Thursday 26 February 2015

How to... Get into New Zealand (as a Vet)




Dear anyone who wants to know,

Over the course of my stay here a few of you have asked about what life is like here and how one might get into the beautiful country of New Zealand. Having received very helpful advise myself before getting in I think now is the time to pass on what I have been taught, as well as what I learnt from my experience. 

This will all be written primarily with a view of a British Veterinarian trying to get into NZ. Some of it may/may not be applicable to anyone else trying to get in for other work, but I hope its mostly useful across the board.

This is a combination of messages I've sent to various people:

Job hunting:
Finding a job was pretty easy, though I have landed on my feet- just used google, found an advert and got an interview etc. They were very helpful ensuring I had flights and initial accommodation organised. Its also a large practice with total 5 farm, 4 equine and 3 smallies vets, and very sociable. I've had a few friends come here and find themselves with 1 other vet in a small office. But same as any job, look at what you're offered and don't just jump at any offer- there are lots of animals here and not many vets, so there are a lot of jobs available here.
Even if you can't find one via the internet from the UK, I've met a few people who came over here with a plan to just travel round as a holiday and potentially pick up a job whilst about.
Visa: Visa was very easy to get, they're keen to have more vets here, we're on a special list to be let into the country. Depending on time you'd want to spend here has a few requirements, but was like doing the Dick Vet annual portfolio, just had to get all the paperwork together. The people at immigration are very friendly & helpful- there's lots of info on their website and they'll help with any application (EVERYONE's very helpful. 23 years of UK customer service did not prepare me for how helpful everyone is). It was worth me ringing them before hand too as they were busy that week but they were able to fast track my application before my flights etc. There are also 12 month working visas which have less paperwork attached. If you want to just come visit and potentially think about picking up a job these can be great, and can be extended for if you want to stay longer.
Culture: Moving over here was really easy, but as I said earlier, the sociable, helpful practice made it so. I don't have any friends or family here, never been to NZ before, so was all a steep learning curve. The culture's enough like Britain to not be a shock, just took time to get my head around it all. The immigration website was helpful telling me what differences to be prepared for. There's info on work-life and what people expect of you. There's some stuff examples on there of NZ media, you might also be able to find some podcasts or stuff on YouTube. Tbh I just got stuck in, had a few things planned out before I got here, tried to keep an open mind, and carried on from there.
When in Rome...

Before you get here: It was useful getting stuff done before coming here. There's enough to worry about with work being different from what we were taught and a new social scene. Got my bank account organised via the internet from the UK (NZ's TSB [not the same as UK TSB] are who I used, helpful and friendly, just had to pop into a branch here to finish opening the accout.). Equally I had a look into getting a phone organised here-but its all off the shelf here, easy as. For all my official documents I asked the practice if I could use their address as my NZ address, which made it much easier to get everything sorted, plus there's always someone to pick up my post.
You're not in Kansas anymore: I got quite home sick around Christmas, but Emma Stuart was here too so we spent it together. A few things from home helped me get through all that, and there are a few English/British shops here so you can get odds and ends when you miss stuff. There's lots of new, interesting stuff to try here though, so it was mostly just a matter of trying the new stuff out, and continuing to do so until one enjoys the country so much that one learns to love it.

