Day 79: Canoes, Camping, and Campfire games

Monday 22nd February 

Canoeing down the river to see a lake of lilies and some Pelicans. Camping in the forest amongst ants, spiders, and 4 foot long monitor lizards.

Distance: Bus, 60km, canoe, 10km

Total Distance: 12562km

We hammered along the beaches of Fraser Island for over an hour. This brought us back to the barge, over the to main land, down some roads, through more forest, and out to our campsite for tonight. The tents were already set up. The Discovery company, who we'd been with for Fraser Island, use this place as a sort of natural hotel. But with long drop toilets. And no shower.

The afternoon was spent canoeing up the river. We went through more of the landscape of eucalyptus trees, vines, and brush. At one point I spotted a confused looking wallaby staring at us. Other than that, and a few spiders, we didn't spot much wildlife.

Late lunch was served at a small clearing by a jetty. From here we went out on to the lake. A few acres of lilies stretched out before us, small lilac flowers in a variety of stages of opening. We did our best not to disrupt the plants, paddling steadily through a channel, green pads surrounding us.

At the far end was the pelican colony formed around a small island. We paddled across the lake. This took us down, passed a larger island, and we snook up behind the Pelicans. Quietly we moved as a group around them, looking as they sat relaxing on their small trees and rocks. They're big birds, but lean.

Once back in camp we treated ourselves to a eucalyptus, tea tree and tannin infused bath. AKA a swim in the river. It was lovely, warm, and the current near the shore only light. We paddled about chatting as dinner was prepared. Back at camp we made wraps and fracked open our drinks- beers and goons. A goon is Aussie for a bag of wine (there's a bag inside that box of wine you buy). With this combo we had a steady evening of stories and games.

Game one: 

Round one- Name, Most hated housework, Reason

Eg

Ironing, it's tiring, pointless, and I get bored

Washing windows, once you've done the last one you have to go back and start again to keep them all clean

Washing dishes, im a perfectionist and I have to scrub out all the dirt

Laundry, I hate having to fold it all up

Vacuuming, I have 4 Persian cats and you can do it 4 times a day without any improvement

Round two- Name, "I hate sex because...", Reason from round one!

Game two

Modified Mafia/Werewolf, Aussie edition

Gangsters/werewolves- Dingoes

Protector- Paramedic - protects 1 per round

We made a new one- like Detective- Park Ranger - can sneakily wake during night to see Dingoes

There's better descriptions, but in short

Except special positions everyone's backpackers, who go "to sleep" at "night"

During the night the two Dingoes woke and picked a victim to die, then went back to sleep.

Next the Paramedic woke and picked a random person to protect

The Park Ranger could pretend to be asleep but see he Dingoes. However, if caught the Dingoes would, obviously, kill them next.

Come dawn the backpackers found out who was dead and protected. Dead was out. Everyone then discussed (argued) as to who the Dingoes were. We voted for someone and they were vigilante style killed, and we'd get to know what their position was. This did result in many more dead backpackers, but there were plenty to spare. 

The ranger did have some insight but, again, declaring it could lead to Dingoes killing them. Also they could be lying about their status. ie a "ranger" might be a Dingo. They just had to argue really well for a change.

Then the cycle continued until the Dingoes or backpackers won.

After a few games we retreated to our insect-free tents. Just had to be careful in the night- might run into a real dingo on the way to the toilet! Or in my case a 4ft long cousin of the monitor lizard

Day 81, 82, & 83: Sailing the Whitsundays

Wednesday 24th, Thursday 25th, Friday 26th, February 

Took boat out sailing, no swimming, just chilling

Nachos

Distance:

Total Distance:

For two nights we lived aboard the British Defender, an ex-racing yacht.

We arrived at the quay mid afternoon. Thus our first day was a short one on our yacht. Sails were hoisted up the mast, volunteers helping by manning the winches. Under sail power we steadily moved out into the islands.

The Whitsundays sit at the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef. They are each green forested islands with coves, beaches, and surrounded by reefs. That night we would be staying in one of the coves. However, as with the following night, no swimming was allowed. The currents can run fast and aren't obvious. Though being swept away turns out to be just one more potentially lethal risk in these waters.

From the galley nachos appeared. We busily put them away as the rain closed in. Once it had fully arrived though canvas had been spread out from the boom (horizontal bit that sticks out of the mast). We were in a giant swag! After last night we made a few jokes as we ate the rest of dinner.

The next morning we set sail for Whitehaven cove. Here the sand is insanely pure. It's perfectly white. It reflects nearly all of the sun's heat, leaving it constantly cool, whilst threatening to tan your chin. This is due in part due to the singular source of the sand. A pure granite under the water that has been eroded away to form all the sand. This has been followed by thousands of years of washing of the sands by the sea removing impurities. The sands are shifted every day- no two trips here are the same.

This is also a sight for juvenile sharks, sting rays, and turtles. We saw one turtle as we moored on the far side of the island. At Whitehaven itself we saw one large sting ray-someone nearly stood on it despite our best efforts to ensure everything heard us coming. There were also a number of lemon sharks- so called due to their yellow colouring. Don't worry, they're less than a metre in length.

We were also, sort of, watching out for jellyfish. 

After the mandatory human pyramid, being cleaned with the world's purest sand, and checking out the little hidden beach, we got rain! It didn't last long. Just enough to make us retreat back to our depot of packs and gear. Group photo. Find the two absentees. Back to boat we go.

That afternoon I got to try out something I've been wanting to do for years. Most of the group went out snorkelling. Doing this was cheaper (gear was on our yacht) and gave them more time in the water. But I wanted to try out Scuba diving. An introductory course to try it out is being run by a company in the islands. We took mini British Defender over to their boat. It was filled with tanks and apparatus. Time to   become a dolphin. 

Jumping in involved standing on a small ledge of steel overhanging the watery abyss. Which worryingly reminded me of Bungy jumping . But without the plummet of 134m into a rocky stream. Which was nice.

Some people struggled with the fact that we had to solely breath through our mouths. It took some getting used to. I'm not sure I was doing it right- slow steady in, slow steady out. Like meditative breathing. However, I did have some buoyancy issues. As in my feet were at a level with everyone else's heads. We sort of solved this by the instructor putting a large camera in my pocket. Wasn't perfect though. I'll ask for more weights next time- I was on +8kg this time.

The visibility here isn't great at this time of year. The currents are wrong and there's lots of plankton in the area. Still it was an opportunity to try it out, whilst seeing the reef. We did see a lot of fish, some less than technicolour coral, but nothing too dangerous. I'd love to do a proper training course and be able to come back and see more of the reef. It gets much better as one travels further into it, apparently. Maybe another year.

That evening we had a costume party. We'd bought lots of fluorescent clothes, glow sticks, and I both a knock off lightsaber. Wonder what e other boats in the bay thought of us? Light show, loud music, some seamanly drinking. We had a great time of it. Then the yoga mats wre brought out and a few of us set up to sleep on the deck under the stars.

In the morning the boat set off, despite a lack of wind, bright and early. It was our last morning. We were set to make it count.

Being at the southern extent of the Great Barrier Reef there's some excellent spots for snorkelling. Having been to just one yesterday it would be a sate not to go to another. Turtles, parrotfish, soft coral, hard coral, and a multitude of tiny fish. All out by a sandy peninsula. 

Why did we have to leave for Ailisle Beach???

The afternoon was free. We slept, did laundry, hunted for wifi, and ran between the wonderful cover of air con. It was a humid 38C. What fun we had.

The hostel was an interesting cooperative resort run jointly by two of Austrilasia's largest hostel companies. Base and Nomads run nearly all of the larger hostels I've had to stay at- some are amazing and characterful, some are huge and sterile. In this one there were a number of little houses, seperated into apartments, each with a patio or balcony. There were a number of small pools, birds and flying foxes hanging around, the odd gecko feeding of the insects. If it wasn't for the heat it would be a lovely place.

