Day 69: The First Prison built and The Catholic Cathedral

Friday 12th February 

Going to the original jail house in Sydney and the St Mary's Catholic Cathedral 

Distance: Bus, 6km, walk, 4km

Total Distance: 10569km

The first convicts came to Sydney in 1788, building the colony that would become the city. Australia is the one convict colony that became a nation state in its own right. Yes, there were more-the UK sent its uncivilised scum all over the empire! The were effectively used as slave labour even as the UK finally outlawed slavery. Only in 'Stralia did they get organised and make it their own place.

One of the reasons for the success of the colony was its use of skilled labour. Anyone who knew a trade could be used by the government or a private individual as a cheap employee. Not only such trades as shepherds, blacksmiths, and coopers made it out here, but even people who had once been engineers and architects. Thus it was a convict who designed and organised the building of the first major prison here. It's so sturdy it still stands today.

The site has changed over the years, but the central building is still the same. A large building on three levels, divided into four rooms, six for 30 convicts each, six for 70 convicts. Each of the 600 men and boys slept in hammocks, some of which have been recreated on the top floor.

Outside was the courtyard, surrounded by trade buildings built in a solid perimeter to form a wall. Much of this has since been demolished to make way for new buildings as times have changed. The original gate houses are there though and one corner building. Doesn't look like much of a perimeter though. Didn't need to be, most convicts kept there chains on hands and feet throughout their incarceration. However a few did make it over the wall. Most came back within a few hours-there wasn't much to do in early Australia, other than get killed by the ecosystem.

I made a quick trip to the enormous building next door too- St Mary's Catholic Cathedral, built in the medieval gothic style. It still amazes me that people just over a hundred years ago decided to build buildings of the type that we constructed in Europe 500 years ago. They're expensive, time consuming, and technically difficult to build. Yet here it is, a European cathedral in appropriate style and grandeur, on the other side of the world. I first wanted to look around at lunch time,but arrived during mass, when people looked to have come from work. Deciding to wait until later I went to the prison. Later I accidentally arrived during afternoon mass which many seemed to be attending straight from work. I quietly waited before taking a look around. The Catholic Church doesn't do things by half here. There's all the small altars, alcoves, and shrines one would find in a far older cathedral. They also have the garments of a Saint, the last Catholic priest killed by the English government.

Day 66: Blue Mountains

Tuesday 9th January

Blue Mountains, including falls, three sisters, and scenic world

Distance: 270km

Total Distance: 10259km

The Blue Mountains are classed as one of those "must do" sights if you are spending anytime around Sydney. Thankfully one of my hosts was due to be working in Penrith today. She gave me a lift to the train station, which is on the line leading into the mountains, and I was there in less than an hour.

I got off at Katoomba, a township over over 8000 residents, plus not a few tourists. From here I got the bus to part of the Prince Harry Track which I would be following to a variety of viewing platforms sat out on the edge of the cliff. From the cliff we could see the forest below stretching out towards a flat-topped mountain out on its own, surrounded by mist. As the day wore on the mist began to clear and I moved further along. 

The Three Sisters are a formation of three rock stacks. In Aboriginal legend they are three sisters engaged to three warrior brothers who died in battle and now stand forever waiting. There's a playing field size lookout platform alongside them, but also a small set of stairs down to them. So of course I took the steep, narrow, frankly dangerous steps to stand on one of the sisters.

I had lunch in the centre behind the sisters. There's an Aboriginal cultural show you can see, as well as a large gift shop, bar and restaurant. Quick lunch, check out the store, then I was off to "Scenic World".

The ONLY reason I went to Scenic World was because that name is SO terrible. It was begun decades ago when the name sounded good. They had big plans for the place. There's roller coaster that would never meet changing regulations for safety and so never be used. The orphan rock, a solitary rock stack used for a lot of weddings, now too unstable and crumbled for the public. They still have the worlds steepest railway though, as well as a couple of cable cars and their exhibit the mining history on the site. It was actually really good. It's something that would be very worth doing for anyone who can't (or is just too lazy to) see much of this type of area by foot. 

