Day 127: Grand Canyon

Sunday 10th April 

Waiting for the three in the helicopter 

Walking down into the canyon on Bright Angel Trail down to one-and-half mile lookout

Rain and wind on way back up

Hail as entered the art gallery first used as base to photograph the canyon

More hail as moved to the art studio which had a balcony for great views of the foggy canyon

Fog began to roll in as we stopped at the Bright Angle Lodge and Hoki House

Finished at Vermont's store as the hail and rain receded 

As walked to catch bus we passed the old railway station where a herd of deer were eating by the tracks

Hail and rain began again so rather than cook outside we went for Mexican food. Mmm, Chimichanga 

Evening by a very warm fire with some massive logs we got for free to burn, and a guide from next door delivering Jim Bean Bourbon to warm us up some more

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I'm not much of a one for flying over stuff. It's great and I'm sure others get much more out of it than I do. Yet for the significant cost and the feeling that I might as well be watching a video mean that it's just not for me. I'd rather walk it, drive around it, climb it, maybe even kayak down it. So when the other 3 from the group opted to fly I was going to go for a wee hike. As it was though they got an earlier flight that booked, as there was a space. This was lucky given the later weather conditions. And given the short time they'd be I just hung out chatting with our American tour guide. Once they'd returned we were off to see some of the park properly.

With the rules that govern the park our tour guide wasn't allowed to accompany us in the park. Go figure. He could give us advice and a plan though. Free shuttle bus, part of a trail into the canyon, then the rim.

The trail we took down was Bright Angel Trail, one of the oldest and most popular. It is possible to go right down to he river at the bottom. However this is requires an overnight stop by the river. The canyon is that deep- ascent takes a whole day. One can also join a mule train, hiring out a mule for the two day trip down into the canyon and back. Provided you can plan a year in advance, as that's how long the waiting list is.

Easier, less time consuming options include all of the various lookouts along the route. There are several of these points and they are advised places to turn around. Most have toilets, a shelter for rest and to eat, plus you can always tell people afterwards exactly how far you made it!

We began just before lunch time. The weather was a little cold but sunny. As we went down though thunder could be heard over the horizon and we got a couple of slight spattering of rain. This worried me slightly. There had been some discussion of going down to the Three Mile Shelter. We stopped for lunch at the One-and-Half Mile shelter for lunch. From here we could see cloud coming in as we got some great pictures and video of the worryingly tame chipmunks that had been trying to steal our sandwiches. Afterward we decided to just go back up. Which was a great decision.

One of the major issues they have with people hiking in the Grand Canyon is the inversion from normal hiking. On the hills and mountains people are forced to go up energy zapping slopes, either getting to the top or as far as they can before coming down, which can require more thought but far less energy. 

A canyon on the other hand allows people to descend first. Many keep going down until they are tired. Then they try to go back up. But they're tired. And going up requires so much energy. And they have none. So 500 people a year call the park authorities to be rescued.

We probably wouldn't have joined that statistic, yet once we did make it back to the rim the rain began to set in. Then became hail! We watched from the windows of an art gallery as the canyon disappeared in the cloud and the landscape became covered in hailstones. We made a dash for the art studio next door. After a few moments by the heater we ventured out onto the balcony. Here we could watch more of the canyon disappear as hail built up.

We carried on around this tourist village along the rim. Cloud built and receded, the hail hit in waves, and the air got colder. The historic Bright Angel Lodge is a large, old, establishment, with hotel rooms, a museum, bar, restaurant, and gift shop. It was very warm and filled with people like ourselves, sheltering from the elements. Needing to get a move on a the day wore on though we went over to the Hoki House. This was built a long time ago for tourists to look like an authentic Indian style house. Inside it is filled with things for tourists to buy, mostly made by local Native Americans. We were kind of hoping for a little history in here too, and didn't find much in the way of novelties we wanted, so went back out into the cold for one last stop. Vermont's is half museum half store. We had a quick look around their history of the Canyon timeline, but we were all becoming tired. 

We went to the shuttle bus via the old railway station. By this point the weather was muggy but improving. Hence we had a little time to take photos of the mule deer foraging in the bushes along the track. Later on the bus our driver would point out three elk by the road, and stop for a moment as we took photos. Finally though we made it back to our tour guide and bus- where the heating was turned up as the cold evening drew in.

