Showing posts with label beach. Show all posts
Showing posts with label beach. Show all posts

Monday, 28 March 2016

Day 108: Early flights then a day in Adelaide

Tuesday 22nd March

3:30am alarm, 4:30am shuttle bus, without food bag but with Tea
Flying Hobart to Melbourne, Melbourne to Adelaide 
Wrong J1 bus down to the beach, morning there
Tram into town with traveling Aussies 
Hostel, wee nap
China town
Russell Mall
Botanic Garden 
University 
River
Early to bed

Distance:
Total Distance:

What a day this was!

So, I started at 3:30am. I've learnt to wake an hour before the time I have to leave anywhere. Most people probably need half an hour max, but I need an hour. It takes me the first half to down about a litre of water and rehydrate enough to be human. This get me into the state where I can do sensible things like pack, dress, and find breakfast. I'd packed my bags enough to be able to drag them out of the room and finish up in the corridor. I can't stand people who mess around whilst others want to sleep. I'm not becoming one if I can help it!
One mistake I'd made, however, was forgetting that the kitchen is on lock down from 11pm to 6am. Not only "Boo hoo, no breakfast" but also all of my snacks, coffee, and vegemite were in there! Ah, crud. What about the Yorkshire Tea? Fear not! After the thieves of Tassie Backpackers my tea had been safely stored in my backpack. So I fished out some ratty cereal bars from my bags (always carry emergency supplies!) and had another litre of water. 
4:30am, shuttle bus
6:05am, fly to Melbourne (fell asleep for most of it but the nice man next to me saved an inflight breakfast for me)
Fly Melbourne to Adelaide- only a few minutes to change over, but my bag made it across too, and I got a 3rd breakfast on this plane.
Adelaide airport, get the J1 into the city.
"I want to get into the city. Is this the right bus?"
Airport information guy "Yes, here's a ticket, get on this bus"
"Ok, thanks"
On the bus "So you're going to the beach too"
Ah, crud.

Turns out I'd got the wrong bus and was on my way to the seaside township of Glenelg! Which was lovely, actually. The sand was white and the water clear. I'd have loved to have been able to stay there longer. Taking the opportunity I wandered up the pier where numerous people were fishing whilst a small group next to it tried to learnt to surf without any waves. The buildings are all sandy-coloured and small playgrounds, kiosks, and sculptures appear along the shore at irregular intervals. 

I made my way to the tram my bus driver had told me would take me into the city. On my way a young guy wearing a school uniform asked me if I would be prepared to take part in a survey- obviously a school project. Given that I had nothing else truly pressing I decided to go with it.
"So, erm, what brought you to Glenelg today?"
Instant regret. How do I explain that I've been up since 3:30am and got the wrong bus here, to a place where I'd actually wished I'd organised to come? I made up something, partially incoherent, said the place was really nice (not mentioning I'd been here for only 15 minutes), finished the survey, then went on to find a tram.

There was only a middle aged couple on the tram when I got there.
"Excuse me. Sorry. I've been up since about 3am. Is this the right tram to get into Adelaide?"
"There's only one tram, and yes, it takes you into the centre of Adeilaide."
"Oh, thank God"
I collapsed into a seat opposite them. We chatted our way into the city. They were Aussies on holiday, staying at Glenelg and visiting Adeilade. They'd been to Yorkshire about the same time as when I was leaving. We chatted about the Dales and the places they'd been, such as Hawes and the James Herriot Museum. They got off at the market and a stop later I disembarked to go find my hostel.

At Shakespeare's Hostel I got the run down from the very professional, knowledgable receptionist. He knew exactly what I would be doing the next day, where I needed to be and when. He gave me full list of sites and streets to see in Adeilade, and wrote it down on a free map. Sorted. Instructions. I can do that. Even on minimal sleep. Time to go see Adeilaide in half a day!

Let's start with China Town because, despite 3 breakfasts, cereal bars and banana bread just don't cut it. I found the food court, which was utter chaos! Everyone was there from white businessmen in suits, to mothers with children, to old Chinese men, and even a few school kids. The place was bustling and I could have happily eaten anything there (though there weren't any Bing stalls. Love a good Bing.) As the chaos grew, it getting into the lunch hour, I just picked something filling- a form of spiced noodles that I could pronounce just about well enough to look like a white guy who likes Thai food. I then got to feel really smug as I took up my chopsticks- only to realise it's been quite some time since I've used them, especially with slippery noodles! After a few moments I got back into it though. I like chopsticks. There a nice, challenging, change from the stab n grab that I practice with a knife and fork.
Full of food I perused the rest of the marked, finding the usual array of spices, fruit and vegetables, weird "wholesome" stuff, and the odd stall of crap.

