Day 95: Great Ocean Road, 8/12 Apostles, MELBOURNE!

Wednesday 9th March

Many sea front viewing points along the well worn limestone coast

"12" Apostles

Great Ocean Road- built by returned servicemen after the Great War

Trailer swap and me the Bird Man

Melbourne

Distance: 

Total Distance:

We quickly flitted between viewpoints this morning, getting a variety of views along the coast. The cliffs are limestone which is eroded by the sea easily. This has left many formations. One of these WAS The Bridge of London- a stretch of rock sticking out into the sea with two arches beneath. However in the early 90s the arch closest to land collapsed, leaving two tourists stranded. Only the one arch remains now.

Further along is what was initially called the Sow and Piglets- one large rock and many small. These were renamed the 12 Apostles to tempt more tourists in. The name stuck, despite the fact that there are only 8. When Europeans first arrived there were 9 of the great 50m high limestone stacks. They stand out in the sea, battered by waves, slowly eroded at the base, waiting to be toppled. 

We carried on along the Great Ocean Road. Built shortly after the Great War to connect the isolated farming and fishing townships it used the skills and abilities servicemen had learnt in digging the trenches at a time when there were limited jobs. My favourite story about its creation occurred after a shipment of beer and rum came in. The load was supposed to last them for 2 years. Instead, being good Aussies, they decided to take a 2 week vacation! They then hammered through all of the booze in short order until all of the rum was gone. Given that most of the rubble removal work, after blasting with dynamite, was done by hand they undoubtedly deserved it. Must have been one hell of a party!

After we were of the officially Great ocean road we found a small cafe to wait at. We got through over a week in the desert without any rain. It's a desert, I doubt this is special. However the group coming through after us had managed to find an enormous storm. What's more it had happened whilst they were in William Creek- the place with nothing but a pub and airfield surrounded by dirt roads. The weary was so bad that they would be stuck there for at least 2 days, the roads being impassable, and might have to be flown out. Not a bad lace to be stuck, if we're honest, so long as the beer and air-con continue to flow! Anyway, our bus having been serviced recently it was needed to go back north to help out. Thus we swapped Gilbo for Gemma.

Whilst waiting at the stop we went for a little walk. There was a park next door full of parrots. And the store sold little bags of bird seed which the parrots would happily take out of ones hand. Two Canadian girls were already there and getting quite terrified as dozens of parrots attempted to land on them , battling for seed. In swoops BirdBoy, gently picking off the most obtuse birds. They thanked me and gave me what remained of their bird feed. So I spent half an hour feeding parrots, ducks, and a few smaller birds. I'd have parrots in each hand, each shoulder, and one on my hat as I talked to other people about them and to the parrots about not being bullies to one another. There were a fair number of larger green parrots and a few smaller red parrots- still haven't bought a bird book, still don't know what they are. Happy and entertaining was enough for me. Thus people from my group have photos of me covered in parrots. No photos of my own, I was too busy being BirdBoy.

Finally we got into Melbourne. Many of us had chosen to spend one night in the Nomads hostel as that's were we were due to be dropped off. From here a few of us decided to sally forth (she's a lovely girl) into the city to find food.

Melbourne's full of restaurants, many Asian, ranging from expensive posh places to small cheap take always. We were out looking for somewhere in between. It was late, we were tired and hungry. We ended up in a Korean barbecue restaurant that turned out not to be as cheap as the adverts on the front door. Not only that but the menu was primarily raw ingredients one was given to then cook on the barbecue in the middle of the table. It's not very British to leave a restaurant once you've been sat down but no one could be bothered. Half an apology was made and we left.

There was a Nandos across the road. Neither the Gerrmans nor Canadian had been before. It's basically Portugese spicy chicken served very quickly. In the UK I've normally found it very dry and tasteless, other than the hot sauce. But it was cheap and fast. Turned out to be quite good too, compared to the UK edition. It arrived nearly the moment we'd ordered and seemed to do the trick.

We went back to the hostel and despite my best efforts to go shower I found my self waking up at 4am still dressed having accidentally lain down on the bed.

Day 67-68: Out into the Countryside with a vet and 2 students

Wednesday 10th - Thursday 11th February

Waking up at 4:45am to see some Aussie farms with a vet in the blazing sun

Early start back into the city

Distance: ~300km

Total Distance: 10559km

Today I was going out with a university vet! We started out at 5:30am, with 2 final year students, to go look at cows south of Sydney. We did examinations and treatments at a number of farms. The day was roasting hot but, after the wettest January in 30 years, the landscape was still green. 