A couple of minutes in the cold, wet, campsite it was decided tonight was a good night to go get Mexican food! We had a mix of foods, myself having a Chimichanga. It was the first thing I saw on the menu and my choice had absolutely nothing to do with the Deadpool movie, honest.

Day 122: Las Vegas! Guns! Buffet! Street Performers!

Tuesday 5th April 

Gun Range

Pool: The Tank of Sharks and Slide

All you can shovel in buffet

Downtown Vegas, ceiling videos, street performers

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Las Vegas- where you can do anything! It's the only place where one can drink on the street. They pay big money so that people can smoke indoors. They also pay big money so that no one will notice- ensuring air circulates quickly, drawing smoke away to keep non-smokers happy. There's also the concept of pumping extra oxygen onto the gaming floor to keep people awake longer for more gaming, as well as giving them free drinks and not having any clocks up so no one can see what time it it. Oh, and the casinos being laid out so that you get lost and can't escape. You can check out any time you like but you can never leave.

Our "do anything" for this morning was Guns!!! Discount Firearms offers a wide range of cheap packages of weapons which one can fire on their range. Most with very American, military, or movie names. It was an interesting mix of weapons, most highly illegal in Europe. I've fired shotguns, rifles, semi-automatics, and muskets before, so I wanted something new. The Special Ops package was for me. A handgun, small automatic, M4 automatic rifle, and a belt fed machine gun. Mwahaha!!!

The handgun was a wee 9mm, so not too much kick. Something new, and fun. It's only a little toy gun, why can't everyone have one?

The military automatics were new and cool- I've only fired semi-auto before so it was interesting getting to let rip. 

The belt fed monster was just that. Rip up the field with a hail of flying metal. Ridiculous, but when else am I going to get to fire something like this?

It's great but personally I'm with the Australian government who remade most of these weapons illegal. Having these sort of guns is insane. They're military spec. They're designed to kill with impunity. Equally handguns are easily concealed. The automatics are supposed to mow down enemy troops, or give you a better chance of hitting and killing them. Who the hell needs all of that in their house? It's fun and interesting as a wee day trip to a well controlled firing range but the idea people should have what ever they want freely in their house is stupid. And as a defense? Defense from what? The other idiots who've been allowed them and turned against you, or those who've managed to steal them from "good" citizens who were allowed them. Granted it's not impossible for illegal weapons to make it across the Mexican border, as well as there being many illegal weapons already in the states. But do you really need an automatic weapon to defend against any of them. Even a semi-automatic is terrifyingly dangerous. Even more stupid is the idea that all teachers should have them to stop school shootings- not because there will be more guns around schools but because teachers are by nature humanitarians. They would have to be in a state of insane panic before they would shoot a person- it doesn't, or at least shouldn't, come naturally to a teacher to shoot a person, especially not one of their pupils. What's more people in panic mode are the worst at hitting targets. Between that an the bullets bouncing around the room innocent pupils are more likely to get hurt than the shooter.

But then that's just a Yorkshireman's opinion. 

After being a Republican for a morning it was time for a dip in the pool. The Golden Nugget has a central pool called The Tank. This is not merely due to the whale watching but also because of the large tank that sprouts from the centre of the pool, filled with fish and a number of ugly looking sharks. It's a great sight, especially with the water slide that runs through the middle of the tank. We did this once- the queue isn't huge but one is going so fast as to never be able to notice the Sharks around you.

Eventually enough people cleared off the pool side recliners that we managed to get a seat. We had a few beers, I caught some sun that had been filtered through an ozone layer for a change, and read until I fell asleep. 

For dinner that evening we went to the casino's buffet. For $14 it all you can eat anything you can imagine. With free Coke. Sushi, meats, fried stuff, Italian pasta and pizza, various breads, salads, overly sweet puddings. Three courses later I felt like Monty Python's Mr Creosote. Lovely.

We spent the evening wandering about the Fremont Experience. We watched the ceiling displays from The Doors and Imagine Dragons. The street performers all have to stand within specific black circles on the street, ensuring the place doesn't get too crowded with them. I think the circles used to look like poker chips, but they've been scuffed into darkness. A few costumed crusaders such as those we'd seen on the Hollywood Boulevard were present, alongside an ancient Elvis, and showgirls/strippers young and old. A number of acts played the drums. We saw one excellent duo playing the electric cello- even bought their album which we'll play on the bus at some point. 