NB- PEOPLE AT HOME WILL MISS YOU! Preparing mothers seems to be a necessity, but also all the rest of your family and friends are important. Try not to simply disappear. Go out, see some of Britain, visit as many family & friends as possible, and plan how you're going to stay in touch with them (Skype, Email, YouTube, Facebook, Blog, Parcels). This isn't uni- there are no random long weekends at home to catch up, and Skype time can be limited (because of the time difference). I tried to send some sort of email to my parents & sister everyday, then every other day, then once or twice a week. Doesn't need to be much, just something. Some of you will be great at this, its those of you who, like me, know you're terrible at it, who need to find a way that's simple, fast, and ENJOYABLE. Don't make it a ball & chain. Whilst you're visiting people keep and open mind towards friends of friends who are here. I've found contacting such people, even out of the blue, to be an excellent way to find out about NZ from a mixture of view points. Some of them might even offer you somewhere to stay whilst you're travelling round, & I've met some lovely people this way.
Going Solo: Trinkets sound silly- little figurines or pictures that remind you of home- but they're useful at the end of a crap day. Life's not perfect, you will get tired, sorry to break it to you but you're no Superman/Superwoman, and NZ's in the wrong time zone for simply calling home. Personally I have Rory- the tiger-teddy bear I bought in my first month at uni from a charity shop. He's far too big for any sensible person to bring (about 3ftx1ftx1ft) but I figured I could buy essentials in NZ (its a 1st world country, K-mart & The Warehouse have everything you'll need for cheap). There are a number of solo backpackers have the really good idea of having a sensibly sized teddy bear (perhaps wearing a jacket of your national flag) that they can have in the pictures of things they go see. Makes the pictures personal without having to find someone else (some of the best spots are very isolated) to take it for you (and its not a silly, badly framed selfie). Usual rules apply for going off-piste though, ensure someone knows where you are going, and when to expect you back. Not everywhere here has phone signal, emergency services are not always available. If you want to go a long way into the wilderness alone, one can rent or buy emergency signalling devices that work anywhere. Contact the Department of Conservation for information.
"There's so much room for activities!" Research some things to do and see in my first few weeks, found some groups in Facebook, and talked to a lot of people who had previously been here or had contact in the country. Meant I had things to do outside of work too, without having to plan once here. Find out what you can do nearby wherever you are hoping to be working. The Department of Conservation (DOC) and tourism websites are great for this, generally being well written and with maps etc. There's no Ordnance Survey here, instead its "Topo"- Topographical maps, which are relatively cheap and their website has them all uploaded. I've found them useful for work and play- I've 4 with little notes attached where client's farms are. There's also, of course, myriad books and websites to look at. I had my first week here planned out before I got here so I would keep active despite the jet lag, and it gave me a chance to see what was local to where I would be working.
The most flattering pic of Emma I could find. 
Tongoriro Crossing, Christmas Eve
Jet Lag:
This should be terrible, but the flight was horrendous. I didn't sleep during the 38 hours of flying and being in airports. I arrived at 5pm though, rented a car, drove to a youth hostel, and passed out for 12 hours. After that I woke up feeling fine. I'm sure there's proper ways to deal with it, but nearly dying of sleep deprivation worked for me.
Accommodation:
The later stuff you can work out for yourself, you're a grown up, everyone's helpful, you won't end up being homeless...but for your first few days-
Hostels & "Backpackers" are really nice here, and very cheap. There's a few bad ones out there, so go find some reviews online, and maybe book your first few nights so you're all prepared. Usually locals/staff will be happy to put you up for a wee while though, its just that kind of a society- and if you get the chance go for it, a great way to intro you to Kiwis and their lives.
Also, for when you're travelling, DOC has some beautiful/rustic huts in its parks (voluntary payment), as well as there being "freedom camping"sites, where one can camp or caravan for free. See the DOC website for details.

Who ate all the...:
Basically same as UK, with some USA influence. Take Aways here are basically less than half the price of the UK, and the portions are normal sized (not, I need something to remind me of Christmas dinner sized). This is great for busy days, After-Hours, etc. Fish & Chips for 3GBP! Thai food for 6GBP! Steak & Chips for 8GDP!
Make sure you take up running/walking!
Oh, and NZ loves pies. They are exquisite, and with lots of variety. So, yeh, take up running.
Ooh, and McDonalds (AKA "Maccas")has proper food in this country- including pies, and some decent burgers containing vegetables and the like. Its weird. Take up running.

They also like putting a fried egg and beetroot in stuff, which I love.

Beer:
Some places have Taverns, some Bars, we have Pubs. The beer is something you'll just have to try out. There's no stout, per se, and there's some cultural emphasis on lager, but it all fits in with the environment and the weather.