Day 65: Vet School

Monday 8th February

Bus n train to vet school, car crash, huntsman

Distance: ~90km

Total Distance: 9989km

The Sydney University Veterinary School hospitals are out to the far west of Sydney. This is the Camden Campus, just outside of the little town of Camden. 

(NB, London, the UK's oldest vet school also has a Camden Campus! Different Camden, obviously)

Turns out this isn't too quick to get to via public transport- but it was relatively easy. Aren't smart phones great? Thanks Google maps.

Bus, Train, Bus, Bus. All paid for via my Opal card, the city's scan on/off transport payment system. Same as the Oyster card in London.

After 2 1/2 hours I was out at the Vet School, greeted by the signs telling me to "Beware of Snakes". Well that's novel. Makes a change from "Keep Off The Grass". Yes, I think I will be wary of the snakes. Thanks for the reminder.

My sister had out me in contact with Mike. He's an Irish vet working in the farm department, and I'd be staying with for a couple of days. After a quick check in at reception I was introduced to my host, followed by the rest of the department and a couple of final year students. I sat and had a chat with the students, successfully disrupting their paper work.

I'd gotten there late in the day so we were soon jumping in the big, solid, tough work ute. A ute is basically a pick up truck with an extra row of seats and, potentially, a canopy over the rear section. They're pretty indestructible. Though I did once see a drunk kiwi farmer right one off by driving into a ditch. Idiot.

As we left the campus we talked about snakes and spiders. 

"I used to have a Huntsman in here some where." I flinched and looked around. That wasn't the news I wanted. Huntsman spiders can grow big. Hand sized big. And they're slightly poisonous.

Down the road we joined the main highway bustling with rush hour traffic. The road was busy with the usual people trying to get home from work, as well as trucks large and small. We were steadily making our way back, chatting away, minding our own business, sitting in the queue before a roundabout, when suddenly...

Someone slammed a cricket bat against the back of my chair.

I hammered forward against the seat belt.

Brakes were slammed back on.

Someone had hit us!

We pulled over. Behind us an older British couple in a little Toyota had been forced into the back of our ute. Their bonnet had gone under our tow bar, leaving us with limited damage. However, they'd been sandwiched between us and the ute behind. They sat there, clearly shocked and stunned, in their crumpled car. An Aussie emerged from the ute behind, talking quickly and with little in the way of apology.

"These things happen, mate. You know, mate? These things just happen mate. Accidents happen."

I wasn't in the mood to start taking issue enough to point out that this wasn't an 'accident'. You fucked up mate. Your fault. Mate.

The British guy quietly sat by the road with me.  His car's only straight panel now was the roof, with no unsmashed lights. His clearly distressed wife still sat trying to compose herself in the passenger seat. He added a couple of colourful words to our quiet chat too. I agreed.

I was sat in the back of the ute waiting for details to be exchanged. Then suddenly the F-ing Huntsman appeared on the seat!!! It wasn't full grown, only about the size of my palm. I tried to get a photo but it ran off before I could even get a camera out. That is not reassuring. I jumped out of the car.

The tow truck arrived and the police came for a quick look in. No one was significantly hurt so they wouldn't be making a record of the event. We were fine- a few flecks of paint, not much. The Aussie ute had a large dent in its bull bars but nothing else. The wee Toyota was potentially a right off. Nearly all of the panels were bent and lights shattered but no idea about the innards.

We left them all there by the roadside. Coming off relatively unscathed it was simply a shock. Time for a beer.

Day 62-64: Sydney

Friday 5th-Sunday 7th February

Randwick, Games Workshop and Centennial Park

Central Sydney: Museum of Sydney, Observatory Hills, The Rocks, The Sydney Opera House, The Sydney Harbour Bridge, the Botanical Gardens 

Distance: Buses, 15km, Walking, 35km

Total Distance: 8899km

I spent my first days resting, nerding out, visiting the local area and the local Centennial Park. It's quite odd having such a sudden change of flora and fauna. There's a lot of amazing birds in the parks here, as well as native trees able to deal with the low rain fall.