Further down we exploded the lands of darkness. After the Fermont Experience area of eternal light comes an area which still has some life to it. Small clubs, casinos and motels. The thing to see though is the Container Park. It's an American versions of what I saw in Christchurch- a small shopping centre made out of shipping containers, of the frames of them, unlike Chrischurch this one had two storeys, with a balcony made of and supported by the steel frames of containers. There's even a playground based around shipping containers with climbing frames, a "tree" house and towers made of upended containers. 

Outside was the show piece for the park, though it wasn't made of shipping containers. A welded sculpture of car parts and gas lines formed a 20 foot long, 10 foot high preying mantis- this fires burning from the tips of its antenna! Fires that were brought into life in time with a song, bursting forth as giant scorching flamethrowers! We felt the heat of them from the other side of the street. It was ridiculous, amazing, mesmerising. So very Vegas.

Day 124: Angel's Landing, Amazing, dangerous hike, The Human History Museum

Thursday 7th April 

Early cold start

Shuttle bus

Hike through scrub, switchbacks, onto ridge.

Scrambling with chains along narrow rocky crest, deadly cliffs on either side

Up onto the top, getting a 360' view of the park

Climb down as temperatures get increasingly hot-lots more people coming up in the midday heat

Buy a National Park Passport

Lunch and nap time

Human History Museum/ propaganda/ over the top American dramatisation of the park video

Australian style burgers

S'mores by the fire

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Being just before sunrise and in a canyon it wasn't too warm in camp at 6:30am. For once I had my long trousers on, a thermal top, a couple of layers, and my light rain jacket. The reason for our early start was Angel's Landing- the best hike to do in Zion National Park, so long as conditions are perfect, one is fit and healthy, and you've no fear of heights. It's a little bit dangerous. 7 people died on it in the last 10 years. Good job the weather was looking good!

We caught the free shuttle bus through the park. A decent number of people were also up and about- not peak numbers, but enough to fill over half of the bus. On the hike we'd be with other people, but not surrounded as we would have been had we gone later in the day.

We started in the brush of the valley floor, taking a bridge over the Virgin River and followed the concrete path through this scrub. Slowly we rose up to see the meandering river and thin trees below. The trail ascended along the valley wall towards the point where Angel's Landing meets it. 

Angel's Landing is a part of the edge of the valley which has not been pushed back in the same way that the rest of the valley wall has been. Thus it stands near to the centre of the valley, a little way down from where it broadens out. It is flanked by sheer cliffs and only remains attached to the walls by a thin ridge of rock. This must be traversed to get to the summit which offers spectacular 360' views of the park, looking down along its length and up towards its beginning. The steep cliffs either side of the access ridge, as well as the narrowness of the ridge itself, not to mention the old weathered sandstone one is standing on, are reason enough to not try this hike/climb in anything but perfect conditions.

We climbed into the gap between the ridge and the valley wall, finding a cold little valley with the path steadily going up. After a little while it cut back on itself giving access to the switchbacks that have been built to enable a slightly easier climb to the top of the ridge. After about 20 turns we were up onto an open area of sand and bushes. It was getting much warmer now so we joined many others in removing layers and preparing for the second half of the ascent. 

The paved trail gives way to a warn estimate of a path on the sandstone, with a little guidance and safety provided by a chain running at 3 feet off the floor. It's not all hands and feet work, but it certainly feels safer and easier that way.

We passed by our first point where the cliffs left and right dug in leaving only a narrow 3 foot strip of rock to walk on. I couldn't help let out a ne vous laugh. It's a long way down.

Between getting used to the sight of the drops of death and the ridge widening we got used to such issues. There were obese people, family's with young kids, people running the whole thing- if those idiots can do it, so can I! 

Personally, as someone who used to be heavily involved with rock climbing at university, I really enjoyed this hike. It was a slow, steady, yet fun and dangerous way to spend a sunny morning.