Afterwards I walked out onto Victoria Square. The Queen still presides over the square, though here present view is one of construction work as the square is upgraded and renewed. To one side I found the ancient looking St Francis Xavier's Cathedral- it still amazes me that the churches in the Southern Hemisphere are nearly all gothic. The Catholic Church in particular has worked hard to make an architectural impact. Inside the orange sandstone gives the place an interesting, orange glow. After Palm Sunday the pillars either side of the aisle have been decorated with palm leaves and the religious statues have been covered with cloth. It somewhat reminds me of the churches of the Middle East shown in Kingdom of Heaven. 

Next up was the shopping centre of Adelaide's CBD (Central Business District, aka City Centre). In a line, West to East, run three streets. Hindley Street is where all of the night clubs, pubs, and take always are. Rundle Mall has the most shops per square metre than anywhere also in the Southern Hemisphere (probably). And finally Rundle Street- which is supposedly full of up market bars and restaurants, though the singlets I saw worn on the street say otherwise. 
Rundle Mall is the main area of interest during day light. The street is wide, having been pedestrianised. There are a number of sculptures along the street, including 4 pigs which I, stupidly, failed to take pictures of! Silly Wingham. Did get a picture of me inform of two very shiny metallic spheres balanced upon one another though. 

The CBD is lucky enough to have retained a completely enclosing wall of greenery around it. After wandering through Rundle Street I found this at Rundle Park. From here I took the two step north that put me into the Botanic Garden. Yes. Another one. Every decent city in Australia and New Zealand has one. Some have become too big to be a garden, merging into a park instead. Some are small but lovely, like St Kilda's. Adelaide is much like Christchurch, having a large garden- but seems to have managed to find the funding to make good use of the space. Each area is something different, a well used space with a variety of plant species. I found the Victorian glass house, the rose gardens, a modern wetland recently built, and the slightly older rainforest greenhouse. As well as this are the various acreages of a myriad of plants- complete with canoodling teen couple trying to hide behind a tree whom I tried to ignore as I walked past.

The modern green house was amazing. They even have a specimens of one of the world's smelliest flowers- but it only flowers once a decade, so presently it's showing off the world's largest undivided leaf. It looked like a mathematically (in terms of fractals) perfect tree, all in green, with intraconnected leaves running along each branch. Oh, and enough signs telling you not to touch it for the thing to look like Chenobyl. For once I restrained myself and left it be where it was.
The central information centre was nearly shut when I arrived. Given how I've found Asutralian museum to be so far I wasn't too bothered about learning the history of the place anyway. Many of them seem to be like British museums were 10+ years ago- full of information you could skim read without really learning anything important. The Kiwi, Moari, and Aboriginal ones have generally been better. I guess "Veni, Vedi, Vici" doesn't make for that interesting of a story when it was so quick. "That's what she..." "Shut up".
Alongside the information centre stand a cafe, a store from which they sell off spare cuttings, and a greenhouse which incorporates a huge pond. Here they house a few species of lily, including some with leaves around 2 metres across. 

Having run around most of the gardens I left via the "Friends Gate" and made my way towards the Torrens River, which broadens out by the CBD to be the Torrens Lake. On the way I found the University of Adelaide which sits on the North East corner of the CBD. I look a short walk though the grounds to get to the river. Seems like a nice place. 

I walked along the river until distracted by the Adelaide Oval and the St Peters Cathedral, both of which are north of the William Road bridge. Walking across the bridge I looked out towards the glass footbridge I would take on my return. Renovation is going on around the Festival Centre. There are modern sculptures in the park. The University rowing teams were practicing in the lake. Everything was bright, the sun shining down on green grass, polished steel, and glass. It looked like a picture of the near future- as if all of those architecturalists dreams had come true. The world is fit and healthy, weather perfect, the city beautiful and clean. Sydney feels a bit like this, at times. Melbourne too. Maybe it's the amount of space they have. Or the money. Or just to forward thinking attitude, ignoring all the NIMBYs and naysayers. Whatever, it looks cool.

Having walked around everything I could see there I realised how tired and hungry I was. I wanted to go back to China Town for dinner, but I had been awake for about 15 hours now and really wanted to just sit down somewhere. Hungry Jack's was just down Hindley Street, so I decided to give it a try.
Some of you probably know the Hungry Jacks is what Burger King is called in Australia. The reason for this is there was already a small burger place somewhere here called Burger King. BK offered the owner millions for the rights to the name. It was hailed as a great victory for the little man vs the giant corporation. BK had to become HJ. Then, years later, the guy who owned Australian Burger King went bankrupt. But, rather than the rights going to BK, McDonalds stepped in early and offered him millions for the naming rights. So now their greatest competitor owns the rights to BK's name!
I have to say, for the same price, Hungry Jacks is better than McDonalds- there's actually veg and flavour to the burgers- though it's no Thai noodles.