We left at 4:20am...Day 84 was terrible....

Day 80: Nigh under Aussie style canvas...mostly

Tuesday 23rd February

Staying our (most of) the night in swags

Rain!

Distance:

Total Distance:

We began today with a quick canoe down the river before breakfast. It seemed like a great chance to actually get some exercise before we got on our transport for the day. 6 hours on a train. In Britain this would be a terrible prospect. Here it's great! Like a plane but with bigger seat. And leg room. And I may have brought a sweet white wine goon as a friend.

After many hours of reading and a nap we were still an hours bus ride from the night's stop. We were going to a cattle station for the night. Here the plan was to eat beef stew, tell stories by the camp fire, have a relaxing night in Australian swags, and the following morning go down to the hobby farm. We managed the first two, then things fell apart.

The cattle station is out in the Australian wilds, surrounded by bush and pasture. Our campsite had a small dorm shed and a large barn. Within the barn were our bathrooms and cooking facility- a charcoal fire. Beef stew had been prepared here for us, along with damper- a beer based bread that tastes like British dumplings. We ate by the campfire, roasted marshmallows, chatted, then began to prepare for bed.

In one of the Scandanavian countries (I forget which) someone has had a "revolutionary" idea. Why carry a tent, sleeping mat, and a sleeping bag? Why not roll them all into one? And so that's what they've done. They will be on sale shortly, made of the most modern, high tech, light weight materials. 

But it's not "revolutionary". The Aussies did it first. The swag was invented a long time ago as stockmen travelled across the land on farms the size of countries (and not small countries). A simple and straight forward design. A canvas sleeping bag, foam padding in the bottom, one pole to hold open the end, 2 guide ropes to hold the pole up, and a fly net to keep out the locals. Nifty, eh?

The Scandanavian design does win out on two fronts compared to our swags though. Our old school swags were big and heavy. There's better available now, but these old ones were carried on trucks and horses. I wasn't going to lug it across any landscape with a rucksack on as well. Also ours were "water resistant", not "waterproof". Doesn't rain much here. Why would you be out in the wet season? As I say, modern improvements have been made. But we didn't have them.

At 11pm we lay in the dark looking up at the stars. The sky was clear, the breeze cool, and most of us had taken the top of the swag. We lay there on the foam and slept.

It was around 3am that I was worked by a spattering of water on my face. Rain! Around me others woke as well. Poles were hastily re-erected and we hid under our canvas. Safe from the wee bit of rain. Until drips began to make their way through my canvas. The rain stopped. A little wat wasn't an issue. We went back to sleep.

Boom! Whoosh! 5am arrived in a torrential downpour. I didn't feel it this time. I was simply awoken by the sound. Yeh, being brave would have been fine. Stay there, get a little wet, manage the full night. Yet breakfast was at 6am. I watched as just about everyone ran, dragging their swag, into the barn. Sod this, I jumped out and pulled my bed with me.

From inside we could watch as the rain fell in a manner rarely seen here. All of us but our new Katie. An Irish lass she slept through the whole thing. I guess that sort of rain is the daily minimum for the Emerald Isle.

Breakfast was bacon, eggs, and baked beans. As we ate our host announced that we weren't able to go the the farm. With all of the rain over night and tracks being mud roads there was no way to get us in and out. It had become a quagmire. No one seemed particularly distraught. Instead we would be having a more relaxed trip out to our next stop. A yacht! On the Whitsundays!

Day 78: Fraser Island

Sunday 21st February 

4x4 Warrior- a truck with huge wheels and passenger compartment- onto Fraser Island via the barge.

World's largest sand island, explore beaches, forest, rainforests, lakes, native and industrial history, ship wreck, and then some rain!

Distance: 370km

Total Distance:12492km

Having taken a bus out of Brisbane we were met by our formidable transport, a Warrior 4x4. Designed and built in Scandinavia it has been modified with larger tyres and a passenger compartment so that one can travel up and over and sand one sees fit. Thus we went over the sandy peninsula and out to the barge. A steel craft in green, simple, stout, a ramp at either end and enough deck to fit us alongside a troop of Utes and Land Rovers. We were twice the height of anything there. And twice the length. And somewhat wider too. After a very short journey of 15 minutes we disembarked on Fraser Island, the world's largest sand island.

I was expecting a giant sand bank, maybe a few palm trees, some bushes. It's far larger than that! We hit the local highway, generally known as a beach, and passed dense forests. This carried on for over an hour. Sandy beach. Waves from the Pacific. A forest built on sandbanks.

Eventually we reached the one town on the island. There are a few tourist enclosures here, but this is the only town, though it mostly caters for the tourist trade. We passed over an electrified cattle grid and high fences. These aren't to keep livestock in or out. These are for the Dingoes.

The Australian Dingo has been on the continent for around 4000 years. Descended from south East Asian wolves it somehow got here. Over time it became its own species, a dog-like hunter and scavenger. Fraser Island has around 200 patrolling the beaches, forests, and lakes. They are something of an asset for the tourist trade. But also a danger. Whilst this is perhaps the best place to see a wild dingo one does want to be careful. They have been known to be aggressive, especially with a history of feeding. Settlements and picnic area have the fences, gates, and grids to keep them out. The grids had to be electrified as dingoes are (obviously) smarter and more nimble than cattle.

We left town to go up to Lake Mackenzie. There are three types of lake in the island. Window lakes- holes in the sand that are deep enough to be below the water table. Dams- were a shifting dune has moved over the path of a creek (sand beavers!). Finally depressions- on dunes some of the sand can be scooped out. If this bowl filled with enough debris an impermeable layer can form preventing rain water from falling through the sand. Without an outflow the area fills. This is Lake Mackenzie. A blue lagoon atop a dune, surrounded by a dense forest of brush and tall, straight trees. The water goes down to 12 metres at its deepest. With no inlet/outlet virtually nothing lives in the waters, though this also makes pollution a real risk- nothing gets washed away. Amazing place though, beautiful clear warm waters. The shore is also made up of fine white sand. Apparently it's rejuvenating to smear it on you skin. Forgive me for laughing at the 3 spoilt brats we have in the group. You know the sort, won't join group games, communicate in snide comments, can't possibly get dirty. They were sat on the shore liberally plastering themselves in this stuff whilst the rest of us played in the waters. 

We stopped off at Central Station next. This has once been the centre of custom built railway for getting timber from the centre of the island. The timber here was both incredibly unusual and valuable- for 30 years no one in the trade even believed the reports of trees growing so well on a sand island. That sand prevents the trees having a solid foundation. They are therefore forced to grow in such a manner as to keep nearly all of their weight perfectly centred above the point they grow from. The trunks run straight and tall without imperfections. Long straight timbers can thus be cut from them. One of the trees was even found to be from the terpentine family. The compounds within it prevent rotting even when left underwater for long periods. This makes it valuable for creating docks and waterways, though it is much heavier and harder to harvest. Once found it was used in a rebuild of London docks and to line the Suez Canal. It's still there now.

At the station we had a walk around. They've built replica of the woodman's family homes. There some of the wheels they used on the tracks- they had to be wider, as did the tracks, to prevent the lines sinking into the sand. A board walk leads through the forest. Out guide explained the trees, plants, and history of the place. We passed a few walkers too. Would be a nice lace to come walking. It's possible to walk from one end of the island to the other. Only takes 7 days. Then you have to walk back. I wonder if there's a water taxi you can get?

Back down to the beach and the rain came in! It started thundering down at us, lashing against the bus. We were introduced the the local ship wreck. She's an steel ship used as a luxury craft between Sydney and NZ, then a hospital ship during the war, an after a few years back at home before being sold as scrap, lost in a storm, deposited here, then used as target practice by the military forces. Exciting life story! Now mostly under the sand we could just see the rusted remains in the whistling wind and fierce rain. Still, I'd been swimming, so was already for getting wet!