We all made it to the top eventually. The views were breathtaking. We just sat for a little while taking it all in. Photos were then taken, and our snacks unloaded for morning tea (minus the tea). Then the scroungers arrived. A few Chipmunks, tiny little animals, as well as a couple of squirrels, were skulking around the top of Angel's Landing. They wouldn't wait nor beg for anything. Instead they just sniffed around, darting under people's legs. I never saw one do it but no doubt they were looking for any scraps of crumbs we might drop. I imagine even a crumb is a significant meal for something smaller than my mobile phone.

All done and with the temperature rising we headed down. As we walked the numbers (and weight) of people climbing increased. I don't know how many managed to comets it that day but there were a multitude trying to get through the midday heat complaining bitterly whilst not even being half way up. It's good that they're trying and it's good that they're out- but its foolish to try something so hard in roasting heat with only a litre of water and a camera.

Back at the visitor centre I bought a National Parks' Passport. These are little booklets with information about the parks with a space to put stickers and stamps as one visits each location. My friend from San Diego, Sarah, told me about these and it seems fitting to try to mark what I do with one- even if we're only hitting a tiny fraction of the best parks.

Lunch and a nap in the sun for an hour before two of us decided to use our afternoon to check out the park's Human History Museum. Which was interesting. Lots of pictures, a few words in big font, that's the American Infromation Centre way, it seems. Also limited look into American Indian lives here- although their visits were limited at the time when Europeans arrived. We watched the 22 minute "orientation" video meant to introduce us to the park. It was written in a very American way- many many adjectives (like I wrote as a 14 year old before being reprimanded by my English teacher), simplifications of everything, concentrating on the beautiful aspects of the park, not on the facts of how it was formed or who has ever lived here. The formation of the park and the Native Americans only got a few lines of recognition during the whole thing. It was very entertaining and very American- so I enjoyed it as a tourist, but we'd never make anything so garish in the UK!

This evening's meal surprised and amazed our tour guide. We made Australian/New Zealand style hamburgers. Additions to beef burger and cheese include fried egg, beetroot, tomato, lettuce, mayonnaise and fried onions. We could have included pineapple if we'd had some. Instead a couple of us chose to add a little American hot sauce. After one everyone was struggling. With two we barely had room for s'mores.

Having invented the marshmallow, then invented roasting them on a campfire, some greedy, sugar-laced American invented S'mores. Roasted marshmallow with chocolate (melted by its hot friend) between two thin sweet crackers/biscuits. So sweet, so sugary. We decided, after two, that one was really enough. S'more S'mores are too much for our savoury palettes.

Day 123: Las Vegas Buffet Breakfast, Zion National Park, Emerald Pools

Wednesday 6th April 

Finally got a Buffet Breakfast in Las Vegas- like Christmas Day! Loved it.

Travelled through Nevada, Arizona, and into Utah (via state check point)

Into Zion National Park- a massively huge sandstone valley. Bigger than you'd believe.

National Park visitor centre

Shuttle Bus

Paved path up to Emerald Pools

Camping with American style tents

American gas cooker/lamp

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"All you can eat" "Breakfast" "Buffet" "$7" "They have smoked salmon"

I ate about half a fish. No brown bread, no cream cheese, just a little lemon juice and a fork.

The coffe was awful but orange juice was also free. 

And there was everything else too- croissants, bacon, 3 types of melon, something like a spring roll but filled with cream and covered in a strawberry sauce.

Problem with all you can eat is, when you've had the buffet last night too, you're not as hungry as one could be. So only one American sized plate for me, and I didn't even quite finish that.

But fear not! We're going hiking!

We passed through Nevada, a little of Arizona, and into the state of Utah. We were heading for the stunning Zion National Park- a valley formed as the Virgin River rubbed away at the raised sandstone Colorado Plateau. The cliffs, columns, and mesas left behind are unbelievably big. The rock is a sandstone laced with impurities, primarily iron, giving it the red colour, as well as its yellows and whites. The colour reminded me of Uluru (although the red there is from a covering of desert sand, the rock itself is grey). This felt more impressive though.