The reason for the early start was two fold. We had a 2 hour drive to just get to where we were needed. This was an exciting prospect for me as it allowed me to see some of the real Australia, outside of the city. We passed many townships, farms and houses. There wasn't too much wildlife in evidence. Unless you count the wombat that had been killed on the road. Big solid looking beast, the size of a large terrier but build like a boar.

The second reason for our early start was that we were checking the whole herd to see if they were pregnant. We call this "PDing" for short- pregnancy detection/determination. Thus, having been milked since early in the morning the herd had been put into a small nearby paddock to wait out arrival. Never keep a woman waiting. We needed to be there ASAP.

The herd was relatively small and I helped by moving cattle around for the vet. The sun was blazing down on us, helping my tan. I had time to take in the view of hills, wild forest, hedges, and pasture. In the distance I heard my first wild kookaburra. There were also a few more colourful birds flying around. I'll have to buy a bird book. I don't recognise any of them!

There were a number of jobs to do on a number of farms. We trimmed feet, looked at calves, cows, bulls, and abscesses. The farm equipment, sheds, and yards looked more like the UK or USA than those I'd seen in New Zealand. There was more use of TMRs, Total Mixed Ration (everything they need that the pasture won't provide), instead of NZ's unique use of its well understood, well grown pasture. The dairy cattle are bigger too. More akin to the European and American 700kg cows than the wee 550kg Kiwi Cross. The farms themselves weren't all large, but the size is growing. Many are around 300 cattle, but the size grows as some farms fail to turn a profit and are bought up, or as cooperatives are formed. 

It was a great day out for me. By 2pm we were done. Time for Chicken Wizard! This little take away is the vet farm departments go to for the best lunch in town. We got Portugese style chicken burgers, delicious, succulent, and spicy. A good end to the day before I slept all the way back.

The next day I was woken up early. One of my hosts was supposed to be getting the day off, taking me to the train station later on. However her boss had been in a car crash, so she would be covering him at work. Having just been in a crash myself I'm really starting to doubt the Australians driving skills! 

Back into the city I went. Much of the day was then spent in the various parks bird watching. Still haven't got a bird book, but I did recognise the Ibis, Cockatoos, and Plum-headed...something. I'll work on it for next time 

Day 40: Ulva Island

Thursday 14th January 

Bird watching on Ulva Island

Distance: boat, 2km, walked, 10km

Total distance: 5133km

Today I took a boat out to Ulva Island, a bird paradise. I watched Wekas digging for insects by the path, Kakas chew into trees for grubs, and Stewart Island Robins beg for food wherever one stopped- actually I even watched 3 Robins attack an old lady who'd fed one a crumb of her sandwich. They got away with a good chunk of crust!

Between the forest, my camera, and the constantly moving birds, however, I eventually gave up trying to photograph all that I saw. Some came very close, but my photos were never going to be as good as others, so I just happily ambled about, pausing in one spot for a while, trying to see and hear all I could.

I purchased a very useful little self guiding booklet before I came across. There a some very good guided tours, but it's nice to go out and explore these places alone, when I could be quiet and still. Having said that their guide could show them things I missed.

Here's a few photos from the booklet, for better check Google Images

In order

Brown creeper- heard, not seen

Tomtit- seen

Stewart Island robin-they hunt in packs

Bellbird- heard 

Stewart Island weka- seen many, had to disappoint an Ozzie to tell him it wasn't a kiwi

Silvereye- sitting on power lines yesterday 

Yellowhead- not seen

Kaka- they live in the hostel garden

South Island saddleback- seen! Beautiful 

Grey warbler- seen

Oystercatcher- seen, been told to "piss off" by angry parents who have little fluffy grey chicks at the moment

New Zealand Parakeet- seen! Far up in the trees, a pair, beautiful 

Shining cuckoo & long-tailed cuckoo- not seen either

Fantail- seen. A chick learning to fly landed at my feet yesterday 

Tui- seen loads

Rifleman- not seen

Morepork- not seen here, but saw on North Island 

New Zealand wood pigeon- seen. Looks fat, juicy, and beautiful. I can understand why the Moari loved them.

Stewart Island brown kiwi- others did today, I'm still working on it

YELLOWHEAD 

Day 39: Invercargill to Stewart Island

Wednesday 13th January 

Took the ferry to Stewart Island (I've left the South Island!) and landed on the birders paradise.