The rain didn't relent at our penultimate stop either. Just a little creek for us to slowly paddle down. Only a few of us were again in the rain. It was actually beautiful and pleasant slowly swimming down through the overhanging vines and brush as he rain patterned down. Rain? It's only going to make things better! Can you tell I'm from Britain?

Out accommodation for the evening was at a place called Happy Valley. Beyond the dingo fences were a number of small houses and the pub we'd be staying at. I love staying at pubs- don't even have to walk home. Still, we were all knackered by 8pm. It was only by group effort that we decided to stay up until 9. Thank goodness we did. I got chatting to our driver-guide. Great guy. Used to be a zoo keeper. Then he helped breed reptiles for zoo collections. Helped out on croc farms at times. Done wildlife work. Owns a number of lizards and snakes now, his wife has alpacas, plus there's the dogs and cats. Great guy. Even if he did play us 70s disco throughout the day.

Day 77: To Bris-ney Land!

Saturday 20th February 

Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary at Brisbane

We fed the kangaroos!!!

Distance: 181km

Total Distance: 12122km

In the morning we drove the long distance from Byron Bay (why are we leaving this place?!?) to Brisbane. From here we'd be leaving behind some members of the team behind (Good Bye Katie, enjoy Oz, I'll come find you in the UK!), but got two new ones (Hello Katie, welcome to the team!)

The main most important activity of the day though was the wildlife sanctuary! The main stars at Lone Pine Koala Reserve have their name on the door. They're cute and cuddly, don't move much until new leaves are added (then they move like cats after nip), and had a million photos taken of them.

We had a quick lunch before splitting into smaller groups to explore. Lone Pine isn't a huge place. It takes maybe 15-20 minutes to get across the public site. Yet the space is actually mostly a pastoral reserve for the kangaroos, with a couple of emus thrown in for company. We bought some kangaroo pellets with lunch then went off to pet roos.

We all had a great time split up amongst the various groups of grazing, sleeping, and playing kangaroos. One youngster bounded over the short grass of the hill from his shade under the eucalyptus tree at the sound of my paper bag. Having fed him I tentatively introduced myself to a mother with a large joey collapsed in her pouch-only hind feet and tail protruding-resting under the shade. I sat down alongside her. She ate hungrily, nearly finishing the bag. That was until the large buck arrived. He came bounding over from the other side of the enclosure, over the shallow hill, and slowed just as his head reached my hand. He wolfed down anything he could get is mouth around. I was a little worried about what he would make of it when I'd run out. Yet I didn't even feel a lived to show him the empty bag, he merely accepted it and chose to move on. To his other hunger for love. We all looked on as he tried to make moves on the mother with joey. Anyway...

We enjoyed watching and feeding them. Their heads look a bit like hares or rabbits, but elongated like a horse. Watching them move was interesting. It's one thing to see the YouTube videos, another to see them really swing their tails for balance in a corner or a whole mob pass across the face of a hill. Of the two emus on was grumpy, but the other one people could stroke its neck.

After a long time here we moved on.

Wombats, fat, round, sleeping on their backs, moving whilst dreaming.

Tasmanian Devils fighting for territory, then going off in a huff before having a bath.

Dingos

Many, many, birds

Platypus!!! One sitting quietly, the other doing laps of the tank.

I'll do a better run down another day. For now, it was amazing.

Day 76: Byron Bay

Friday 19th February 

Sea kayaking cancelled, chilling in Byron Bay

Distance: Walking, 6km

Total Distance: 11941km

Today's Sea Kayaking was cancelled due to weather warnings. I don't mind too much- Byron Bay's an amazing place and we were all happy to have a day to chill out here. Our rainforest glamping enclave was hot and humid so Katie, a Brit, Sarah, of the USA, and I, no known residence, took a stroll down to the beach.

Here the waves were thick and fast- time for a swim! I joined a huge gang of random guys doing something that looked like body boarding but without the board. We'd jump over or swim under little waves getting out and waiting for something larger. Then try to paddle back in fast enough to catch the wave. The times I managed to properly catch the wave were amazingly fun. I might be starting to like beaches!

Once I was tired and dirty it was time to come in. A little dry off time then I wanted to be off- I'm not keen on burning under the strong sun here and I've got a blog to write for you lovely people. Katie wanted a shower so we left Sarah to brown, returning to ByronStock.

By 4pm I was kind of hungry and had been advised to try a Portugese chicken burger joint. Here I found Sarah and we took our succulent meaty treat down to the park. Here, surrounded by people who've maintained Peace & Love mantras since the 60's, and their paduwan learners, I've caught up on the blog. Next up, Yorkshire Tea at the hostel, some reading, them Thai food with the crew, and maybe a paint party. Wish me luck! :)

Day 75: Learning to Surf and the Coolest Hostel in Byron Bay

Thursday 18th February 

I learned to surf! I was amazing! LOL

Distance: Bus, 109km, on a surfboard...~5 feet?

Total Distance: 11826km

Today we were moving out and going surfing! But first we needed breakfast.

Across Australia there are small, beautiful, parks in each township. Many of these, in addition to public toilets and drinking fountains, have public barbecues. They look like a cube made out of brick, with a steel top and a rain cover. This one was beside a river, under the trees, with a circuit box to one side. The circuit box had sockets. We had a kettle. Time for tea!

The public barbecues are gas and the top gears up. We covered them in oil, heated, then threw on bacon and eggs. Breakfast of champions, greasy sandwiches for breakfast followed by watermelon. The barbecues are a great idea and very helpful. Yet they wouldn't work in the UK. Our guide pointed out that they'd get trashed or never cleaned (we cleaned this one thoroughly). I'd like to add that we get so few barbecue days in the UK there'd be a queue. Better to have those disposable barbecues- provided no one sets the bins on fire when disposing of them, as used to happen when I lived in Edinburgh. 

We joined Mojo Surf School at a bay south of Byron Bay. We stretched out all of life's problems and knots in our muscles before we felt hip and cool enough to challenge the surf. Then we clambered around on the sand and over our boards getting the low down on surfing 101. With our rudimentary knowledge we were let lose onto a specific portion of the ocean. For two hours were tried to catch waves and get up, without going to hospital afterwards. At times we had to shift position to ensure we were in the lifeguardable zone for our hosts. Then, one by one, our teachers gave us pointers to improve our game. 

I really enjoyed it! I needed the pointers, but I kept at it. Getting up the few times I did was exhilarating, even though each time I knew I wasn't getting it quite right. The sea was quick to point out my failing and dump me into the water after a few yards. Still, even as I tired (and it is tiring), I tried to get what I could out of experience. I'll have to try it again in the future. I'll never be good, but it's a fun activity to try out.

Afterwards we washed off in the brown, tannin filled, wars of the fresh water lake. It was cool and pleasant. The colour and tannins come from the trees and leaves that fall in the feeding rivers. Supposedly the tannins are very good for you- as they are from tea and red wine. Paddle, wash, dry, then we were off to Byron Bay.

At Bryon Bay our guide took us up the the lighthouse, past some of the most expensive neighbourhoods. He has an ex who has an uncle up here. I wonder if she's still available? Would have to be cougar though, I guess.

Our hostel was the coolest, most hippie hostel I've ever seen! It was used in the film Inbetweeners 2, as backdrop to scream "new age" "hippie" "gap yaah" and "exotic". I can't decided if I love it, or if I merely find it thoroughly entertaining. I'll have to come back for a long holiday to find out.