We parked up the bus just outside the park at our campground. Here we set up the tents we would be using. They are a modern version of those toblerone shaped tents all American movies and cartoons have. The sort I've never seen anywhere else. Being tents that will be carried in a trailer, not on my back, they were far larger and more robust than my usual accommodation. About 8feet long, 4 feet wide at the base, and nearly 5 feet in the centre. I could nearly stand up in it! Plus, with only four in our group, we have 14 sleeping/yoga mats to go around. Even sleeping on these rocks we should be fairly comfy.

We went into the park. It was fairly busy, but later in the afternoon at this point so becoming quiet. American National Parks are strange places after having been to the equivalent in the UK, NZ, and Australia. In all of these places efforts are made to bring people in and make the most of the space in an active manner. People hike, mountain bike, ride horses, go canyoning, swimming, rock climbing, camping, bird watching- it's a natural theme park for peoe wanting to go outside and make the most of both nature and their lives. People can go nearly anywhere in these places and are often invited to do so, within their own personal limits.

The Nationql Parks of the USA by comparison feel more like giant Botanic Gardens. To much an extent they seem to be a federal business enterprise. They advertise widely via being in to documentaries, movies, and drama series. 4th graders are given free access to the parks and at this young age taught how to respect the space whilst enjoying it. The majority of parks have good access roads (compared to NZ or Aus) making it easy for people to come in what ever transportation they have, including giant RV/mobile homes. With all of these people wanting to come visit the parks can charge significant entree fees- Zion was $50 for a day, $80 for a year pass. These fees pay for the Rangers- who are federal cops- advertising, signage, facilities, a free shuttle bus that prevents hordes of cars blocking up the roads, and maintenance of the park. With so many people, and to make access easier, the park only has a relatively small number of hiking routes. It is drilled into visitors to never leaver these paths so as to maintain these places, which is fair given what could happen if thousands of boots tore up the land every day. This seems very effective as the pristine wilderness creeps right up to the edge of the walk ways. Visitors are also made well aware that feeds animals is bad for everyone, as is any interaction with them. This doesn't stop the chipmunks and squirrels knowing that flaky granola bars and trail mix are liable to drop the odd treat around picnickers. Yet it also means that most animals don't view humans as any form of threat. Thus the big eared Mule Deer will happily stand grazing as the hikers walk by.

It's fair and reasonable that the National Parks are maintained in perfection and enable thousands to see such landscapes everyday.

But there's part of me that doesn't find it as fun as the wilderness of UK/NZ/Aus. There's a lot fewer people though so those 3 hikers per day probably aren't eroding the landscape on unpaved muddy tracks. Likewise emptying last nights stale beer or Coke onto some tree roots once a year is simply going to feed the local ant colony. However if a tenth of the Americans who visit these parks did such a thing the place would be over run with ants!

At first I wasn't too sure about the National Parks. They seemed too constrained and uneventful compared to other places. The purpose of them is different however, and it seems fitting that they are run as they are. A museum of North America's geology and a botanic garden rolled into one whilst trying to teach the public here how to look after a place. 

I just wish they'd take the messages of don't litter and look after the environment back into the city with them!

We made use of Zion's infrastructure that evening. Taking the free shuttle bus we went down to the start of the paved track to the Emerald Pools. These are comparative puddles, filled with green slime, compared to their namesakes in New Zealand. The walk was nice though, under a long waterfall, through woodland, over rocks, up cliffs. We even saw a number of the park's Mule Deer- small shaggy coated, big eared, deer, there were a few does and a couple of calves. We'd even see a mother and child pair carefully fording a shallow river later. 

That evening we cooked dinner on the gas stove. Light was provided by gas lamps attached above the gas tanks. In the days of electric lamps, especially solar ones, I feel like this is inefficient and a poor use for a fossil fuel. But this is 'Merica, and it's what they do.

At least we had marshmallows for the camp fire later on that evening.

Day 125: Bryce's Canyon, Cowboy Ranch

Friday 8th April

Hiking down into Bryce's Canyon, looking at Hoodoos

Cowboy ranch including steaks, fire, marshmallows, and s'mores

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Bryce's Canyon National Park encompasses what is technically not a canyon but an amphitheater. At the top of the miles of cliffs one stands looking out onto an ever decreasing gradient as the land falls away. The beauty of Bryce's Canyon though is not in a simple view out towards the distant mesas (the flat topped hills seen in every Cowboy film ever), but in the hoodoos carved by wind and rain that stand along the wall of the amphitheater and down to its floor.