Emma & I at the Tui Brewery

Sun, Showers, and Sh*t Tonne of Wind:
Depends on where you are, of course, but NZ is, like the UK, and island. So the ocean delivers wind, rain, and humidity. The temperature doesn't change that much, statistically, but the high humidity makes the high 20s feel like 30s. Technically NZ is on the opposite side to Madrid though, so its quite warm all year round. There's the odd bit of snow & hail, and lots up in the mountains, though, so a decent amount of skiing is available, as well as surfing.
Hunting & Fishing:
There's a store here called Hunting & Fishing. Still haven't been. Anyway... people here go hunting and fishing. There's lots of "pests", such as escaped deer and pigs that need eating, and they haven't yet fished out the waters like the EU has. Ergo, if you're into either (or just a "free"meal) go get 'em.
Anything else?
I doubt this will matter to anyone, but its something I find culturally interesting, and still haven't quite got my head around it.
The majority of Kiwis (the people of NZ) are in relationships. As in, nearly all of them-seems to be the given default. Noone I've spoken to quite knows why, its just a thing here, and those of us from Britain have found it kind of weird. I don't know how they all manage to be in relationships (surely you spend sometime being single & looking? or have a freedom break?), but that's how it seems to be.
The only place this isn't true is in the rural South Island, where Emma Stuart was working. Round her there were hardly any women, and lots of guys, so she had pick of the litter. Guys, if you're looking, advice includes, spending time with backpackers, universities, and moving to Auckland. 
Personally I'm just running round enjoying NZ too much to think about it.

Hope that helps some of you, and hopefully I'll see some of you over here one day!



Monday 23 February 2015

Why we were so tired on Monday



Well, Victoria, this is 155km of why:
18 of us from the practice (with various friends, family, and unlucky people we found to "help") ran around the Great Lake at the center of the North Island.

You see that altitude blip at about 130km? Yeh, that up hill section was mine. No, someone else got the down hill.

This is an annual event, with people running around the lake as a team. There are also teams competing as composite teams, walking some legs and running others, or teams can do the length of the lake. Oh, and for the very silly there's always the option to do it all by yourself. Just 1 of those this year. There are a vast array of teams, some participants older than 80, some from local schools, some running as families, some from a company. There were a number of vet and farm related teams running, and we were one of them.

Composite teams start earlier, and length of the lake later, but our event started at 2am, with fellow member of the Farm Vet Dept, Jordan, team organiser, running 14.4km in the pitch black. He was followed by:
Leg 2: Jess - 14.1km
Leg 3: Emma T (Admin) - 10.1km
Leg 4: Vicki - 8.3km
Leg 5: Monica (SA Nurse)- 10.1km
Leg 6: Bex (Farm Tech)- 8.4km
Leg 7: Isaac - 5.5km
Leg 8: Kristina (Farm Vet)- 7.0km
Leg 9: Harley  - 6.8km - I wasn't there- who replaced Charlotte's Harley? He wasn't able to run, but still came to support.
Leg 10: Charlotte (Farm Vet)- 6.9km
Leg 11: Mel - 10.9km
Leg 12: Emma C (proper runner) - 10.2km

And then I arrived!
Yes, my mini-team of 3 had decided to have a restful night at home, sacrificing supporting our friends to ensure good health and adequate energy to get through our sections.

I met Michelle Bloomfield (Lab Tech & pro-supporter) in Halcombe, as well as my fellow runners:
Leg 13: Gary - 8.6km - Michelle's husband to be, farm manager & great guy
Leg 14: Harley T - 7.4km "Dangerous" - Emma T's 16yo son - built for speed, probably for the best on this section with narrow verges.
We all traveled up together, meeting up with everyone else at the check point between Mel and Emma C's legs.

Once there the day filled out into being a jumbled routine of getting in & out of the car to cheer on our team mates, and anyone else running nearby. There were over 200 teams competing, so the road was full of team cars working their way around the lake, supporting everyone through each arduous step. 

This routine was eventually broken for me by:
Leg 15: Will (Farm Vet) - 6.1km
"Run/walk on the right hand side of the road. Flat for 2km to Hatepe then a steep hard climb up the famous Hatepe hill for 2.7km. Flat to finish."
Flat 2km, easy, I even managed to pass a number of people, and managed to not get run over by a tanker on a narrow bridge. This bit was rather pleasant over all, surrounded by exotic forests, running along the road next to the lake. 