After this I felt ready to venture out into the tourist spots. My Lonely Planet guide suggested a walk from the Observatory to the Botanic Gardens, taking in the Bridge and Opera House.

In the way down I dropped in at the Museum of Sydney. This little museum is built over the site of the first Government House. It's got a good smattering of Aussie history but I can't say I stayed long. It was one of those museums with a bit too much guff, waffle, and information which, whilst probably interesting to the expert, wasn't an aid to my understanding of Australia's past.

However there were two exhibits I particularly enjoyed. One was in the cinema they have showing a series of old films about the building of parts of the city, such as the bridge. The other was a series of conversations between actors playing the parts of original settlers, giving the views and opinions of early Australia.

I moved off for the advised walk from Lonely Planet. The observatory, down past the bridge, to the Opera House, and out to the Botanci Gardens. I couldn't help but wander off course though.

Up on Observatory Hill there were a large number of couples having their wedding photos taken. This hill gives the best panoramic view of Sydney- thus is extremely popular. I had a plod around, taking in the large building that is the observatory with its 3 domes and the telescope outside as an exhibit. The view across Sydney was great, yet much of the modern cityscape is now housing, shopping malls, and industrial units. I felt out of place amongst the men in tails and ladies in white. Let's move on. 

I went under the highway that goes onto the bridge via a small old stone tunnel. This lead to "The Rocks", an area that has been inhabited virtually all the time there's been westerners here. There's even an area of some of the first houses which have been excavated and left on show so that people can walk through them, sit on replica chairs by replica tables. In The Rocks of today there was a street market going on with everything from cloths and crafts to food and drink. A quick look around and I was off. 

Between here and the Opera House are the Modern Art Gallery, great views of the bridge, and the quay. I wandered through the art gallery. It was ok. Nothing special. Nothing that really felt like anything. Not much that made me think. It was ok. I feel like the artists have spent too much time thinking about what they were going to produce and not enough feeling it. Saw better in New Zealand. But that's just my opinion.

The Opera House was cool to finally see. I never r aliased that it's two seemingly unconnected buildings. Nor did I realise that the roof is not big stretches of pure white. It's actually a series of white tiles, some tiles formed on the surface of the steel supports. Each of the two arenas had events about to start at this point. Everyone but me and the Chinese tourists were dressed up in their best for a night of opera or theatre. Hence I wasn't going for a proper look around the inside, instead the bars, cafes, and wee gift shop had to suffice.

The Botanic Garden is celebrating its 200th Anniversary. They've grown a few specific, spectacular, borders for the occasion and begun the renovation of some of their main buildings. I walked through on my way to the bus, amongst cycads and roses.

Day 61:Goodbye Kiwis, G'day Aussies

Thurday 4th February

Flying into Sydney and finding Chris

Distance: Bus, 6km, Plane 2227km, Bus, 10km, Walk, 3km

Total Distance: 8874km

Today began at...well, everyday starts at midnight, technically. I was up at midnight still packing. But eventually I got some sleep.

I woke after 3am, made breakfast including lots of coffee, and headed out for the bus. There were a few of us on the wee shuttle with me as the last to be picked up. Everyone else looked to be in a blurry state like me. Awake on too little sleep and knowing rest wouldn't come soon. We sat in silence. The dark was punctured by the odd monument or sculpture, lit throughout the night. I took a last glampse around Wellington. 

At the airport I tried to reclaim a wakeful state, aided by Smaug. Apparently he'd just smashed through the wall to say Goodbye to me. I then found a giant Golem hunting giant trout. Around the corner Gandalf sat atop one of the Giant Eagles, with another near by. All made by Weta Workshop. Amazing to see before I left.

And that was that. I flew out of Wellington. Goodbye New Zealand. It's been great.

Hello Australia!

Immigration was easy enough, but customs required a bit more. All that tramping in New Zealand made me a potential risk for the ecosystem- so I handed over my beloved boots for inspection and cleaning. Too easy (that's Aussie for...something)

9am and I'd been awake for hours. Time for coffee, juice, and wait for rush hour to end. And for the rain to stop.