Friday, 19 February 2016

Day 76: Byron Bay

Friday 19th February 

Sea kayaking cancelled, chilling in Byron Bay

Distance: Walking, 6km
Total Distance: 11941km

Today's Sea Kayaking was cancelled due to weather warnings. I don't mind too much- Byron Bay's an amazing place and we were all happy to have a day to chill out here. Our rainforest glamping enclave was hot and humid so Katie, a Brit, Sarah, of the USA, and I, no known residence, took a stroll down to the beach.

Here the waves were thick and fast- time for a swim! I joined a huge gang of random guys doing something that looked like body boarding but without the board. We'd jump over or swim under little waves getting out and waiting for something larger. Then try to paddle back in fast enough to catch the wave. The times I managed to properly catch the wave were amazingly fun. I might be starting to like beaches!

Once I was tired and dirty it was time to come in. A little dry off time then I wanted to be off- I'm not keen on burning under the strong sun here and I've got a blog to write for you lovely people. Katie wanted a shower so we left Sarah to brown, returning to ByronStock.

By 4pm I was kind of hungry and had been advised to try a Portugese chicken burger joint. Here I found Sarah and we took our succulent meaty treat down to the park. Here, surrounded by people who've maintained Peace & Love mantras since the 60's, and their paduwan learners, I've caught up on the blog. Next up, Yorkshire Tea at the hostel, some reading, them Thai food with the crew, and maybe a paint party. Wish me luck! :)

Day 74: Driving to Yamba for the beach

Wednesday 17th February 

Hung over, drove...drove...drove...food in the mountains, down to the beach for a swim

Distance: 430km
Total Distance: 11735km

Mildly hung over we spent much of today driving towards Yamba. The township has been awarded Australia's "Most Beautiful Township" award and is viewed as the next place to grow into significance. 

I can sort of see why people are moving here. It's a nice place. Decent beaches (mind the jellyfish), there's a harbour for all of the fishing boats. The countryside is lush and green from having enough rain (unlike some of Oz). We passed through large fields of sugar cane which is processed locally and exported in huge amounts.

The afternoon was spent on Yamba beach. A few went swimming in the sea until someone got a light jellyfish sting. I got out my miniature kite to play around with as the girls took to sunbathing.

Eventually there was just my German mate, Hendrick, and I left. At one end on the beach there's a sea water pool- a place to swim free of jellyfish! We went to do a few laps, but ended up in the defense pool. With the tremendous waves this beach gets the pool should get swamped every 5 seconds. Instead there's a crenalated wall which reduces the waves power. Behind this is a small pool into which the waves fall, dropping their debris as they lose power. Then a thick, low level wall before the main pool. This keeps the swimming pool relatively flat and clear. It also means there's a poo, full of warm, fresh, sea water that bubbles away- like a spa pool. We joined an Australian couple to enjoy the refreshing, healing, relaxing properties of several tons of the Pacific Ocean pushing us up against the dividing wall a few times a minute.

For dinner I tried the local Fish and Chips. Not as good as NZ or the UK! Someone must be doing it wrong, I'll have to try again elsewhere. Equally the beer was good, but not good enough to aid my pool playing. The guide and I won again, but I just wasn't getting my shots in.

We did have a decent chat at dinner though. All the phones were piled in the middle of the table so people would stop worshipping them. After this everyone opened up more. Nothing like proper civilised conversation on an evening.

Saturday, 13 February 2016

Day 70: On the beach with old mates

Saturday 13th February 

Going to Coogee Bay with mates from my university days

Distance: Bus, 4km
Total Distance: 10573km

I've been staying with Chris, an old flatmate I lived with at uni in Edinburgh. Here's been here for just over a year doing an internship. One of our other friends from uni, Cannon, is from Sydney but now lives in the UK. However this weekend he was visiting so we organised to spend a day catching up on the beach.

We met up by Coogee Beach- near to where a lot of the British in Sydney live. It was another hot day so Chris decided to go by us a beach umbrella. At the store the young spaniard informed him "no refunds, no returns". This did confuse us for a while, but it would entertain us all day. 

We went down to the beach for a few hours to catch up and chat about life after uni, as well as tell the same old time honoured jokes. It was great to have a catch up- we haven't seen much of any of our uni mates since graduation. Thus we also got into ideas for when we're all back to reunite the flat for a weekend. (A heads up if you're reading guys!)

All this time the wind picked up and died. Picked up, died. Picked up, died. Then picked up and took the umbrella with it! I ran down the beach proclaiming "sorry, sorry, sorry!!!" to everyone it hit as it tumbled across the sand. Eventually it settled on a man who'd just been struck in the face by it. I apologised then ran away before he could complain. Two to the struts inside were bent, but it still worked. We had problems with it for the rest of the day too, but tied it down with bags enough to not be so embarrassed again.

