the rock it deposits droplets containing salt. The salt forms crystals, which expanding, owning gaps in the rock. Over thousands of years this multiplies into an effect that gives he rock a honey comb appearance and forms the caves.

We walked around the cove, meeting up with the rest of the tour group who had walked here. Our guide made us ridiculously good mochas on a travel stove and we planned our next move. Further around the coast is Sting Ray Bay, but it's the wrong season to see them. There are more islands further out, part of the Nature Reserve that makes up the area- New Zealand's oldest and smallest ocean nature reserve. However the wind looked to be picking up so our guide didn't think we'd make it. Instead we could use the sail!

We formed a raft, the central kayak holding us side by side. The outside kayaks each got a corner of the large black sail, the people at the back hoisting it on their paddles. The sail filled with wind, ready to push us forth...and then died. Islands it was!

The sail was packed up and we set off for the closest island. A pair of Canadian girls were struggling with their craft, so the guide and I tied a line to their prow and towed them out to sea. Out on the ocean stood the large edifices of rock, topped by trees, now maintained as nesting sites for birds. We saw a number of cormorants, but no little blue penguins. We paddled through a hole in the rock before heading back to our starting point.

As we left the guide pointed out the shape of the island to us. Hundreds of years ago a chief travelled by canoe through the area. He looked at the island and decided it looked like his nose. In Maori tradition if a feature looks like one of your body parts then it was created for you. Thus, when his tribe agreed that it did look like his nose, he climbed to the top and claimed all that he could see for himself. The terracing of a local hill can still be seen where he build his fortified village.

After kayaking we went to Hot Water Beach, burned our feet, then came back to the hostel for fish n chips, a bottle of local Chardonnay, and some Tim Tams.

Day 9 & 10: I'm on a boat! Sailing, Kayaking, and then back to Auckland

14th & 15th December
Day 9: Sailing around the Bay of Islands, had lunch on a beach and went Kayaking around some of the coastline, which was BEAUTIFUL. 
Day 10: Waitangi Treaty grounds, the birthplace of the nation, before leaving for Wellington
Distance: Boat 30km?, Walked to-from Waitangi 3km & Bus 227km 
Total Distance: 1978km


Day 9
She's A Lady is a 50 ton cruising vessel that takes people out into the Bay of Islands for a day of sailing, kayaking, snorkelling, swimming, hiking, lunching, and chatting with the World's Coolest Skipper, Cpt Dave from Miami, now of New Zealand. He's so chilled out yet so knowledgeable about boats and the Pacific Ocean, and with the accent from Wayne's World most of us just spent the afternoon listening to him talk about his amazing life sailing other people's super expensive boats, hunting local pigs, and making moonshine. 

Anyway, less about the amazing Dave, more about the amazing me.

The wind wasn't great in the morning and we had an island to get to, so at first we started out motoring along with the engine. But the main sail was put up.
"Why do we put the sail up?"
"Erm...cos it's easier if we do find wind?"
"Yes, but the number one reason is because it looks cool, and that's the most important thing!"

I took to the wheel half way to our island, looking after the boat as Dave went to do other things. The sun was shining, the water was clear, the islands, as ever, spectacularly beautiful. We went slightly off course to have a quick look in at some small blue penguins, the world's smallest penguin which lives around New Zealand. There were also a few cormorants happily fishing in the waters, or relaxing in the sun.

We eventually set the anchor down in a small bay with no one else around. The kayaks were thrown overboard and Lydia (another Kiwi Experience traveller who's from the southern UK) and I took them over to the coast. Here we paddled around the outcrops, spotting more birds, a few fish, splashing about in the 1metre of swell (trying to keep of the rocks!) and bravely/stupidly/luckily working our way into then out  of some delightful caves and inlets.

After some time we took the kayaks to the beach for other passengers to explore the waters. We headed off around part of a cove by foot, before returning for a sit down before lunch. Dave brought a basket out of the boat. Others arrived from their snorkelling or walking across the island to another beach. Freshly made hefty healthy sandwiches of ham, egg, lettuce, tomato, carrot, mayonnaise and cucumber in multigrain bread appeared, with kiwi fruit and afghan biscuits to follow, accompanied by lemon squash. The sailing boat bobbed in the clear blue water as we sat amongst have the trees above our private golden beach, the sun filling the sky as a refreshing light breeze played at our backs. No one said a word.