It was Hatepe Hill (roughly:"HAH-teh-PEA") that was the killer. Elevation of 140m over 2.7km didn't sound like much when it was suggested, but when I drove up it on the way to Rotorua a fortnight previous I got the idea as my ute struggled to do 80km/h. I saw 1 guy pass me and try to run up it- he was nearly passing out by the top. Instead everyone else power walked it. This was fine by me, as a keen hiker and ex-Scout. All those years of climbing hills and being taught to march came to the fore, and I made steady progress walking up the rugged verge, the trees falling away to be replaced by scrub and brush. A single, superbly fit walker stormed past me- I had a steady, breathless word with him, tried to keep up, then lost him and left behind. 
The best sight throughout was the three cars of the team suddenly appearing by the roadside, Charlotte's Harley offering a gulp of water to keep me going. At first I felt like I should be running with them all watching, but knew it would only hasten my demise- everyone keenly tells you to walk this section. Their support was phenomenal and much appreciated, reminding me of what needed to be done, and telling me I was doing well. It was enough to give me the energy to continue keeping up with two other power walkers- I didn't mind not catching them, but so long as I wasn't falling behind.

Eventually the lip was in sight. At this tipping point I met one of the heros of the race. There were a number of teams of walkers with members who were considerably over weight. Yet they were here steadily making their way around the lake. We never found out if this was part of some program they were all on, but they were doing very well, making an exceptional effort.

I offered words of encouragement as I passed him, then attempted to begin running my last 1.4km. I passed the super-fit walker who had over taken me on the hill, both of us offering congratulations on the other's progress. And then a stitch. The calves already burned from the first 2km, the thighs from the hill. Those who I'd being trying to keep up with on the hill were still ahead of me, also having made a short run. All 3 of us slowed, however, trying to not collapse. Then the marching kicked in. 200m march, the steady drum beat from Scouts pounding in my head, 100m running to make up distance. I vaguely remember team members parked up with more support, offering a gulp of water I could only half keep down. It was enough to get me to run 300m. Great redwoods began to encroach from the distance towards the roads. I over took those I had seen ahead of me on the hill, as they slowed to a steady walk. As the trees finally came up to the roadside, offering cool shade to us, I saw my finish line. I ran the final 300m into the marked area filled with cars and supporters. And finally met Sam with a high five, passing on the labour to him.

Leg 16: Sam - 8.0km - and the steep downhill I'd created. Was going to do it in his farm boots, but Gary convinced him to use his trainers, and got an excellent time.
Leg 17: Alex (Admin) - 4.7km - including hill, Alex had done no training but hammered it out.
Finally, Leg 18: Maggie (SA Nurse) - 7.5km - Our superb team manager took on the final stretch.

We dropped off Harley at the last 1km, so he could run with Maggie and offer support, whilst the rest of us took a short cut to the finish line.

The last 100m were across the local park, and we ran this together, the majority of the team present to support the final finish.

We're still waiting for the official time, but we recon it took 14 hours in total this year- 45 minutes off last year's time!

Some more links for those interested in finding out more:
Official site:  http://www.eventpromotions.co.nz/events/taupo-great-lake-relay/course-information/
Course description:  http://www.eventpromotions.co.nz/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/Course-Description-Great-Lake-Relay-2013-NEW.pdf
Course map:  http://nz.mapometer.com/running/route_3975530.html%20

Afterwards there was prize giving (fastest time was 9 hours!), lots of fatty food, and beers. A member of the Equine Department allowed us use of their wee holiday home, and a short night of team shots and silly banter commenced. I was introduced to Purple Goanna by Gary- a purple vodka & mixer drink containing caffeine that was popular in the 90's. With sore legs, and prepared for sore heads, we slowly wandered off to bed, to rest up for the next day...