Distance: Bus to Bluff, 29km, Ferry ~40km

Total Distance: 5121km

There was a German kid going from the Southern Comfort hostel to Stewart Island so we set out together on a boring, neither grey nor blue, morning to take the bus out to Bluff. Along the way we chatted about our plans- like me he was going to do the little three day "Great Walk" of Stewart Island.

At the ferry our bags were packed away into large steel tubs and hoisted on board. We followed onto the little craft and found seats in the cabin with a table.

The start was rough, having to get out of the swell around Bluff before getting into the only slightly less turbulent Foveaux Strait. Outside the winds wiped up the surf as the boat hammered through the waves. We headed outside for photos and to try our sea legs, whilst chatting about how we were finally leaving the South Island and joking that we'd better look after the complimentary sick bags just in case.

Within an hour we reached the calmer waters of Stewart Island to disembark and set foot on a new land. There were already a multitude of birds in the sky and forest surrounded the little township of Oban, the one small community here.

We found our hostel, then went out to find the Department of Conservation building, getting the tickets for our walk accommodation. I dropped in to organise a ferry for the next day to Ulva Island, the largest island in the inlet by Oban, now virtually cleared of rats and deemed the best bird sactuary in the area.

The Kai Kart is on the next street serving the best Fish and Chips in all New Zealand. No kidding, we went for lunch and it was glorious. The seagulls looked at us expectantly as we tucked in, leaving nothing for them. The Germans in the hostel are presently talking about them as I write (in German- I'm able to get a few of the words, like "Fish und Chips")

We couldn't help laughing over lunch at the number of cars here. 400 people inhabit Oban. It's the only settlement on the island. There's maybe, including every side street, a total of 50km of road here, with the maximum travel distance between two places maybe being 10km, though Oban's only about 1/2km across the main centre. Yet there looks to be 200 cars. WHERE IS EVERYONE GOING??

Kind of surprised they haven't all just chipped in to buy 10 utes to leave for anyone wanting to move anything heavy. Not like anyone's going to steal them. I can understand the people further out having cars. I'm sure there's good reason for the rest, but still.

It's such a small place. And it's filled with cars! Half of them must be doing 2km per day! Oh well.

My German friend was starting the walk the next day so he went to pack as I went for a nap. I hit the hay pretty hard and was awake just in time to make it next door to the island's cinema. Yeh, they have a cinema. A proper one. Small, but it has proper seats and a decent screen. They have short-film festivals and every day at 11am, 2pm, and 4pm show a 40 minute film about the island and its history, presented by the cinema owner's dog, Lola. In the foyer Lola sits patiently for photos and cuddles- there's a hall of fame of her with such big names as Prince Harry. Before the show started a couple of people lined up to use the "make your own popcorn" machine before Lola rang her a little bell, relieved a thin slice of carrot as a treat, and we all went to find our seats.

The film revolved around "stories from the pub", going back as far as when the Maori arrived, through early days of whaling, sealing, and forestry, to the setting up on Oban. For a while Stewart Island wasn't actually part of New Zealand. No one really noticed this for years. The islanders brought supplies in from Sydney and life went on. Yet without checks at the port into Oban, and no checks from Oban to the main islands there was a loop hole. This was used by a local Maori to smuggle in gunpowder and guns which were traded to Maori on the main islands, so that they could have the advantage in intertribal wars. The initial attempt to stop this failed due to the legal loophole. Thus the island had to be bought by New Zealand from the Maori, with certain exceptions in laws such as allowing the continued traditional harvest of Mutton Birds by the local tribe, and protection for the rest. And thus Stewart Island became part of New Zealand.

There were attempts her to farm cattle and sheep, but these weren't profitable. The locals funded and built there own fish processing plant, enabling the local catch to be frozen for export on the island, making this business significantly more profitable for the island. Now there are fish and mussel farms, as well as the summer tourism, which is built up around the fact that nearly the entire island is a reserve hosting the country's rarest birds, including 50,000 kiwi, and off shore the one island to still have Kakapo.

That evening I walked around nearly all of the paths on the western side of Oban, seeing the wharf where I would be leaving for Ulva Island the next day, and a few of the birds still flying around.

As I arrived back at the hostel I was met by a phenomenal sight- everyone was in the garden and surrounded by one of New Zealand's parrots, the Kaka. The large birds were taking food off the table and people's hands as we all took photos.