We returned to the boat via a smaller motor boat. We unfurled the main sail and jib sail, catching the growing breeze. At a steady 5 knots we quietly, leisurely, peacefully, made our way back. Dave answered questions about the area, sailing and other boats. He explained about the leisure craft in the Bay as well as the rest of the Pacific, most of which he has seen, it would seem.

We left the boat feeling very relaxed. 


Day 10
The bus was due to leave at 2:30pm, giving us a morning to use as we saw fit. Many others went to the beach, but I knew I simply couldn't miss out the chance to go to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds.

The Waitangi Treaty made the Maori citizens of the British Empire and New Zealand a(nother) colony. It "protected" the Maori from the French and Catholic missionaries who were marauding their way across the Pacific and gave the crown some control over the lands, such as bringing law to the lawless whalers settlements.

There's a huge amount of debate about the treaty. I'm sure I've covered it before nearly a year ago. Let's not do it again.

As a resident of New Zealand (I have a NZ Driving License!) I got $10 off entry and a free tour or "cultural experience". I can live without a tour, but the CE sounded good, and it was!

The the top of hill where the treaty was finalised and the first signatures signed sit two houses. One is the old European house, now a museum. The other is a large, decoratively carved Maori Whare ("Fare", Wh=F, Translation: House/Hut/Hall). Here we sent Cheif Gregg of Cristchurch forward as the visitors representative, to face off against the warriors' welcome. Once it was understood we came in peace we removed our shoes and went inside. The Maori Cheif made a speak in both Maori and English, followed by a grateful thank you speech from our Chief Gregg. We were taken through a history of Maori music, singing, dance, and warrior training. It was great and I'm very glad I went but it's difficult to describe it all. You'll just have to come here and see it yourself. 
Or search YouTube. 

I had a quick walk through the small forest of native plants planned and planted by a Victorian, english botonist. At the bottom of the hill by the sea stands a long house. Here are housed the 3 ceremonial war canoes built and subsequently used for each Waitangi Day celebration. When Queen Liz visited in 1990 she asked to make the main, longest boat a "HMS" vessel. The Captain agreed, so the Royal Navy has a Maori War Canoe in its ranks! W might not have the world's biggest navy anymore, but we definitely have the coolest.

I'm now back in Auckland, drinking tea and in need of a shower and a bed. We're off to Hot Water Beach tomorrow. I'll let you figure out what's special there.

Monday 14 December 2015

Day 8: Cape Reinga (Most Northerly Point on NZ), Sandboarding, and 90 mile Beach (Dead whale too)

Sunday 13th December
Tonto and I took a bus tour north to the top tip of NZ
Distance: 450km
Total Distance so far: 1718km

The morning began at 7am with a bus full of young people and a middle aged Australian who was hard of hearing- who had his dog with him! She was very well behaved until told not to be and let off the lead- at which point she'd travel up the bus for pats and cuddles, or to run in the surf when at the beach. 

We drove north through numerous townships mostly of historical significance. There was the site where the Waitangi Treaty was signed, the first place Pakeha organised to settle land in New Zealand (they were missionaries from Australia), the resting place of the Rainbow Warrior, Green Peace's ship sunk by the French, and we took a walk through a reminent of native forest using a board walk through the swamp built for Queen Elizabeth II for her 1990 visit. Our driver was amazingly knowledgable about the area and told us more than I can remember.

I'm not going to tell you a great deal about these places at present because
A) Wikipedia has a far better memory than me, as well as maps.
B) I can't spell all the place names
C) Happy Hour starts in less than an hour

I'll try write something interesting about it all in the future, but for now let's move on to Cape Reinga

At the tip of the North Island sits a little squat light house watching as the Pacific Ocean crashes against the Tasman Sea. The depth of the Ocean gives it a deeper, darker, hue compared to the lighter, greener, sea.

This place is vastly important to Maori culture. From here the spirits of the deceased are released from their mortal body. As a sacred place no food is allowed (as its disruptive to Mana, the spiritual force of Maori mythology).

The day wasn't as bright as one might have liked, but the rain receded enough to allow for some nice photos and a chance to wander around. 