The main complex has a reception, travel agents, cafe, juice bar, bakery, games room, kitchen, beads, bracelets, and necklace stand. Beyond this is the swimming pool, dorm rooms, beach volleyball court, hammocks, didgeridoo lessons, surfboard repairman, green tropical lagoon, rainforest, and yoga/meditation/card reading workshop area. At the top of the hill is the Mojo Surf School camp site. Outside the hostel is a brewery that also does decent food.

Far behind the hostel is the campsite- it's an education to walk around. "Zero tolerance on marijuana" is obviously being challenged. There are tents on top of tents. Some are huge, some tiny. National and Buddhist flags abound. Plants have been planted and grown. It's like a British festival that's gone on too long. I walked around it casually enough to look like I might belong, rather than looking like a tourist taking a touristy tour of tourists. Talk about meta.

I walked around back to our glamping site deep in the rainforest. The hostel has these tents built as dorm rooms. Like polytunnels (the long white tunnels of plastic they use to grow soft fruits like strawberries), but with heavy coloured plastic, and a canvas building inside, each end solidly build with glass doors. They're lovely- although we have a moat of smelly lagoon water.

The bush turkeys and water dragons deserve a mention too. They're just about, chilling, looking out for scraps and picking up the sun. The dragons range from little ones that would fit in my hand to big guys the size of my arms. I like them- some of the girls are not so keen.

Day 74: Driving to Yamba for the beach

Wednesday 17th February 

Hung over, drove...drove...drove...food in the mountains, down to the beach for a swim

Distance: 430km

Total Distance: 11735km

Mildly hung over we spent much of today driving towards Yamba. The township has been awarded Australia's "Most Beautiful Township" award and is viewed as the next place to grow into significance. 

I can sort of see why people are moving here. It's a nice place. Decent beaches (mind the jellyfish), there's a harbour for all of the fishing boats. The countryside is lush and green from having enough rain (unlike some of Oz). We passed through large fields of sugar cane which is processed locally and exported in huge amounts.

The afternoon was spent on Yamba beach. A few went swimming in the sea until someone got a light jellyfish sting. I got out my miniature kite to play around with as the girls took to sunbathing.

Eventually there was just my German mate, Hendrick, and I left. At one end on the beach there's a sea water pool- a place to swim free of jellyfish! We went to do a few laps, but ended up in the defense pool. With the tremendous waves this beach gets the pool should get swamped every 5 seconds. Instead there's a crenalated wall which reduces the waves power. Behind this is a small pool into which the waves fall, dropping their debris as they lose power. Then a thick, low level wall before the main pool. This keeps the swimming pool relatively flat and clear. It also means there's a poo, full of warm, fresh, sea water that bubbles away- like a spa pool. We joined an Australian couple to enjoy the refreshing, healing, relaxing properties of several tons of the Pacific Ocean pushing us up against the dividing wall a few times a minute.

For dinner I tried the local Fish and Chips. Not as good as NZ or the UK! Someone must be doing it wrong, I'll have to try again elsewhere. Equally the beer was good, but not good enough to aid my pool playing. The guide and I won again, but I just wasn't getting my shots in.

We did have a decent chat at dinner though. All the phones were piled in the middle of the table so people would stop worshipping them. After this everyone opened up more. Nothing like proper civilised conversation on an evening.

Day 73: Wild West day! Gold panning and horse riding

Tuesday 16th February 

Gold mining (found a tiny flake), horse riding on a psychopath, then pub chat with the local farmers.

Distance: Bus, 200km

Total Distance: 11305km

Another early start so we could get to a small gold mine run by an old Australian and a few backpackers. A few bits for our barbecue lunch were bought, including some kangaroo meat. Kangaroo tastes like beef but has to be medium rare at most. Cooked for any longer it becomes too tough. It's also cheaper than beef so a lot of people use it as a substitute in meals such as stir fries.

At the mine we had a practice using pans whilst looking for crystals from some local dirt. After lunch we moved on to gold dirt. We cleaned out the soil, swirled the pans, and I found a tiny flake! It's not much, but it was a start. Others found small nuggets and flecks, but my luck was out. I can sheep shear, I can't pan gold. We kept what we each found. The mine owner showed us some of his finds, from flecks to some big chunks. There's 3 million dollars under his house, about 1000 ounces. It'll take a while to get through but he's in no rush enjoying the outdoor lifestyle.

We went on to Bangara, a small township of farmers. Here there's a stables which helps breed and train horses for the New South Wales police, apparently. The horses weren't as big as the ones I've seen the British police use.

The girls each got given a horse first. With one guy not doing it there were only two guys left to place.

"Who's feeling adventurous?", of course my hand went up, "ooh, me!"- I am such a child at times.

"You can have Meg then, she's a bit feisty, likes to be at the front.

The next two hours were spent trying to control my mount, stopping her getting ahead of the group leaders and preventing her getting so close to the horse in front that she might receive a kick or not see one of the holes or branches on the tracks. We steadily got the hang of one another and towards the end I let her out for a wee canter. She seemed happy enough at the end, hanging around for a scratch and pat.

On the trek we followed the river down, crossing it twice. Half way along we were invited in by some locals. They'd rescued 3 young koalas and kept them in a small enclosure in the backyard. One was under the umbrella eating as we arrived, looking very confused as 14 horses arrived to stare at it. The koala's mates were both at the top of one of the enclosures trees, barely visible. They were quite big for youngsters, maybe the size of a large cat.

That evening we all hung out with the locals in the pub, where we were staying.  Our guide and I paired up to take on the whole pub at pool. He's much better than me, but I kept up at times so came out winning. Afterwards I taught some of the girls to play and set them up playing against the locals-which was fine until someone potted the black instead of her last ball. Good fun. We had a few more drinks, took it outside, and I chatted life and farming with a few farm hands and managers as others tried to chat up the girls. This went on for so long that the pub doors were locked behind us! Thankfully as I rattled a door in drunken optimism my room mate was passing to let me in. I could have gone back to get the last two girls in, but they seemed to be happily getting on exceedingly well with the locals. I left them to it. They'd find a way in if they needed to.

Day 72: Wine Tasting in the Hunter Valley

Monday 15th February 

Early start to get some proper drinks in!

Distance: Bus, 520km

Total Distance: 11105km

We were up at 5:30am to get the bus out of Sydney. You'd think it would be so we could get out before the rush hour traffic. Actually it was so we could got get a drink!

We stopped off on the north side of the harbour bridge for a light breakfast of fruit juice and cereals. We took a few photos and watched some huge ships navigate their way under the bridge.

It took a few hours to get out of Sydney. We were heading for the Hunter Valley, a wine producing area north of the city. The landscape of brown grass and green trees was replaced by row upon row of grape vines recently harvested interrupted occasionally by wineries. We found ours beyond a wedding venue and a concert arena, a building on a small hill with two wings and elaborately carved doors.

Inside we were treated to a number of not very appetising wine- but I'm not much of a wine fan, so what do I know? It's alcohol, that's what I know. Hence I got a spot next to the spare glass. Who's a clever boy? I am! Hick!

Whoever decided to send a bunch of strangers who would soon ba a team on a mini booze up first thing was a genius. Light headed everyone soon got chatting with far more vigor than previously. We soon found our banter and prattled away on the bus.

We had a little stop at the First Fleet memorial. This commemorates the men who came on the first fleet (let's not mess about with the names, eh?) to colonise the country for the British Empire. Most of them were convicts, no longer able to be sent to North America after the War of Independence. The fleet landed on what is now Australia Day, Invasion Day to the aboriginal people, which seems a fair name. However the fleet didn't so much invade as nearly starve to death. The land couldn't support European...It would be saved by the Second Fleet which would arrive nearly two years later, bringing more convicts, food, and women. The Second Fleet didn't so so well during the voyage though. The first had cost around £140 per convict to the government. The second was sold out to a group of ex-slavers who promised to do the same journey for less than £40 per convict. They crammed the men in, keeping them chained up with minimal food and water. Around 1/3 died. Some suggest this was the idea-with fewer convicts making it to Australia the fleet had more food to trade at the new colony.