Yes, it's raining. That's not normal here. Apparently they've had their wettest January in 30 years. It's green!

Eventually I got a public bus out to near where one of my university flatmates, Chris, works. The rain continued lightly as I walked down the road. I was just a street away when suddenly the heavens opened. I had to run, with everything I own on my back, round the corner and through the door. 

Chris had left his flat key for me at reception. I put on my rain coat and bag cover, preparing to walk to his flat. As I began the rain stopped. And my first experience of the boiling February Australian sun began.

I'm in Sydney! Sweaty, tired, and dehydrated. Time for a shower, tea, and bed.

Day 58,59 & 60: Ferry and back to Wellington

Monday 1st Tuesday 2nd Wednesday 3rd February

Kaikoura to Wellington via the ferry and 2 days in Wellington

Distance: Bus, 160km, Ferry, 100km

Total Distance: 6628km

The bus took us as far as the ferry terminal  at Picton. Half the tourists stated on the bus, preparing to do the west coast as they'd started in Christchurch. The rest of us checked in and got onto the ferry. It's wasn't so different from when I travelled from Wellington to Picton- clear skies, calm sea. I explored more, going up the the observation deck on the roof to see the last trails of land of the South Island as we left. I found the bar where a pint of beer was only $6- as much as on land- and sat to watch the ending of "Dambusters" on the large TV as a band played in the corner. Through the back of the bar was an area at the back of the ship. The wooden decking was covering in wicker chairs so one could relax whilst watching the South Island slide away throught the slanted glass roof. Which sounds lovely until you appreciate that's is basically a giant green house. Too warm for me. Time for some of the fantastic warm date scones that they bring around on a trolley.

Eventually I made it into Wellington where I would be staying with my good friend Sara for a couple of days. I dropped my bags off and, as she wasn't back from work yet, went to go see Taranteno's new film. 

The next day I repacked a couple of times then went out to go see Weta Workshop. Weta was made famous by the Lord of the Rings but, like the landscapes of New Zealand, it has done far more of note than just these three films. 

I decided to be lazy and get the Weta bus rather than a public bus to the site. It was much more expensive but kind of worth it. On the way back we would go via some of the other studios, a few sites of not around the area, and Peter Jackson's house. Apparently Scarlet Johanssen was filming nearby and living in a house on Peter's street. We never saw her through. :'(

We started with a film about Weta Workshop being formed in the flat of a Kiwi couple who Peter Jackson became friends with and together they made a number of 90's Kiwi films before moving on to bigger and bigger projects.

Weta has a display area which is near to much of their design and development space. It was AMAZING. There are models, prosthetics, art work and equipment from the many films they've helped with, alongside projects for private individuals and personal projects. Much of the gear from Lord of the a Rings is now nearly 20 years old and being steadily diluted by Narnia, District 9, King King, Halo, and The Wotwots. A nerds paradise. Loved it.

I even had a good chat afterwards with one of the designers about my own wee project. I'll tell you about that another day.

The next day I end up to Zealandia. This is a large bird sanctuary above Wellington. With the best anti-pest fences available it is effectively an island amidst the city. Here, like on Stewart Island, the birds can live in a virtual paradise with limited threat from such predators as rats and cats. Thus they thrive. 

Zealandia is a great place for anyone wanting to see New Zealand's birds. The downside for me was...me. 

Oh, look, a Kaka...seen it

A Tomtit...seen it

Parakeet...seen it

But,inf you're in Wellington I would highly recommend it. There are free buses that run from the information centre- the I-site- in the middle of the city. There are also guided tours and mobility scooters. Hence, if you won't make it to the top of Mount Avalanche or the swamp-jungles of Stewart Island, Zealandia is a wonderful place.

And it does allo you to see what NZ might be like if we hadn't invaded with all our mammals.

I also dropped into Te Papa. No real reason, just my favourite place. A phenomenal free museum. If you go to nothing else in Welly, go to Te Papa.