We then moved on for lunch, going to a small cove which was slightly sheltered and inhabited by a roving pack of seagulls. The main road is high up on the ridge of the peninsula so driving down is slightly hairy in a large coach. Coming up wasn't much better, made worse by our having to swerve around a car parked up to help a group- who's rental car had taken a tumble of the edge of the road! It had flipped, but everyone looked well. We got waved at but if the coach stopped on the hill path it wouldn't start again. Therefore we carried on until the driver had radio reception. He contacted head office, the police, and the Department of Conservation. Someone else was able to help them and we carried on.

Just before 90 mile beach are ridiculously huge sand dunes. Probably about 50m high, may be more. 
These we climbed holding onto sand boards (body boards/mini surf boards/ironing boards without legs), before throwing ourselves onto them (keeping faces over the board, not in the sand) and hurtling down, using legs that are off the edge for "control". It's sledding for people who like sun, surf, and sand in your eyes. Swimming goggles or those goggles racing horse riders wear would have been very useful. I just had my glasses.

After 3 attempts our time was up. We patted the sand out of... Well, everywhere... And got back on the bus. After a short drive DOWN A RIVER we got onto the beach. Here, having found a spot the driver was sure wouldn't swallow the coach, we were released, as was the hearing dog. She charged off ahead of us all, storming the waves and scaring young women. The tide was going out, but the waves slid lazily out before crashing back in a far greater distance than the most keen travelers were prepared for. The screamed and shouted as they ran back in, trying to not get swamped, the dog deciding it was a great game.

The beach runs for 90 nautical miles, charted by Captain James Cook in his notes as the "90 mile desert", the beach being so big that from his ship he couldn't see its depth inland. We drove along the 55 (land) miles, at one point taking in the astonishing sight of a dead beached whale. It landed there a week ago and was significantly decomposed at this point. Shortly the Department of Conservation and local Maori will have a ceremony for the Whale. The bones will be taken for ceremonial purposes. The soft tissues will either be buried or allowed to feed the local wild life.

Finally we stopped off at a local "Fush n Chips" shop for the usual fresh fish. Similar to Britain, but fresher fish, smaller (manageable), portions, and far cheaper.

Tonight we'll have some R&R, then tomorrow I get a lie in, before going sailing at 9am.


Friday 11 December 2015

Day 7: Bay of Islands & Dolphins!

The team taking the Kiwi Experience bus to Paihia, then a boat around the Bay of Islands
Distance: Bus, 227km, Boat, 60km?
Total Distance so far: 1268km

Today we began bright and early at 6am for a 7am bus. Well, I did. The teenagers mostly stumbled out into their equivalent of midnight. 

We drove north, stopping off at a waterfall, before moving on to Paihia (beautiful place in Maori), a small town next to Waitangi, where the treaty that birthed New Zealand was signed, giving the Maori protection from both the French and the most ruthless land traders, in exchange for which they became part of the British Empire (mildly ruthless land traders)

Paihia sits amongst the Bay of Islands, an archipelago of numerous islands on NZ's east coast of the long stretch of land coming off its north west coast. The islands are surrounded by the Pacific Ocean.

Thus afternoon's activity was Dolphins! 

The trip I went with was set up for allowing swimming in the ocean with wild dolphins. However they, and companies like them, have 2 problems. It's an Ocean and the dolphins are Wild. Neither are required to play ball. Today we did find some dolphins, so I do have footage of them playing amongst the waves. They were amongst rougher waves though, such that we weren't allowed off to swim. :(

We then went on to try find more dolphins, as wee several other boats amongst the islands.cwe therefore got a trip through the archipelago, including a stop off at the cafe on the largest island.

In this island work continues to remove all the invasive predators, allowing bird numbers to increase. It seems to be working as the air was filled with the sounds of birdsong.

We returned to the hostel afterwards. Tonight there is a barbecue here, which will save on cooking!

Tomorrow we're going up to NZ's most northerly point, the Cape, to see where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean. 

Thursday 10 December 2015

Day 6: Joining Kiwi Experience with a Kiwi Experience

Day 6, Friday 11th December 
T avelling on the Kiwi Experience bus tour
Rotorua to Auckland
The whole team, plus a new bunch in the KE tour bus
On our way towards Bay of Islands and NZ's most northerly point
Distance: 229km
Total Distance: 981

I left not too bright and early from Rotorua, catching the KE bus going north. There's a random bunch of people on here from all over the world (still lots of English & Germans though). 