That evening we were staying at an old sheep shearing shed, now a rural events centre for  weddings and tourist groups. Some of our group thought it odd to want to get married in a sheep shed. Welcome to the countryside! Here we had a display off sheep shearing and even a try at it. The sheep were all last seasons lambs rather than the ewes which should have all been shawn at the start of summer. This meant they were lighter-useful when the 3 guys in the group had to carry them up the steps into the shed. It was very interesting for those who've never seen this kind of work before. I grew up with it being done each summer at home. Yet I've never used an electric hand piece (basically big hair clippers), only shears (big scissors). So I had my turn and was declared "very good" and "a natural" in the somewhat surprised tones of our host. Got myself a new trade! 😎🐏🐑

Day 71: Sydney Harbour Bridge Climb, Harbour Jet Boat, Meeting the tour group

Sunday 14th February 

I climbed to the top of the Sydney Harbour Bridge! View was amazing!

Then off round the harbour in a jet boat, which as well as great fun gave great views of the harbour.

(Bit silly, it being my last day, doing the two activities which would have given me the best overview of the city. Do them and do them first!!!)

Then down to Base Hostel to meet up the the group I'll be spending nearly a month travelling around Australia with.

Distance: Bus, 6km, Walking, 6km

Total Distance: 10585km

This morning started with a nice casual stroll up on of the tallest structures in Sydney: The Sydney Harbour Bridge. "Bridge Climb" runs out of the Large spaces under the approach to the south side of the bridge. Here we were given light weight suits of hard wearing material covered in clips and clasps. We looked dandy all in matching blue- like a bizarre Star Trek crew. My sun glasses were attached to the back of the suit via a string and clasp. We were given baseball caps, also attached to the back of my shoulder. Due to the potential for runny noses given the winds atop the bridge each of us received a blue hanky to be bound to our wrist and slipped into our sleeves. 

The climbing belt was placed over our heads and fixed around the waist. From it hung the safety line which would keep us, at all times, attached to the bridge rail. We practiced using it on an assembly of steps. Finally the radios were attached at the back of the belt, wires clipped to the back of our shoulders along with headphones. These would allow our guide to talk to us despite any weather or traffic interference. 

That was all we were allowed. No cameras, no phones, no GoPro. The bridge goes up to 134m - the height of my second Bungy jump in New Zealand. Drop something from that height on to a person below and the results will appear on the evening news. This is taken so seriously that there is a metal detector to go through after one has put the suit on. 

Gear in place our troop of 12 left 5 minutes after the group in front, 5 minutes before the group behind. We walked under the road way, some 30m above the park land and water, across iron girders and wooden platforms.  We passes around the granite pylons that stand at either end of the bridge. They look like they should be helping in some structural manner. They're not. The architect purely put them there for decoration, to make the bridge look sturdy and imposing. Within they are primarily reinforced concrete, given a dressing of rough granite only on the external surfaces. Beyond these were the actual foundations of the bridge. Enormous nuts and bolts held the iron in place, locked into the structures beneath. The metal work here has been the first to undergo treatment with a new substance - a plastic that unlike paint will not peel nor wear. It should keep the bridge work safe and rust free for TWO CENTURIES!!! That's how long they think the bridge will safely last for, if not three centuries. And they won't even need to reapply it, apparently.

We then reached the area where we would be climbing stairs, right next to the roadway. Our route would be enclosed in a steel cage designed to keep us safe. Didn't stop some worrying, however, with the sound of cars and trucks flying past their heads. This climb didn't take long though and we were soon onto the bridge's suspension arch.

At the time of construction the bridge was of a new design and was the largest of its kind. An arch was built over the harbour. Suspension girders were then added and the roadway attached below. The design can hold a large amount of weight whilst being relatively simple- all iron girders and rivets. Still took a long time to build though.

It was built to accept the growing size of the city. It includes two train tracks, six lanes for traffic, a walkway and a cycle path. Thus even as the city grow from a provincial port to a centre for business it has continued to keep up with people's expectations. 

The design of the arch means that as one ascends the gradient becomes less. We began on a stair way, then occasional steps, then flat iron. We'd made it to the top! From here, by the flags of Australia and New South Wales, we could see as far as the Blue Mountains and nearly all of Sydney. Most importantly the Opera House- a building designed to be exactly half the height of the bridge so as to a proportional aesthetic. Our guide had a camera attached to his belt and took a few photos of us in the warm Aussie sun.

Most bizarrely at the top though was the Japanese party that seemed to be going on. One group of about 8 was stood on a special platform, infront of a screen, singing into a microphone. They do karaoke on top of the bridge during the day! Couldn't do that in Britain- we need a decent stint at a bar before we'll ever give karaoke a try. Annoyingly they breathalyse everyone before the climb. Guess we'll just be leaving it to the Japanese for now then.

The way down was the same but on he opposite site, down past the railway instead of the highway, and back under the granite pylons. Here we heard about the 16 men who died in the bridges construction. Only 10 were at the bridge- others were at such places as the steel works and the granite mine. One mine worked got his thumb stuck between two blocks, it got infected, and he died when treatment came too late. There was one man who fell from the bridge and survived. He had been a diver in his youth, along with a construction coworker. They'd worked out a plan for if they fell off the bridge. Into the water feet first or head first, took in, hope for the best- because at the height they'd fall from impact would be like hitting concrete. Thankfully he somersaulted and went feet first. He was under water for over a minute. He came up eventually, saved by a passing boat. The stitching of his boots had split and risen up to his thighs. A few scraps and scratches he was back in work 20 days later. Tough guy!

Sydney Harbour by Jet Boat

Having seen Sydney from on high now I'd see it from the water. The boat left from next to the Opera House and went out towards the exit of the harbour. The place was filled with all manner of boats- from merchant ships and the grand cruise liners right down to people's personal speed boats and even kids being tough to sail in toppers- 1 person sail boats the size of a bath. I learnt to sail in one of them, they're great fun. Not so sure in a busy port though.

We saw islands, forts, the houses of the rich and famous, and the back of the zoo. All the while our pilot pulled the boat through spins and sudden stops, getting us all soaked in the questionable harbour water. Additionally it was all done at tremendous speeds- open water allowed them to be far faster than we'd gone in canyons of NZ. It being Valentines Day there were multiple couple on the boat- an interesting choice of date. 

The boat was actually a great way to see the harbour- I wish I'd done it on my first day there. The same with the bridge climb, was a magnificent sight of what the city had to offer.

That evening I met the 17 women and 3 guys I'd be spending the next week with to Byron Bay. The gender gap was like being back in Veterinary School! We met up at a hostel, went for food and drink in a local pub, and socialised with new friends.

Day 70: On the beach with old mates

Saturday 13th February 

Going to Coogee Bay with mates from my university days

Distance: Bus, 4km

Total Distance: 10573km

I've been staying with Chris, an old flatmate I lived with at uni in Edinburgh. Here's been here for just over a year doing an internship. One of our other friends from uni, Cannon, is from Sydney but now lives in the UK. However this weekend he was visiting so we organised to spend a day catching up on the beach.

We met up by Coogee Beach- near to where a lot of the British in Sydney live. It was another hot day so Chris decided to go by us a beach umbrella. At the store the young spaniard informed him "no refunds, no returns". This did confuse us for a while, but it would entertain us all day. 

We went down to the beach for a few hours to catch up and chat about life after uni, as well as tell the same old time honoured jokes. It was great to have a catch up- we haven't seen much of any of our uni mates since graduation. Thus we also got into ideas for when we're all back to reunite the flat for a weekend. (A heads up if you're reading guys!)