Hoodoos are columns of the local sandstone left behind as the surrounding cliff erodes more quickly. They too are slowly eroding, but are left first as wide sand covered buttresses branching out from the cliff, then as the edges are sloughed of they become narrow ridges of rock. These are further washed by rain and sand blasted by wind, becoming thin until holes appear. Becoming larger and more numerous the holes, or "windows", join together, leaving the pillars behind. The wind smoothies these into increasingly rounded structures, each of unique design. 

The place is littered with hoodoos. It is like a petrified forest. We walked for 3 hours, first along the rim taking in the view, before descending down to walk amongst them. Our tour guide said that he always thinks they look fake. As if Disney Land had just built them all. It's too bizarre, too unusual, too unique. There's just so many of them, and they're so big. I can kind of agree with him. They're so strangely haunting. But amazing and beautiful and well worth spending the three hours exploring.

Then it started raining.

The late afternoon and that night were spent at a ranch. A cowboy ranch. They had the bulls horned skull over the gateway, wooden veranda with swinging doors, horses, amazing views, a barn to party in, everything. Even people in cowboy boots, cowboy hats, leather chaps with tassels, the accents, the works. We were given a steak dinner with potatoes, corn, American style baked beans and homemade lemonade.

It was great.

Except for the rain.

We got the tents up just in time for the heavens to open. And they did open. Within minutes we were hidden under shelter watching out tents getting battered downpour in the middle of a desert. I ran down and got the cooler of beer out of the trailer as firewood was brought in off the back of a quad bike. We watched the rain until bored and cold before retreating into the barn. A couch was dragged over to within a couple of feet of the fire and here we sat, hands and feet spread forth to soak up the heat.

A few marshmallows, a couple of beers, and we decided to forgo tenting for the night. All of our camping gear was hauled up to the barn and here we slept, by the fire, warm and dry, away from the storms outside.

Day 126: Horse Riding, Glen Canyon

Saturday 9th April

Horse riding American cowboy style on a ranch in Utah

Glen Canyon National Recreation Area

Glen Canyon Dam

Horseshoe Bend of the Colorado River

Navajo Nation- dance and Antelope Canyon

Driving down to the Grand Canyon

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"Do you want to go horse riding while we're at the ranch?"

"Hell yeh! Or mah naime ain't Buffalo Bill"

The rain gone we were up and packed early to take a pickup truck ride down to the horses. Our guide for the morning was an old cowboy rancher, complete with Stetson, chaps, and fine white mustachio. A coulee of us, myself included, got beautiful painted horses to ride (hair of tan and white blobs of colour arranged randomly). We were accompanied by two visitor who'd brought their own horses so as to ride in the valley by the ranch. They would only follow us down the road before going up on top of the hills. They were with us long enough for a chat though- turned out one of them flies drones for the Air Force! Don't mess with her if you what to keep your house.

We plodded along through brush and scrub, through little, dry, rivers (despite last night's rain) and into the valley. We passed an old Mormon house. There had once been 6 households living and farming in the valley. That was a hundred years ago and the house is now rotting, with a little graffiti and a selection of beer bottles to mark rowdy visitors. 

Down by the valley wall we'd see another sign of such visitors at a spot known as Break Up Point. A chair and enough ancient glass beer bottles to fill a transit van make the spot. Apparently the Cowboys used to get letters from girlfriends and wives telling them to leave the job and return home- or else the relationship was over. Yet it seems many stayed and drank away their sorrows.

There were a few other sights to see. The valley walls have a number of features that have gotte weird and imaginative names. Clearly some people have been out here too long. I struggled to see the wolf and the old Mexican. The cup cake was very clear though-an abnormally in the straight lines of the rock layers which looked like the classic picture of an American cup cake with frosting. 

The riding style itself was like I had done on the ranch in eastern Australia. This western style uses a saddle designed for long rides across country, making it more like sitting in a chair, with a fat pommel to hold onto. The stirrups were thick leather. As reins there were two cords. In Aus these had been seperate ropes. Here they were two leather strips tied together. Both were held low down in ones non-dominant hand. Turning as standard- pull right for right, left for left. Pressure with the offside leg helped too- left foot in a right turn, right foot in a left turn- helped too, which was mildly confusing given that I'm used to the other way round. None of it really mattered though. These horse knew what the deal was and just plodded along the trail without too much management. Except for preventing them from eating. I told Charlie, my horse, not to do that early on and he never tried again. Others in the group weren't so lucky.