Had a good chat with a few before we dropped in at a large Kiwi hatchery. It was advertised as the place where one would get the closest experience possible with a Kiwi. I slightly take issue with that- there's a Kiwi in Napier Aquarium where they have a hatchery. The hatchery isn't on public display, but they do have a Kiwi. There's also a one legged Kiwi in Wellington Zoo- not sure why they haven't given him/her a prosthetic, I'm sure I know a couple of people who could. (Mammal-like bone structure too, including marrow, unlike most birds. Easy as. I'm sure they have a reason, Wellington Zoo has good Veterianry facilities.)

What I will say for the nursery near Rotorua though is that it's the best. The kiwis they have are in excellent enclosures and seemed much more lively than the others I've seen. (Napier Aquarium deserves more funding and Welli has one leg.) The hatchery and nursery were also great to see. 

The mother kiwi can lay 2 eggs per season, but each egg is HUGE. They are the equivalent of a 35lb baby fo a human (5year old child). 
After birth the father takes over (monogamous, so daddy and mummy share a territory for life), and sits on the egg for 80 day. This is how they find the eggs- the fathers are tagged. If he stays in one spot for a long time that's probably an egg. 
Naturally, at this point, the fathe leaves. The chicks squeaks and scratches its way out of the egg (no egg tooth) over the course of a week, making lots of noise for predators to hear. It quite often sleeps for long periods during the process. Each chick has an internalised yolk sack that acts as a feed source for 2 weeks before it needs to eat (a chicken's lasts 24 hours), giving it long enough to mature. Yeh, it's not long- they come out as mini-adults.
After all of this the wild survival rate is 5%. Not really enough. 
Ferrets used to kill 40,000 kiwis per year
There's 75,000 in the wild.
Time to bring in the humans.

Having tracked down the sitting kiwi the egg is retrieved after the fath has left.
It is brought into the hatchery where the shell is checked for cracks and the size of the air sack in the egg is measured- this indicates how old the chick is so gives a guide to how long until hatching.

After this the egg is placed in an incubator. Most eggs go in the large one that does everything- temperature control, air flow, turning the eggs. Similar model to that used to raise farm chickens, but for bigger eggs.
Special eggs that there might be concerns about are placed in slightly older models- still temperature controlled, but the turning has to be done manually. This means someone has to go and look at the eggs and check they are alright.

Eventually the chick with start to hatch. Most birds have an "egg tooth", a little toe bit of extra beak to break open the egg shell. Kiwis don't . They just have to hammer their way out of the egg, between sleeps, over the course of a week, until they emerge fully feathered, with giant feet and tiny wings. (Occasionally birds need help put most are allowed to hatch naturally). They get a dab of iodine on their navel, just like lambs and calves.

The nursery weighs them and puts them in a different incubator for them to adjust to life and eat their internal yolk.

Once they are judged medically sound they can be moved further. They get fed a combination of Hill's Science Plan Optimum Cat Food, with mixed veg, fruit, wheat germ, vitamins and minerals, rolled oats, few other bits mixed in to a soft blend. Yummy.
It's more nutritionally sound than just giving them the kilos of bugs they would naturally have, as well as cheaper and easier that's growing kilos of bugs. Each kiwi gets a wee dish of the mix. Once it finishes its share (some get a little h lo to start them off) they get "desert"- a blend of live bugs! Don't finish your main, don't get to play with your other food. Rules is rules.

They keep track of weights to ensure the little balls of fluff are growing properly. 
After they're sure they can hunt and live in the wild properly they are released to a "colony". Whilst each kiwi has a territory, they try to keep them in a specific area. This enables them to keep track of the kiwis and allows them to only have to look after a certain amount of land (as well as making kiwi match making easier)

In total the process costs NZ$2000-2500 (GB£1000-1250), from collection to release. In the wild it takes about NZ$100 per kiwi per year. They live for around 20-30 years, so per kiwi it's not cheap. Hence many of the kiwis are sponsored by companies. These sponsors are allowed to name the kiwis...but this is before they know the sex of the bird. 
Like many birds these days it is possible to take out 1 feather and do a PCR DNA test to find out if he is a she or she is a he. The test is becoming cheaper, but it's not very fast, taking weeks to get the results back. Hence Miss Steven and Miss Dugg.

At present they have 2 adults on site, a mating pair. Both very lively in their little forested enclosure, running about diggin for grubs and pruning themselves.