When we went WATER-SKIING!
Sam (who's Alex's BF) had brought his boat with him (a number of people here have boats, for fishing or fun), and so we went out onto the lake.
First there was Biscuiting- the name given to holding onto a rubber ring whilst its pulled by the speed boat, as one tries not to die. I was a bit taller than everyone else, so my legs dangled off the back of the Biscuit, enabling me to use my knees as stabilisers, but causing significant bruises on my knees.
Afterwards we tried water-skiing. Tried. I got as far as managing to get up, but still with knees bent. Others were much better than me, especially Emma C and Emma T.

After all this there was the final journey all the way home, which I slept through.

In addition to all this excitement, Kristina and Jordan, along with their partners Isaac and Vicki, had left us all, deciding that the Foo Fighters concert in Auckland would be preferable to the prize giving (no doubt about that, they were right, though it meant they had a very long weekend)
And Tim Scotland, who we'd left to hold the fort was looking after both the farm and small animals.

So that's why we were all a little jaded on Monday. I still had to go out PD-ing though, and got covered in cow sh*t





Saturday 14 February 2015

What I did on my long weekend in Taupo & Rotorua

I'm afraid I'm going to have to serialise last weekend, because it was AWESOME!!!

Last weekend I looked into the deep hot brimstone of the earth, was sufficated by it, soaked in it, inspired by it. I saw that which it has made, is making and was told what it will make. Alongside it was the great mountains and waterways it had made, wonders in themselves. All surrounded by the glorious flora and fauna of New Zealand.

This is a basic over view of the weekend. I will try go over what I saw (with pictures) in later posts. I had managed to get a 4 day weekend, due to a Friday state holiday and Monday as Day In Lieu for working a weekend, so decide to explore north to see NZ's land of fire & lakes.

Friday was Waitangi Day, the holiday to celebrate that on the 6th of February 1840 the Maori became part of the British Empire. There are many debates about the events that happened afterwards and the different translations of the treaty, because afterwards people were still being dicks to one another, it just happened to be "legal"now. This year was the first year when there were not significant complaints by major Maori figures, and the young people are seeing it as the holiday to celebrate the Maori people.

So, having woken up late, prepared late, left late, I eventually traveled north to go to Taupo, the north islands giant central lake. On the 21st I will be part of my practice's team doing a relay around the lake, so will tell you more about the area after that.

Near Taupo I visited Craters of the Moon:
http://youtu.be/8KBl6MK9VpM

And the Huka Falls, which is a large waterfall draining Lake Taupo


I stayed over night in my wee cheap tent at NZ's largest free camping spot. Its known to be noisy, but I thought I'd pitch out the way, until a large group of backpakers and Maoris arrived to talk until 1am. At first it annoyed my, as I was tired, but after having a decent nap for an hour that evening it was entertaining to listen to a big fat Maori guy trying desperately to chat up any backpacker who'd listen to him. 

SATURDAY

I climbed the Rainbow Mountain, at the top of which I met a guy who works at the top with a telescope watching out for wild fires in the local forests. Nice guy, invites people to come up to his watch tower and see the views, whilst offering a cool glass of water. He look pictures of everyone who came and puts them up on a Facebook page (that I presently can't find, but will post if/when I do). 




On the way down I visited the Emerald Pool, where I talked to a couple visiting from Sheffield, and we took pictures for each other.



I visited a place called "Mud Pool"... which is a mud pool, but geothermal!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qv9hmZomUec&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=399FYkMk3YY&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXuzTYt2Bwk&feature=youtu.be


I hadn't particularly planned on it, with the heat etc., but people suggested I go down to Kerosene Creek- a local hot pool out in the forests. The river is all warm, with a wide pool created by a slowly moving (due to erosion) waterfall which is a nice Goldilocks temperature. It is surrounded by beautiful forest, and there are a number of small spots along the river for smaller groups. The only down side is the smell- there is significant Sulfur in the water causing a smell that did remind me of the oil and fuel at vintage tractor shows- hence the name of the creek. The place is lovely, but it took me 3 days, 3 showers, 4 lakes, and 2 hours in non-smelly hot pools before I could get the whiff out of my skin.
Oh, and the other down side is the warning sign about the amoebic meningitis. Don't put your head in the water. It will kill you.