After the ranch we headed over to the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area (like a national park but people with enough money are allowed to have fun). Here Lake Powell was created after WWII by the building of the impressively large Glen Canyon Dam. It's nearly the size of the Hoover Dam and provides power for the local states, whilst also saving up water for them. The lake itself was once advertised heavily as a place to come play with boats, and especially water skiing. 

Favourite Part of the Trip So Far:

Horseshoe Bend of the Colorado river

The Recreation Area spreads up the tributaries of much of the river. These have all carved out great valleys in the sandstone of the Colorado Plateau. The Colorado river is the main river though, and so has carved out the greatest canyon. And the Horseshoe bend is the most impressive section. A meander that looks to take the river a mile off course has left both a 300 m cleft in the rock with sheer sides, and a central rock that stands immovably above the river. 

It's just huge. I couldn't take it all in. We sat with feet over the edge eating lunch, then simply starred for a while. Ant sized people were in the bottom, a few standing on the shore, many more on rafts and speed boats enjoying the river. The all looked so tiny. Finally I tried to get some idea of perspective by trying to walk either side so as to see the edges of the central rock. A quarter of a mile either side I could just about see down onto the whole breadth of the river as it turned into the meander. It was breathtaking. 

I was out of time though. Arriving back at the meeting point a few minutes later it was worth it. Great place. Hopefully I've got some worthy photos.

In the little tourist town of Page we were in for two treats. 

We were on the edge of the Navajo Nation. This is to much a degree a nation within a nation. It is larger than the four smallest states combined, and even has its own police and laws- such as no alcohol being allowed in the nation as an attempt to stop the alcoholism that is prevalent in native people's the world over. There's not all that many jobs out here either, but, as well as mining and such there is the tourist trade. Some of them make native items such as dolls, musical instruments, and ornamental weapons which are sold in the shops. Others work as tour guides and some do impressive displays of native dance.

Treat one of the afternoon was a display of the Navajo Hoop Dance. Performed by young men as a courtship dance it encorporates the use of many hula hoops used in many ways to create different shapes and images. Anything from butterflies and birds to Cowboys and their horses are now included. The guy we saw was incredible. He could pick up his additional hoops from the floor with his foot, starting with one then ending with seven, creating new shapes and acts as he gathered each additional hoop. In the background traditional music played and the bells around his ankles. He was outstanding. Hopefully YouTube will have plenty of Navajo Hoop Dance videos for you to watch.

Next up from the Navajo was a tour of Antelope Canyon. This very narrow, tall, canyon was once used as a place to take the family for a picnic. It's is slightly damp and very cool, a welcome change from the heat outside. Then in the 90's someone arrived with a camera and began shooting some of the world's most sought after photographs. One even became the world's most expensive photo ever bought. Between the thin stream of light that sometimes comes from a over, the closeness of the space, and the colours of the rock I can understand why good photos have been made here. Not the world's greatest, but then I've not got more money than sense.

The canyon has been formed by water passing through a narrow crack in a wide barrier of sandstone. On either side of the barrier is a dusty, sandy, dry, river bed, used by the tour vehicles as a road to bring in tourists. When it rains here, most often, it is a thunder storm of biblical proportions. This can occur many miles away, but throws out enough water to fill the river bed in a flash flood, tearing out rocks and trees, and throwing them into the narrow crack. Between water and debris the crack has been warn away forming a channel which varies from 2-12 feet in width. One other factor in the beauty of the space is the variation in the cavern, both along its length and its height. The roof opens and closes, the floor height varies each year as sand is removed or settles here. The lower walls can be too narrow for people to cross whilst above us the upper areas can bow out into huge pockets. There's no order and no regularity throughout it.

At the far end our guide allowed us some time to walk outside the canyon, taking pictures of this end. He also entertained us by playing on his native pipe flute- an instrument that looks like a wooden recorder- before taking us back through and into town on the back of a Navajo tour company pickup truck.