Tonto found one to ride into battle

We also had a wee drop into Matamata. The town used to be famous for horse breeding. With the filming of The Hobbit, however, the Hobbiton set was rebuilt nearby. This has given the area a tourist trade, to the point that they've had their information centre converted into a thatched cottage by Weta Workshop.

Tonto made a friend inside


Now I'm on a quiet, sleepy bus heading towards Auckland, watching Wedding Crashers, as the weather closes in.

Wednesday 9 December 2015

Day 4 & 5: Rotorua, Redwoods, Buried Village & Exhausting Myself

Days 4 & 5, Wednesday 9th, Thursday 10th,December
Rotorua, The Redwoods, and The Buried Village
Myself & Tonto (Walter Knitty's just too big for some of these journeys)
Walked about 40km (25 miles) - thankfully I could carry a light bag
Total Journey Distance: 752km
The plan: 
Walk to The Buried Village- a cross between Beamish (a Northern England Must See) and Pompeii (an Italian Must See)
Walk, in part, through the Redwood forest park

I'm writing this on the afternoon on my fifth day. I just couldn't find the energy last night. I could barely walk. So amazing to have a soak and a shower afterwards. I wasn't much better this morning, so this has been a bit of a lazy day. Just talking to whoever was around the hostel. I deserve it. Yesterday was nuts.

I guess I should have felt warned when I managed to, in the rush to get out of the door, forget the green stone pendent I was given by the practice as a leaving present.



Although, maybe I kept some of the effects. I was certainly determined. I did get plenty of walking in. Just not so sure how good it was for my short term health.

The day started at the hostel at 8am. The Buried Village site is 15km away by road. With a small day sack I can easily cover 30km in a day. In theory I would be there by 11am, before the day became far too hot.

The first few kilometres I steadily got into my usual rhythm wandering along watching out for traffic and ensuring I was alongside the correct highway.
I turned onto the road that lead to the Village. There was the entrance to the redwood site. 1km to the centre and start of their tracks. I had a memory of one route that would take me across the are to a place far closer to the Village. But if I was wrong I could be doing another 2km, and if I was right, with hills etc. I'd be doing another 3km minimum- but under the trees and through the forest. I might also lose and hour. I could still be at the village for 12 though, that was fine.
The route does have a proper name. Something long and in Moari which, for better or worse, I can't pronounce, spell, or remember. But it had black arrows showing the way, so I just called it the black route. Simple.
The problem was that there was work going on in the forest.
"Please ask inside about diversions"
Pay, no fear,I was just wanting to follow the road, I'd work it out.

The first 10km were up and into the forest. We travelled through a region filled with giant American redwoods, brought over for the timber industry,but here left as a recreational park, mostly for mountain biking. There are also fern trees and bushes interspersed, giving the place a "Jurassic Park" feel. If anyone remembers the Walking with Dinosaurs episode about the baby sauropod this is that landscape.



Up and into the hills, the vies we distupted by the trees, until we got deep enough to were vast swaths had been felled. This was the commercial area at the back of the park.

Eventually I descended and reached the roadside. The path was due to follow the road further, in theory. I should have gone with the plan and followed it. Yet it wasn't obvious, and there was the road. There were a lot of cars on it, maybe I could hitchhike?

I've done a fair amount of road walking in the past. I don't generally encourage it due to the dangers.  There are a few rules to make it safer, though.
Keep as far off the road as possible. 
Keep yourself aware of traffic, and get out the way! Especially big stuff.
When walking round a bend walk on the outside. Your more easily seen and people tend to drive towards the inside of a curve.

The forest walk, whilst nice, hadn't given me a short cut, or a decent time. It was 11am, the sun was hot, I was hungry, and I still had 12km to do. I fished out one of my small burger buns, a cold sausage and a boiled egg. Not much of a sandwich but it hit the spot.

Right. Hitchhiking. People still do it here. People on highways with too much time and too little cash. People just trying to go somewhere else. Successful people doing it either look sensible or have a low cut top and sweet smile. So yeh...
After 6km I'd given up and had my kindle out, reading the last of my Harry Dresden novel. The trees had grown closer, the traffic less, and my legs were in auto. I sipped water from my bag and hammered along.