All this time the wind picked up and died. Picked up, died. Picked up, died. Then picked up and took the umbrella with it! I ran down the beach proclaiming "sorry, sorry, sorry!!!" to everyone it hit as it tumbled across the sand. Eventually it settled on a man who'd just been struck in the face by it. I apologised then ran away before he could complain. Two to the struts inside were bent, but it still worked. We had problems with it for the rest of the day too, but tied it down with bags enough to not be so embarrassed again.

The rest of the afternoon we alternated between swimming and chatting, went to the local Mexican restaurant, and found some of Cannon's local friends who we ate dinner with. Later, as the sun began to set, Chris got a volleyball and we practiced on the slowly cooling beach. We're not very good. After a few apologies as the ball flew off towards people and needing time to get home we eventually said good bye. It'll be at least another 6 months before we might see each other again. But today was a lovely day.

Day 67-68: Out into the Countryside with a vet and 2 students

Wednesday 10th - Thursday 11th February

Waking up at 4:45am to see some Aussie farms with a vet in the blazing sun

Early start back into the city

Distance: ~300km

Total Distance: 10559km

Today I was going out with a university vet! We started out at 5:30am, with 2 final year students, to go look at cows south of Sydney. We did examinations and treatments at a number of farms. The day was roasting hot but, after the wettest January in 30 years, the landscape was still green. 

The reason for the early start was two fold. We had a 2 hour drive to just get to where we were needed. This was an exciting prospect for me as it allowed me to see some of the real Australia, outside of the city. We passed many townships, farms and houses. There wasn't too much wildlife in evidence. Unless you count the wombat that had been killed on the road. Big solid looking beast, the size of a large terrier but build like a boar.

The second reason for our early start was that we were checking the whole herd to see if they were pregnant. We call this "PDing" for short- pregnancy detection/determination. Thus, having been milked since early in the morning the herd had been put into a small nearby paddock to wait out arrival. Never keep a woman waiting. We needed to be there ASAP.

The herd was relatively small and I helped by moving cattle around for the vet. The sun was blazing down on us, helping my tan. I had time to take in the view of hills, wild forest, hedges, and pasture. In the distance I heard my first wild kookaburra. There were also a few more colourful birds flying around. I'll have to buy a bird book. I don't recognise any of them!

There were a number of jobs to do on a number of farms. We trimmed feet, looked at calves, cows, bulls, and abscesses. The farm equipment, sheds, and yards looked more like the UK or USA than those I'd seen in New Zealand. There was more use of TMRs, Total Mixed Ration (everything they need that the pasture won't provide), instead of NZ's unique use of its well understood, well grown pasture. The dairy cattle are bigger too. More akin to the European and American 700kg cows than the wee 550kg Kiwi Cross. The farms themselves weren't all large, but the size is growing. Many are around 300 cattle, but the size grows as some farms fail to turn a profit and are bought up, or as cooperatives are formed. 

It was a great day out for me. By 2pm we were done. Time for Chicken Wizard! This little take away is the vet farm departments go to for the best lunch in town. We got Portugese style chicken burgers, delicious, succulent, and spicy. A good end to the day before I slept all the way back.

The next day I was woken up early. One of my hosts was supposed to be getting the day off, taking me to the train station later on. However her boss had been in a car crash, so she would be covering him at work. Having just been in a crash myself I'm really starting to doubt the Australians driving skills! 

Back into the city I went. Much of the day was then spent in the various parks bird watching. Still haven't got a bird book, but I did recognise the Ibis, Cockatoos, and Plum-headed...something. I'll work on it for next time 

Day 69: The First Prison built and The Catholic Cathedral

Friday 12th February 

Going to the original jail house in Sydney and the St Mary's Catholic Cathedral 

Distance: Bus, 6km, walk, 4km

Total Distance: 10569km

The first convicts came to Sydney in 1788, building the colony that would become the city. Australia is the one convict colony that became a nation state in its own right. Yes, there were more-the UK sent its uncivilised scum all over the empire! The were effectively used as slave labour even as the UK finally outlawed slavery. Only in 'Stralia did they get organised and make it their own place.

One of the reasons for the success of the colony was its use of skilled labour. Anyone who knew a trade could be used by the government or a private individual as a cheap employee. Not only such trades as shepherds, blacksmiths, and coopers made it out here, but even people who had once been engineers and architects. Thus it was a convict who designed and organised the building of the first major prison here. It's so sturdy it still stands today.

The site has changed over the years, but the central building is still the same. A large building on three levels, divided into four rooms, six for 30 convicts each, six for 70 convicts. Each of the 600 men and boys slept in hammocks, some of which have been recreated on the top floor.

Outside was the courtyard, surrounded by trade buildings built in a solid perimeter to form a wall. Much of this has since been demolished to make way for new buildings as times have changed. The original gate houses are there though and one corner building. Doesn't look like much of a perimeter though. Didn't need to be, most convicts kept there chains on hands and feet throughout their incarceration. However a few did make it over the wall. Most came back within a few hours-there wasn't much to do in early Australia, other than get killed by the ecosystem.

I made a quick trip to the enormous building next door too- St Mary's Catholic Cathedral, built in the medieval gothic style. It still amazes me that people just over a hundred years ago decided to build buildings of the type that we constructed in Europe 500 years ago. They're expensive, time consuming, and technically difficult to build. Yet here it is, a European cathedral in appropriate style and grandeur, on the other side of the world. I first wanted to look around at lunch time,but arrived during mass, when people looked to have come from work. Deciding to wait until later I went to the prison. Later I accidentally arrived during afternoon mass which many seemed to be attending straight from work. I quietly waited before taking a look around. The Catholic Church doesn't do things by half here. There's all the small altars, alcoves, and shrines one would find in a far older cathedral. They also have the garments of a Saint, the last Catholic priest killed by the English government.

Day 66: Blue Mountains

Tuesday 9th January

Blue Mountains, including falls, three sisters, and scenic world

Distance: 270km

Total Distance: 10259km

The Blue Mountains are classed as one of those "must do" sights if you are spending anytime around Sydney. Thankfully one of my hosts was due to be working in Penrith today. She gave me a lift to the train station, which is on the line leading into the mountains, and I was there in less than an hour.

I got off at Katoomba, a township over over 8000 residents, plus not a few tourists. From here I got the bus to part of the Prince Harry Track which I would be following to a variety of viewing platforms sat out on the edge of the cliff. From the cliff we could see the forest below stretching out towards a flat-topped mountain out on its own, surrounded by mist. As the day wore on the mist began to clear and I moved further along. 

The Three Sisters are a formation of three rock stacks. In Aboriginal legend they are three sisters engaged to three warrior brothers who died in battle and now stand forever waiting. There's a playing field size lookout platform alongside them, but also a small set of stairs down to them. So of course I took the steep, narrow, frankly dangerous steps to stand on one of the sisters.

I had lunch in the centre behind the sisters. There's an Aboriginal cultural show you can see, as well as a large gift shop, bar and restaurant. Quick lunch, check out the store, then I was off to "Scenic World".

The ONLY reason I went to Scenic World was because that name is SO terrible. It was begun decades ago when the name sounded good. They had big plans for the place. There's roller coaster that would never meet changing regulations for safety and so never be used. The orphan rock, a solitary rock stack used for a lot of weddings, now too unstable and crumbled for the public. They still have the worlds steepest railway though, as well as a couple of cable cars and their exhibit the mining history on the site. It was actually really good. It's something that would be very worth doing for anyone who can't (or is just too lazy to) see much of this type of area by foot. 

Day 65: Vet School

Monday 8th February

Bus n train to vet school, car crash, huntsman

Distance: ~90km

Total Distance: 9989km

The Sydney University Veterinary School hospitals are out to the far west of Sydney. This is the Camden Campus, just outside of the little town of Camden. 