It was dark by the time we got to the Grand Canyon, so that was my first sight of it. A dark void and a few local mini-mesas. More to be done tomorrow!

Day 121: New tour, Hollywood and Las Vegas

Monday 4th April

New tour group

Hollywood Boulevard 

In and Out burger

Desert

Las Vegas

Party bus

Casinos 

Nightclub 

Distance:

Total Distance:

Today started with somethings of a shock. I knew this tour would be relatively small- it's early in the American tourist season and there's a maximum of 14 people for this trip. Yet it baffles me to find that there were only 4 of us travelling from LA to NYC! Two Australians and two Brits, two guys two girls, along with an American guide. It's probably as good of a mix up as one would want, with all of us being around the same age and such.

First stop was Hollywood Boulevard. Granted I did it yesterday, but I put that to use pointing out all of the best stuff in the short hour we had there whilst our guide looked after the bus (not easy to park, nor easy to keep safe here). Whilst there we got to see the setting up of the red carpet and celebrity enclosure for tonight's world premiere of Disney's new Jungle Book. I hope that's on the plane when I fly out of NYC, looks good.

Afterwards (well, after scraping through LA traffic and getting on the highway to Las Vegas) we had lunch at In and Out burger. More Animal Fries, more over sized Dr Pepper, and other great burger. Lovely.

We crept across the desert, through areas of scrub, rocks, and fat, water filled trees. We weren't far enough south for the classical Mexican cylindrical cacti with fat arms. But there's still rattle snakes and scorpions about. Nothing as dangerous as Australia has though.

Late afternoon we got to Vegas, the Adult Disney Land. We drove along the highway looking out at the strip. Medieval/fairytale castles, the Eiffel Tower, a glass pyramid, Caesar's Palace, it was all there with lights and bling. We were further along in Downtown Vegas, staying at the Golden Nugget. From here we'd be able to easily (so long as we didn't get lost on the gaming floor) get out to the Fermont Experience- the local street featuring all manner of street performers, bars, strip clubs, music, restaurants, and the world's largest screen- the entire roof is covered in LEDs which play a video every hour during the evening. 

Being four we got two twin rooms which had a door in between, which turned out to be incredibly useful. We got an hour of rest and had a short look out onto Fermont boulevard, grabbing some food before heading back to prepare for the evenings entertainment.

Our tour guide had organised a "party bus". A bit like a minibus, but with music and the seats down the sides. Oh, and a pole, for reasons. We took a few beers with us and the bus driver showed us the greatest sights of Vegas- the fountain show at the Bellagio, the little white wedding chapel, the classic diamond shaped sign of lights of "The Fabulous Las Vegas", along with views of the famous casinos. 

Finally we made it to the casino where tonight's biggest party was. Our tour guide new one of the organisers, so he got us in straight away for free. It was a big place. A BIG place. Huge dance floor, giant wall of light and video behind the DJ, showgirls as standard, Stag dos as standard. There were a few bars outside but d been told they were expensive ($10-20 for a beer) and I wasn't in a mood to explore that aspect. We stayed for a little while then decided to leave. 

Through, erm, this door? Or this door? Maybe it's down here? Me being me I managed to get split off from the group. In the end I would find out that I had found the exit much sooner than they had, but had to walk home, whilst they took another hour looking around and shared a taxi back. I was tired and hungry, but it was a worthwhile walk. Our Casino/hotel was 5 miles away, at the far end of the strip and then some. This gave me a chance to walk the strip in the quiet morning.

The casinos are as shiny, well tended, and lit up as you'd expect. They were phenomenal and I'd love to come back one day for a better exploration. It was the areas between the casinos and between the main strip and our downtown area that shocked me the most though. So much of Vegas looks destitute. Outside of the main tourist areas where the casinos ensure everything is over the top levels of wonderful there's an economic and human wasteland. People living on the street. Empty lots where shops and restaurants should be. There will be the very occasional bit of random sculpture made from welded together car parts, but nothing more. It's a desert in a desert, with only the bright lights of the casinos as a sweet oasis.

When I got back the rest had also just arrived. They'd been worried about me-we really should have swapped mobile numbers!!! The Aussies went to go find food and I went to bed to rest my heavy legs. It was a good sleep in an excellent bed.