 Reached the Blue and Green lakes at about 12.30. There were a lot of families splashing about, having fun. I was knackered. Why was I bothering? This wasn't worth it! Surely I would have had more fun staying in Rotorua. Maybe if I turned back now I could do more in the redwood forest, go have a sleep, have a drink with my feet up. I'd done enough for the day. I'd earned a rest.
"Buried Village 4km"
Sod it.

There were even fewer cars as I carried on, but more trees. I just keep going. Mindless, just carrying on.

"Buried Village 1km"
We can do this.

Where all the cool kids at.

"The Buried Village. Devonshire Cream Teas 10am-3.30pm"
Finally!

Have you ever sat on a train staring out of the window, only for when it stops to still feel like you're moving? Your eyes and brain make it seem as if everything is very steadily slipping past.
I had that when I'd stopped walking. Freaky. I must have been doing a very consistent pace.
I shook my head and sat down outside. 2 bread buns, a sausage, boiled egg, and an apple. A little bit of bread when to the friendly wee bird that cautiously came to say hello.

The Buried Village

In the year 1886 the most famous tourist attraction in New Zealand were the Pink and White Terraces.
I know, tourism on the other side of the world for the Victorians! Looking at some of their stuff they clearly didn't travel light either. Glad I'm not carting around half a dozen petticoats. One's enough for me.

The terraces were formed as hot, mineral rich boiling waters bubbled out from the volcano. The minerals were deposited as the water cooled, forming a series of terraces and small pools, not unlike a Chinese paddy field hillside. Tourists would start at the cooler bottom pools, working up to the warmer pools, then down again. Some items were pertained in the pools- there's a bowler hat someone left in a pool for a year in the museum. It's not unlike Mother Shipton's cave in Yorkshire- but the minerals are a pretty white or pink, not a rusty brown.

It wasn't to last though. On the night of the 10th June 1886 the ground shook and then exploded. The volcanoes heating the terraces had erupted. Rock and dust fell out of the sky onto the local village, destroying Maori and Pakeha buildings alike. Hundreds died via direct hits, buildings collapsing under the weight of debris, or from toxic gases. Many tried to run, or huddled together in larger Whares ("Fares"- traditional Maori houses). Some were successful- the main guide, Sophia, a half-Maori half-Scottish lady successfully sheltered many in her home.

It was all over by morning. Rescue parties were sent out, digging people out from the 2 metres of dust and mud up to 4 days after the event. Some were even deeper. Some too deep to rescue.

Initial reports proposed the the terraces had, in part, survived. This would at least mean the tourist trade could continue. Then the truth came. They were gone. Simply gone. The land had shifted, moved, flown. The lake had been altered, part of the mountains obliterated, and the terraces nothing more than a memory, other than a few chunks littering the land.

No more farming, no more tourism. Local Maori donated food, blankets, and even land to help their refugees. The Pakeha were not so lucky. Many went to find new work, but those who owned businesses were ruined. The insurance companies declared that no one was eligible for protection from volcanic eruptions so wouldn't pay out. Some items were retrieved, medals were awarded to people for bravery, but nothing prevented bankruptcy.

Vi Smith had begun a little tea room not far from Lake Tawera. She was effectively right above the original village. He sons, before WW2 began excavating the site, finding Victorian items, and them homes. After the war the excavations continued, and do to this day. They are steadily unearthing everything that had been left behind.

Thus, today, the tea room has a museum attached documenting the day the terraces were destroyed. The grandson of the Maori chief who saw the eruption guides some of the tours. Outside are a collection of the houses they have unearthed, including a few Whare and the blacksmiths. 

And finally, their waterfall.


Sorry, the rest of my photos are on my camera, which isn't as easy to move photos from right now compared to my phone.


Suddenly my day REALLY doesn't seem so bad

After my wander round, I'd missed afternoon tea. It was bang on 3.30pm and everything was shut up. I managed to find someone to fill my water though, then sat down for a little snack. Still had to get back.

So, I set off. I'd finished my book and wasn't in the mood to start another. I was getting tired. Very tired. Must have done 20km so far. I didn't have a great deal of food left either. I really wasn't in to mood to carry on. Why should I anyway? I could be back at 10pm and it wouldn't matter. I got to the Blue lake and had a lie down. Just a little nap, a sleep to help. The wind picked up. The clouds might have been a dark shade. No rain as forecast. Wasn't going to take the chance though. A cereal bar and I was off.