(NB, London, the UK's oldest vet school also has a Camden Campus! Different Camden, obviously)

Turns out this isn't too quick to get to via public transport- but it was relatively easy. Aren't smart phones great? Thanks Google maps.

Bus, Train, Bus, Bus. All paid for via my Opal card, the city's scan on/off transport payment system. Same as the Oyster card in London.

After 2 1/2 hours I was out at the Vet School, greeted by the signs telling me to "Beware of Snakes". Well that's novel. Makes a change from "Keep Off The Grass". Yes, I think I will be wary of the snakes. Thanks for the reminder.

My sister had out me in contact with Mike. He's an Irish vet working in the farm department, and I'd be staying with for a couple of days. After a quick check in at reception I was introduced to my host, followed by the rest of the department and a couple of final year students. I sat and had a chat with the students, successfully disrupting their paper work.

I'd gotten there late in the day so we were soon jumping in the big, solid, tough work ute. A ute is basically a pick up truck with an extra row of seats and, potentially, a canopy over the rear section. They're pretty indestructible. Though I did once see a drunk kiwi farmer right one off by driving into a ditch. Idiot.

As we left the campus we talked about snakes and spiders. 

"I used to have a Huntsman in here some where." I flinched and looked around. That wasn't the news I wanted. Huntsman spiders can grow big. Hand sized big. And they're slightly poisonous.

Down the road we joined the main highway bustling with rush hour traffic. The road was busy with the usual people trying to get home from work, as well as trucks large and small. We were steadily making our way back, chatting away, minding our own business, sitting in the queue before a roundabout, when suddenly...

Someone slammed a cricket bat against the back of my chair.

I hammered forward against the seat belt.

Brakes were slammed back on.

Someone had hit us!

We pulled over. Behind us an older British couple in a little Toyota had been forced into the back of our ute. Their bonnet had gone under our tow bar, leaving us with limited damage. However, they'd been sandwiched between us and the ute behind. They sat there, clearly shocked and stunned, in their crumpled car. An Aussie emerged from the ute behind, talking quickly and with little in the way of apology.

"These things happen, mate. You know, mate? These things just happen mate. Accidents happen."

I wasn't in the mood to start taking issue enough to point out that this wasn't an 'accident'. You fucked up mate. Your fault. Mate.

The British guy quietly sat by the road with me.  His car's only straight panel now was the roof, with no unsmashed lights. His clearly distressed wife still sat trying to compose herself in the passenger seat. He added a couple of colourful words to our quiet chat too. I agreed.

I was sat in the back of the ute waiting for details to be exchanged. Then suddenly the F-ing Huntsman appeared on the seat!!! It wasn't full grown, only about the size of my palm. I tried to get a photo but it ran off before I could even get a camera out. That is not reassuring. I jumped out of the car.

The tow truck arrived and the police came for a quick look in. No one was significantly hurt so they wouldn't be making a record of the event. We were fine- a few flecks of paint, not much. The Aussie ute had a large dent in its bull bars but nothing else. The wee Toyota was potentially a right off. Nearly all of the panels were bent and lights shattered but no idea about the innards.

We left them all there by the roadside. Coming off relatively unscathed it was simply a shock. Time for a beer.

Day 62-64: Sydney

Friday 5th-Sunday 7th February

Randwick, Games Workshop and Centennial Park

Central Sydney: Museum of Sydney, Observatory Hills, The Rocks, The Sydney Opera House, The Sydney Harbour Bridge, the Botanical Gardens 

Distance: Buses, 15km, Walking, 35km

Total Distance: 8899km

I spent my first days resting, nerding out, visiting the local area and the local Centennial Park. It's quite odd having such a sudden change of flora and fauna. There's a lot of amazing birds in the parks here, as well as native trees able to deal with the low rain fall.

After this I felt ready to venture out into the tourist spots. My Lonely Planet guide suggested a walk from the Observatory to the Botanic Gardens, taking in the Bridge and Opera House.

In the way down I dropped in at the Museum of Sydney. This little museum is built over the site of the first Government House. It's got a good smattering of Aussie history but I can't say I stayed long. It was one of those museums with a bit too much guff, waffle, and information which, whilst probably interesting to the expert, wasn't an aid to my understanding of Australia's past.

However there were two exhibits I particularly enjoyed. One was in the cinema they have showing a series of old films about the building of parts of the city, such as the bridge. The other was a series of conversations between actors playing the parts of original settlers, giving the views and opinions of early Australia.

I moved off for the advised walk from Lonely Planet. The observatory, down past the bridge, to the Opera House, and out to the Botanci Gardens. I couldn't help but wander off course though.

Up on Observatory Hill there were a large number of couples having their wedding photos taken. This hill gives the best panoramic view of Sydney- thus is extremely popular. I had a plod around, taking in the large building that is the observatory with its 3 domes and the telescope outside as an exhibit. The view across Sydney was great, yet much of the modern cityscape is now housing, shopping malls, and industrial units. I felt out of place amongst the men in tails and ladies in white. Let's move on. 

I went under the highway that goes onto the bridge via a small old stone tunnel. This lead to "The Rocks", an area that has been inhabited virtually all the time there's been westerners here. There's even an area of some of the first houses which have been excavated and left on show so that people can walk through them, sit on replica chairs by replica tables. In The Rocks of today there was a street market going on with everything from cloths and crafts to food and drink. A quick look around and I was off. 

Between here and the Opera House are the Modern Art Gallery, great views of the bridge, and the quay. I wandered through the art gallery. It was ok. Nothing special. Nothing that really felt like anything. Not much that made me think. It was ok. I feel like the artists have spent too much time thinking about what they were going to produce and not enough feeling it. Saw better in New Zealand. But that's just my opinion.

The Opera House was cool to finally see. I never r aliased that it's two seemingly unconnected buildings. Nor did I realise that the roof is not big stretches of pure white. It's actually a series of white tiles, some tiles formed on the surface of the steel supports. Each of the two arenas had events about to start at this point. Everyone but me and the Chinese tourists were dressed up in their best for a night of opera or theatre. Hence I wasn't going for a proper look around the inside, instead the bars, cafes, and wee gift shop had to suffice.

The Botanic Garden is celebrating its 200th Anniversary. They've grown a few specific, spectacular, borders for the occasion and begun the renovation of some of their main buildings. I walked through on my way to the bus, amongst cycads and roses.

Day 61:Goodbye Kiwis, G'day Aussies

Thurday 4th February

Flying into Sydney and finding Chris

Distance: Bus, 6km, Plane 2227km, Bus, 10km, Walk, 3km

Total Distance: 8874km

Today began at...well, everyday starts at midnight, technically. I was up at midnight still packing. But eventually I got some sleep.

I woke after 3am, made breakfast including lots of coffee, and headed out for the bus. There were a few of us on the wee shuttle with me as the last to be picked up. Everyone else looked to be in a blurry state like me. Awake on too little sleep and knowing rest wouldn't come soon. We sat in silence. The dark was punctured by the odd monument or sculpture, lit throughout the night. I took a last glampse around Wellington. 

At the airport I tried to reclaim a wakeful state, aided by Smaug. Apparently he'd just smashed through the wall to say Goodbye to me. I then found a giant Golem hunting giant trout. Around the corner Gandalf sat atop one of the Giant Eagles, with another near by. All made by Weta Workshop. Amazing to see before I left.

And that was that. I flew out of Wellington. Goodbye New Zealand. It's been great.

Hello Australia!

Immigration was easy enough, but customs required a bit more. All that tramping in New Zealand made me a potential risk for the ecosystem- so I handed over my beloved boots for inspection and cleaning. Too easy (that's Aussie for...something)

9am and I'd been awake for hours. Time for coffee, juice, and wait for rush hour to end. And for the rain to stop.

Yes, it's raining. That's not normal here. Apparently they've had their wettest January in 30 years. It's green!