After this I went in search of a proper pool to try clean out the smell. I visited Waikite Valley Thermal Pools- a highly recommended site that I'll tell you much more about later. I wish it was closer to home. Utterly amazing place to go to.
http://www.hotpools.co.nz/

Saturday and Sunday evening I stayed with a vet couple from the UK. It was Amy, one of the vets working at the Edinburgh Dick Vet Farm Department that put me in touch with them. Jules and here husband Gus had spent a year in NZ working as vets, before returning home, working for a while longer, then relocating to northern NZ. Jules is a small animal vet and Gus is a farm vet, so we had plenty to talk about and I had a lot to learn from them. Amazingly wonderful people, great to talk to and lovely hosts.

SUNDAY

Sunday was lakes day, with a minor interlude to watch some people try to raft down the local rapids. (If you come to NZ we MUST do this- looks great fun)

I started with a quick stop at the side of Lake Rotorua



I then spent an hour on a walk that should take 15 minutes- but there was too much to see in just 15 mins! The Okere Falls were the site of NZ's first hydroelectric dam. Since then the dam has been destroyed, then excavated and removed to become an exhibit, and the falls returned to a more natural state. Leaving a place perfect for tourists to try out white water rafting (if they can stay on the raft) surrounded by beautiful high cliff over hung by the tropical forest.






After this I went to Lake Rotoiti, Lake Okataina, and Lake Tarawera, having a quick swim in each of them, and the odd walk/jog in the forests. Given the amount of people about its surprisingly simple to find your own personal, private, beach.

Rotoiti

My private beach at Lake Okataina (beyond the brush was a large area of sand)

The boat landing site at Lake Tarawera

After all this swimming I went to see the local tourist info site and managed to get permission to drive down and see the Tarawera falls. I'll let me explain in the video:

http://youtu.be/K9GQq1Ar-3s

That evening I also spotted this "little"chap - some sort of very flat but large cockroach-thing




MONDAY

Due to having worked a previous weekend I was able to get Monday off, so I could steadily drive home. Or madly rush to see more stuff.

I visited the other end of Lake Tarawera






 Found a Maori monument to a dead chief- such great men are remembered by burying their canoe end in the earth to create a tall obelisk, which then has extra decoration added to it.






 I went past what looks to be an interesting museum. Akin to Pompeii but looking like Beamish, the Buried Village was a settlement built near tourist attractions about 100 years ago. These attractions were based on the geothermal activity, which eventually exploded and buried the village. This has left a site where everything was preserved by mud, to later be uncovered and now on display so that one can learn about the earliest travelers to NZ. I didn't have enough time to see inside, but hopefully if anyone with a Beamish bent wants to visit we can go see this- and the old Gold Mine site further North-West that I didn't have time to go visit.



A cool monument I found celebrating the Maori people's work to share their glorious land with tourists.

The Blue and the Green Lakes




 Finally I had a quick stop in the Redwood forest- which became an hour. The redwood trees originally came from North America to make a new timber trade for NZ. This are, however, was kept as a tourist attraction and is filled with routes for people walking, riding, and mountain biking.

As well as the redwoods, a number of the local fern trees have found a home here.



Tree. Big.

Found a cool little lagoon in the forest





These are the toilets. There were designed by an artist to disguise the facilities, using rusted steel with Maori art designs drilled in. Seems odd to say the toilets look nice, but they do.

Leaving Rotorua, near Taupo I visited the site of a large hydroelectic dam where 5 times a day part of the dam is opened to keep a stretch of the river "alive". The water level rises and little falls grow into torrents.


The place is great for a little walk, with lovely views of the valley.

I also found, around a corner, down an old abandoned roadway, some free food:
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10152789134606977&l=9185868384146794295

Eventually I got a shot of Lake Taupo (sort of, better ones after next weekend)

Then I went to the Army Museum on the way back - didn't have time for the full tour, will do more another time- but they do have lots of tanks and artillery in the car park. I'll post all those photos later.



And I was home in time to repack the ute with vet stuff, unload the exploring stuff, clean some clothes, have Yorkshire Tea, and get a rest before work.

So... that's the short version. I'll try, when I have time, to give more details on the best stuff I saw.

Phew, time for a brew