Then came my last evening in New Zealand. Sara gave me a call and I joined here at Crumpets, the supreme cocktail bar in Welly, for a couple of drinks with friends. We then headed to Five Boroughs, the American diner for my last meal in New Zealand. Sacrilege, I know.

1/2 a kilo of hot wings, 4 pieces of buttermilk fried chicken, 2 deep fried Oreos with ice cream, and a stack of pancakes with bacon and maple syrup later and I was quite full.

11pm that evening we got back to the flat. And I decided to repack. And repack. And repack.

By 1am I had it sorted, had a shower and went for 2 hours of sleep before my flight.

Day 57: Kaikoura Whale Watching

Sunday 31st January 

Sperm Whale off the starboard bow! And Dolphins! And a frogging great Albatross!!!

Distance: Bus, 181km, Boat, 18km

Total Distance:  6368km

Starting back on the Kiwi bus with only 2 days remaining was something of a shock. A significant number of people leave at Christchurch, and an equally significant number get on. New, young, inexperienced, people, not knowing how the buses work. As it turned out they don't know how to wash or dry their dishes either. (Old man grumbling noises)

Time to go to Kaikoura (Kai=food/eating, Koura=Crayfish) , the home of whale watching in NZ!

Boats leave every half hour and at least one sighting is virtually promised. The reason for the whales being here in such numbers is due to the deep sea trench just off shore. Here cold southerly currents meet northern warm currents and life thrives.

The Sperm Whale is the main species seen. The waters are relatively cold such that primarily males inhabit these waters. The males are larger and thus can survive comfortably at lower temperatures. Sperm whales are champions of deep sea dives, using the trench's ecosystem as their feeding grounds. They have large teeth, not combs, and eat any number of large animals such as squid and sharks (even great whites!)

Each whale dives down for around 2 hours before resurfacing. Here they are made obvious by the great sprays of water with each exhilation. They steadily bob in the water, breathing, digesting, defecating. This last for about 15 minutes before they dive again, head going down, tail giving a grand swish before slapping the water. The slap was known as The Hand of God by whalers, as it could destroy any little whaling boat sending everyone aboard to God. As the whale swims into the deep a patch of smooth water appears. This is caused by the whale's propulsion, but was believed by whalers to be a small oil slick left behind by the whales.

Sperm Whales get their name from the first whales caught having a white substance in their heads which looked like semen. It took them a little while to realise that's not where the reproductive organs are, but the name has stuck. It kind of works in other ways though-they have the largest head to body retro in the animal kingdom. They are 1/3 head, 1/3 torso & abdomen, and 1/3 tail.

The white substance in their heads is actually oil. It was harvested for years to be shipped to Europe and America for uses such as lamps. The biological purpose of the oil is uncertain. There are two theories:

1. At the surface, as the whale breathes, the oil cools becoming more solid, denser, and less boyant. This acts like a diving weight, pulling the whale down for its next dive. In the deep, once out of adequate oxygen, blood can be pumped around the oil. This heats it, creating less dense liquid which is more boyant. The whale is then able to swim more easily to the surface.

2. In the depths the whales use their echo location to find food. The oil could be used to aid sonar emission and/or detection, enabling them to see better in the dark.

We got our one whale easy enough and were joined by 2 other boats from the same fleet to watch as a creature as long as the boats and far heavier breathed. They are quite big...

Then he had enough, got hungry, and with a great slap of his tail descended.

During the rest of the ride we found bottlenose dolphins and a seal playing in amongst them, like a dog at a family gathering. The Dolphins swam around us and further off could be seen performing flips and playing games. 

My favourite though was the Albatross that flew at the boat and was nearly hit, had the skipper not slammed on the brakes. Wings out, it sailed past the windows. The span was phenomenal. You can't tell when they're out on the ocean, and can't really see it from the museum models. This thing stretched out to nearly the height of the boat. The average wingspan for a Wandering Albatross is apparently 3.85m. It was huge. Like a bird with wing extensions. And it nearly got plastered against the windscreen. 

Didn't even have time for a photo.