I'm not much of a music person. I like it, enjoy it, appreciate it- but I can never remember track names nor artist's names. So far I hadn't put in my earphones- the book was already an excessive risk when road walking. But without it, and keeping the volume down, I risked it. And I'm so glad I did! My legs got back into the rhythm. I was suddenly positive again, able to just keep going. We eve off!

So far along I noticed, as we passed a few redwoods 8km along, a little hole in the hedge. I pushed through and there it was, the black track that ran along the roadside! It had been so close throughout my earlier walk. Well, I'd missed this opportunity before, let's not do it again. Hearty pace, don't get run down by the occasional mountain bike, keep going. 

After several kilometres the road diverted off and a gully grew between it and the track. This must be a short cut around that, I decided. Keep going.

The gully grew. Some hills were added to the ensemble. Big hills. A ridge. A long ridge. Ah. I'd missed the turning I hadn't taken that morning. I was lost. And going south- I wanted to go west, over the ridge.

Suddenly I came across a black arrow. So, i was in the right area. But do I go with the track, or against it? Against was uphill and south. With it was down into the gully. I followed it... Into a turning circle for log trucks. The path ended. Must have missed a diversion too. Oops.

I heard voices further down the gully. Young guys playing on mountain bikes. Time to ask for directions.
I know men traditionally are supposed to be too proud to ask for directions. If I have a map I usually am. But when I'm tired, the sun is setting behind the ridge I might have to climb, and I have no idea where I am pride can go (rude words) itself.

As I walked down I noticed an older man put his bike down and walk over the lip of the land into the gully. He'd know where I should go. I walked towards him. A head appeared out of the bush, his wife pulling up her shorts!

I blurted out something akin to an apology, then turned around for a few paces, trying not to blush. She came up the hill, pulling a bike I hadn't noticed out of the trees.
"You look lost"
I tried to explain my position.
"My husband knows this place better than me"
Her husband arrived out of the bushes with their daughter. He did a fair job of explaining were to go. But it wasn't exactly safe.
"Go over this creek, then climb up that bike track. You'll find a clearing. You see that gap between those two trees? Yeh, that's the exit of a bit track. You'll know it by the massive jumps it has. Follow that up to the track. Then do down hill to the filtration ponds. Take a right, follow that, it'll turn into asphalt. Follow that until the cross roads, take a right, you'll come to the end of the road the redwood centre is on"
Simple, easy, slightly dangerous and tiring, but God bless that man!

I followed his advice. He wasn't wrong about the bike jumps. The last one was like two king size beds at 30' angles, separated by a gap the size of another king size bed. The rest weren't much easier.
His was probably more dangerous than the roads. I took the earphones out and kept to the edges. I wasn't so much worried about anyone hitting m- I'd be able to get out of the way. But suddenly seeing a random guy when riding a bike at 20+km/hr through a forest- that could lead to some serious miscalculation and I didn't want to see someone crunch into a tree because of me. Keep close to the trees, be ready to hide well out of the way.

Is that a hare? What's a hare doing here?
The little fluff ball looked up at me. I wasn't going to get any closer. It wasn't quite right though.
Then it started hopping off. But not like a hare does. Just on its hind legs, holding its front paws off the ground.
A Wallaby!
There's not many in the park- they eye released by accident from a private collection. Now a few live out their lives amongst the trees. And I'd seen one!

I got to the entrance of the track without seeing any crazy humans trying out the massive jumps. At the top I got a confused but caring look from two mountain bikers who gave me the same directions as before and sent me on my way. I was so close that I had to celebrate. More music, my last half bread bun and an apple. Oh, splash out, have the other cereal bar.

There were more people as I got closer, a few dogs, families, walkers, asphalt. Finally I was back down to ground level. I found the information centre. It was 6.30pm and only 4km back to the hostel. I fished out the last of my food to help me finish off. A raw carrot. I'm sorry, who packed this bag? Where's the Jelly Babies, or the chocolate? Weirdo.

Once bag I hammered through 2 bread buns and a giant bowl of last night's curry. At 9 the Irish lass who's in the dorm room invited me to the warm spa pool. Oh, so good for the legs. She chatted with the old American lady we shared the pool with as I allowed blood to leave my head to do good elsewhere. 

After a shower I stumbled to bed and passed out. It was good night's sleep.