Eventually I got a public bus out to near where one of my university flatmates, Chris, works. The rain continued lightly as I walked down the road. I was just a street away when suddenly the heavens opened. I had to run, with everything I own on my back, round the corner and through the door. 

Chris had left his flat key for me at reception. I put on my rain coat and bag cover, preparing to walk to his flat. As I began the rain stopped. And my first experience of the boiling February Australian sun began.

I'm in Sydney! Sweaty, tired, and dehydrated. Time for a shower, tea, and bed.

Day 58,59 & 60: Ferry and back to Wellington

Monday 1st Tuesday 2nd Wednesday 3rd February

Kaikoura to Wellington via the ferry and 2 days in Wellington

Distance: Bus, 160km, Ferry, 100km

Total Distance: 6628km

The bus took us as far as the ferry terminal  at Picton. Half the tourists stated on the bus, preparing to do the west coast as they'd started in Christchurch. The rest of us checked in and got onto the ferry. It's wasn't so different from when I travelled from Wellington to Picton- clear skies, calm sea. I explored more, going up the the observation deck on the roof to see the last trails of land of the South Island as we left. I found the bar where a pint of beer was only $6- as much as on land- and sat to watch the ending of "Dambusters" on the large TV as a band played in the corner. Through the back of the bar was an area at the back of the ship. The wooden decking was covering in wicker chairs so one could relax whilst watching the South Island slide away throught the slanted glass roof. Which sounds lovely until you appreciate that's is basically a giant green house. Too warm for me. Time for some of the fantastic warm date scones that they bring around on a trolley.

Eventually I made it into Wellington where I would be staying with my good friend Sara for a couple of days. I dropped my bags off and, as she wasn't back from work yet, went to go see Taranteno's new film. 

The next day I repacked a couple of times then went out to go see Weta Workshop. Weta was made famous by the Lord of the Rings but, like the landscapes of New Zealand, it has done far more of note than just these three films. 

I decided to be lazy and get the Weta bus rather than a public bus to the site. It was much more expensive but kind of worth it. On the way back we would go via some of the other studios, a few sites of not around the area, and Peter Jackson's house. Apparently Scarlet Johanssen was filming nearby and living in a house on Peter's street. We never saw her through. :'(

We started with a film about Weta Workshop being formed in the flat of a Kiwi couple who Peter Jackson became friends with and together they made a number of 90's Kiwi films before moving on to bigger and bigger projects.

Weta has a display area which is near to much of their design and development space. It was AMAZING. There are models, prosthetics, art work and equipment from the many films they've helped with, alongside projects for private individuals and personal projects. Much of the gear from Lord of the a Rings is now nearly 20 years old and being steadily diluted by Narnia, District 9, King King, Halo, and The Wotwots. A nerds paradise. Loved it.

I even had a good chat afterwards with one of the designers about my own wee project. I'll tell you about that another day.

The next day I end up to Zealandia. This is a large bird sanctuary above Wellington. With the best anti-pest fences available it is effectively an island amidst the city. Here, like on Stewart Island, the birds can live in a virtual paradise with limited threat from such predators as rats and cats. Thus they thrive. 

Zealandia is a great place for anyone wanting to see New Zealand's birds. The downside for me was...me. 

Oh, look, a Kaka...seen it

A Tomtit...seen it

Parakeet...seen it

But,inf you're in Wellington I would highly recommend it. There are free buses that run from the information centre- the I-site- in the middle of the city. There are also guided tours and mobility scooters. Hence, if you won't make it to the top of Mount Avalanche or the swamp-jungles of Stewart Island, Zealandia is a wonderful place.

And it does allo you to see what NZ might be like if we hadn't invaded with all our mammals.

I also dropped into Te Papa. No real reason, just my favourite place. A phenomenal free museum. If you go to nothing else in Welly, go to Te Papa.

Then came my last evening in New Zealand. Sara gave me a call and I joined here at Crumpets, the supreme cocktail bar in Welly, for a couple of drinks with friends. We then headed to Five Boroughs, the American diner for my last meal in New Zealand. Sacrilege, I know.

1/2 a kilo of hot wings, 4 pieces of buttermilk fried chicken, 2 deep fried Oreos with ice cream, and a stack of pancakes with bacon and maple syrup later and I was quite full.

11pm that evening we got back to the flat. And I decided to repack. And repack. And repack.

By 1am I had it sorted, had a shower and went for 2 hours of sleep before my flight.

Day 57: Kaikoura Whale Watching

Sunday 31st January 

Sperm Whale off the starboard bow! And Dolphins! And a frogging great Albatross!!!

Distance: Bus, 181km, Boat, 18km

Total Distance:  6368km

Starting back on the Kiwi bus with only 2 days remaining was something of a shock. A significant number of people leave at Christchurch, and an equally significant number get on. New, young, inexperienced, people, not knowing how the buses work. As it turned out they don't know how to wash or dry their dishes either. (Old man grumbling noises)

Time to go to Kaikoura (Kai=food/eating, Koura=Crayfish) , the home of whale watching in NZ!

Boats leave every half hour and at least one sighting is virtually promised. The reason for the whales being here in such numbers is due to the deep sea trench just off shore. Here cold southerly currents meet northern warm currents and life thrives.

The Sperm Whale is the main species seen. The waters are relatively cold such that primarily males inhabit these waters. The males are larger and thus can survive comfortably at lower temperatures. Sperm whales are champions of deep sea dives, using the trench's ecosystem as their feeding grounds. They have large teeth, not combs, and eat any number of large animals such as squid and sharks (even great whites!)

Each whale dives down for around 2 hours before resurfacing. Here they are made obvious by the great sprays of water with each exhilation. They steadily bob in the water, breathing, digesting, defecating. This last for about 15 minutes before they dive again, head going down, tail giving a grand swish before slapping the water. The slap was known as The Hand of God by whalers, as it could destroy any little whaling boat sending everyone aboard to God. As the whale swims into the deep a patch of smooth water appears. This is caused by the whale's propulsion, but was believed by whalers to be a small oil slick left behind by the whales.

Sperm Whales get their name from the first whales caught having a white substance in their heads which looked like semen. It took them a little while to realise that's not where the reproductive organs are, but the name has stuck. It kind of works in other ways though-they have the largest head to body retro in the animal kingdom. They are 1/3 head, 1/3 torso & abdomen, and 1/3 tail.

The white substance in their heads is actually oil. It was harvested for years to be shipped to Europe and America for uses such as lamps. The biological purpose of the oil is uncertain. There are two theories:

1. At the surface, as the whale breathes, the oil cools becoming more solid, denser, and less boyant. This acts like a diving weight, pulling the whale down for its next dive. In the deep, once out of adequate oxygen, blood can be pumped around the oil. This heats it, creating less dense liquid which is more boyant. The whale is then able to swim more easily to the surface.

2. In the depths the whales use their echo location to find food. The oil could be used to aid sonar emission and/or detection, enabling them to see better in the dark.

We got our one whale easy enough and were joined by 2 other boats from the same fleet to watch as a creature as long as the boats and far heavier breathed. They are quite big...

Then he had enough, got hungry, and with a great slap of his tail descended.

During the rest of the ride we found bottlenose dolphins and a seal playing in amongst them, like a dog at a family gathering. The Dolphins swam around us and further off could be seen performing flips and playing games. 

My favourite though was the Albatross that flew at the boat and was nearly hit, had the skipper not slammed on the brakes. Wings out, it sailed past the windows. The span was phenomenal. You can't tell when they're out on the ocean, and can't really see it from the museum models. This thing stretched out to nearly the height of the boat. The average wingspan for a Wandering Albatross is apparently 3.85m. It was huge. Like a bird with wing extensions. And it nearly got plastered against the windscreen. 

Didn't even have time for a photo.