The rest of the afternoon we alternated between swimming and chatting, went to the local Mexican restaurant, and found some of Cannon's local friends who we ate dinner with. Later, as the sun began to set, Chris got a volleyball and we practiced on the slowly cooling beach. We're not very good. After a few apologies as the ball flew off towards people and needing time to get home we eventually said good bye. It'll be at least another 6 months before we might see each other again. But today was a lovely day.

Friday, 18 December 2015

Day 11: Cathedral Cove Kayaking by the Coromandel, and a trip to Hot Water Beach

Wednesday 16th December
Kiwi Experience bus from Auckland to Hot Water Beach, Kayaking around Cathedral Cove and the wee islands, then down to Hot Water Beach to burn our feet on the boiling water coming up through the sand.
Distance: Bus, Auck-Hot Water Beach 174km , Kayak, 6km, minibus, 10km
Total Distance: 2168km


This is my view as a write this in the early morning light of Day 12. Sadly I can't say this is my accommodation- we stayed in the huts- but it's a pleasant view all the same.

Yesterday began slightly early as we left Auckland, followed by a talk from the driver for all of us new guys. We then drove off, through Thames, a small agricultural town next to a river that had reminded Cpt James Cook of the other Thames, and up through the mountains.

On the far side of the mountains lies Hot Water Beach, a place where water descends through cracks in the rocks, down towards a channel of magma, to be boiled before ascending. This marvel of geothermal activity is what the tour came here to see, as did a significant portion of the country, it seems. We went there later in the day to find the place filled with people, each group with its own hot pool dug into the sand. Hence why a small group has gone this morning to see it after the tide had washed away all of the pools. I'm not going because I have a festive cold. And it's 5am. And I'm lazy.

But before all of that happened, yesterday afternoon I went kayaking! This time we were in proper tandem sea kayaks. There were 5 of us plus guide, and as the other 4 were couples I went with the guide. Which would normally be weird, but he has just finished his first year of veterinary school, so we had plenty to talk about. Also his grandfather used to farm the local area, including keeping sheep on a small island in the bay (having to transport the sheep via a small rowing boat), and used to own the tourist destination that is the Cathedral Cove, until he donated it to the Department of Conservation 

We paddled round towards Cathedral Cove with the wind and sea spray in our faces, bobbing over the coastal waves of the Pacific Ocean. On our way we passed through the shallows, running through gaps in the rocks and taking a detour into Lovers' Cave, a small sea cave with a miniature, romantic beach within. 

Cathedral Cove is effectively two beaches, joined by a huge hole in the rock, hence the name. There is a small waterfall and cave on the eastern beach, and a large number of cairns built by tourists on the other. Atop the cliffs hang a myriad of trees, the odd one having crashed into the sand leaving behind the skeleton of a tree on the shore. 

The Cove and cliffs were formed from volcanic debris, including pumice and ash. The Rock is relatively soft, and is steadily being warn away by sea salt having an effect similar to the freeze-thaw effect. As sea water splashes on the rock it deposits droplets containing salt. The salt forms crystals, which expanding, owning gaps in the rock. Over thousands of years this multiplies into an effect that gives he rock a honey comb appearance and forms the caves.

We walked around the cove, meeting up with the rest of the tour group who had walked here. Our guide made us ridiculously good mochas on a travel stove and we planned our next move. Further around the coast is Sting Ray Bay, but it's the wrong season to see them. There are more islands further out, part of the Nature Reserve that makes up the area- New Zealand's oldest and smallest ocean nature reserve. However the wind looked to be picking up so our guide didn't think we'd make it. Instead we could use the sail!

We formed a raft, the central kayak holding us side by side. The outside kayaks each got a corner of the large black sail, the people at the back hoisting it on their paddles. The sail filled with wind, ready to push us forth...and then died. Islands it was!

The sail was packed up and we set off for the closest island. A pair of Canadian girls were struggling with their craft, so the guide and I tied a line to their prow and towed them out to sea. Out on the ocean stood the large edifices of rock, topped by trees, now maintained as nesting sites for birds. We saw a number of cormorants, but no little blue penguins. We paddled through a hole in the rock before heading back to our starting point.

As we left the guide pointed out the shape of the island to us. Hundreds of years ago a chief travelled by canoe through the area. He looked at the island and decided it looked like his nose. In Maori tradition if a feature looks like one of your body parts then it was created for you. Thus, when his tribe agreed that it did look like his nose, he climbed to the top and claimed all that he could see for himself. The terracing of a local hill can still be seen where he build his fortified village.

After kayaking we went to Hot Water Beach, burned our feet, then came back to the hostel for fish n chips, a bottle of local Chardonnay, and some Tim Tams.