Photo from Google images. Sorry, none on my phone, only camera. If anyone wants to sponsor an upgrade to tech that allows for transfers I'm all for it

Day 11: Cathedral Cove Kayaking by the Coromandel, and a trip to Hot Water Beach

Wednesday 16th December

Kiwi Experience bus from Auckland to Hot Water Beach, Kayaking around Cathedral Cove and the wee islands, then down to Hot Water Beach to burn our feet on the boiling water coming up through the sand.

Distance: Bus, Auck-Hot Water Beach 174km , Kayak, 6km, minibus, 10km

Total Distance: 2168km

This is my view as a write this in the early morning light of Day 12. Sadly I can't say this is my accommodation- we stayed in the huts- but it's a pleasant view all the same.

Yesterday began slightly early as we left Auckland, followed by a talk from the driver for all of us new guys. We then drove off, through Thames, a small agricultural town next to a river that had reminded Cpt James Cook of the other Thames, and up through the mountains.

On the far side of the mountains lies Hot Water Beach, a place where water descends through cracks in the rocks, down towards a channel of magma, to be boiled before ascending. This marvel of geothermal activity is what the tour came here to see, as did a significant portion of the country, it seems. We went there later in the day to find the place filled with people, each group with its own hot pool dug into the sand. Hence why a small group has gone this morning to see it after the tide had washed away all of the pools. I'm not going because I have a festive cold. And it's 5am. And I'm lazy.

But before all of that happened, yesterday afternoon I went kayaking! This time we were in proper tandem sea kayaks. There were 5 of us plus guide, and as the other 4 were couples I went with the guide. Which would normally be weird, but he has just finished his first year of veterinary school, so we had plenty to talk about. Also his grandfather used to farm the local area, including keeping sheep on a small island in the bay (having to transport the sheep via a small rowing boat), and used to own the tourist destination that is the Cathedral Cove, until he donated it to the Department of Conservation 

We paddled round towards Cathedral Cove with the wind and sea spray in our faces, bobbing over the coastal waves of the Pacific Ocean. On our way we passed through the shallows, running through gaps in the rocks and taking a detour into Lovers' Cave, a small sea cave with a miniature, romantic beach within. 

Cathedral Cove is effectively two beaches, joined by a huge hole in the rock, hence the name. There is a small waterfall and cave on the eastern beach, and a large number of cairns built by tourists on the other. Atop the cliffs hang a myriad of trees, the odd one having crashed into the sand leaving behind the skeleton of a tree on the shore. 

The Cove and cliffs were formed from volcanic debris, including pumice and ash. The Rock is relatively soft, and is steadily being warn away by sea salt having an effect similar to the freeze-thaw effect. As sea water splashes on the rock it deposits droplets containing salt. The salt forms crystals, which expanding, owning gaps in the rock. Over thousands of years this multiplies into an effect that gives he rock a honey comb appearance and forms the caves.

We walked around the cove, meeting up with the rest of the tour group who had walked here. Our guide made us ridiculously good mochas on a travel stove and we planned our next move. Further around the coast is Sting Ray Bay, but it's the wrong season to see them. There are more islands further out, part of the Nature Reserve that makes up the area- New Zealand's oldest and smallest ocean nature reserve. However the wind looked to be picking up so our guide didn't think we'd make it. Instead we could use the sail!

We formed a raft, the central kayak holding us side by side. The outside kayaks each got a corner of the large black sail, the people at the back hoisting it on their paddles. The sail filled with wind, ready to push us forth...and then died. Islands it was!

The sail was packed up and we set off for the closest island. A pair of Canadian girls were struggling with their craft, so the guide and I tied a line to their prow and towed them out to sea. Out on the ocean stood the large edifices of rock, topped by trees, now maintained as nesting sites for birds. We saw a number of cormorants, but no little blue penguins. We paddled through a hole in the rock before heading back to our starting point.

As we left the guide pointed out the shape of the island to us. Hundreds of years ago a chief travelled by canoe through the area. He looked at the island and decided it looked like his nose. In Maori tradition if a feature looks like one of your body parts then it was created for you. Thus, when his tribe agreed that it did look like his nose, he climbed to the top and claimed all that he could see for himself. The terracing of a local hill can still be seen where he build his fortified village.

After kayaking we went to Hot Water Beach, burned our feet, then came back to the hostel for fish n chips, a bottle of local Chardonnay, and some Tim Tams.