Showing posts with label Sailing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sailing. Show all posts

Thursday, 25 February 2016

Day 81, 82, & 83: Sailing the Whitsundays

Wednesday 24th, Thursday 25th, Friday 26th, February 

Took boat out sailing, no swimming, just chilling
Nachos

Distance:
Total Distance:

For two nights we lived aboard the British Defender, an ex-racing yacht.

We arrived at the quay mid afternoon. Thus our first day was a short one on our yacht. Sails were hoisted up the mast, volunteers helping by manning the winches. Under sail power we steadily moved out into the islands.

The Whitsundays sit at the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef. They are each green forested islands with coves, beaches, and surrounded by reefs. That night we would be staying in one of the coves. However, as with the following night, no swimming was allowed. The currents can run fast and aren't obvious. Though being swept away turns out to be just one more potentially lethal risk in these waters.

From the galley nachos appeared. We busily put them away as the rain closed in. Once it had fully arrived though canvas had been spread out from the boom (horizontal bit that sticks out of the mast). We were in a giant swag! After last night we made a few jokes as we ate the rest of dinner.

The next morning we set sail for Whitehaven cove. Here the sand is insanely pure. It's perfectly white. It reflects nearly all of the sun's heat, leaving it constantly cool, whilst threatening to tan your chin. This is due in part due to the singular source of the sand. A pure granite under the water that has been eroded away to form all the sand. This has been followed by thousands of years of washing of the sands by the sea removing impurities. The sands are shifted every day- no two trips here are the same.

This is also a sight for juvenile sharks, sting rays, and turtles. We saw one turtle as we moored on the far side of the island. At Whitehaven itself we saw one large sting ray-someone nearly stood on it despite our best efforts to ensure everything heard us coming. There were also a number of lemon sharks- so called due to their yellow colouring. Don't worry, they're less than a metre in length.

We were also, sort of, watching out for jellyfish. 

After the mandatory human pyramid, being cleaned with the world's purest sand, and checking out the little hidden beach, we got rain! It didn't last long. Just enough to make us retreat back to our depot of packs and gear. Group photo. Find the two absentees. Back to boat we go.

That afternoon I got to try out something I've been wanting to do for years. Most of the group went out snorkelling. Doing this was cheaper (gear was on our yacht) and gave them more time in the water. But I wanted to try out Scuba diving. An introductory course to try it out is being run by a company in the islands. We took mini British Defender over to their boat. It was filled with tanks and apparatus. Time to   become a dolphin. 

Jumping in involved standing on a small ledge of steel overhanging the watery abyss. Which worryingly reminded me of Bungy jumping . But without the plummet of 134m into a rocky stream. Which was nice.

Some people struggled with the fact that we had to solely breath through our mouths. It took some getting used to. I'm not sure I was doing it right- slow steady in, slow steady out. Like meditative breathing. However, I did have some buoyancy issues. As in my feet were at a level with everyone else's heads. We sort of solved this by the instructor putting a large camera in my pocket. Wasn't perfect though. I'll ask for more weights next time- I was on +8kg this time.

The visibility here isn't great at this time of year. The currents are wrong and there's lots of plankton in the area. Still it was an opportunity to try it out, whilst seeing the reef. We did see a lot of fish, some less than technicolour coral, but nothing too dangerous. I'd love to do a proper training course and be able to come back and see more of the reef. It gets much better as one travels further into it, apparently. Maybe another year.



That evening we had a costume party. We'd bought lots of fluorescent clothes, glow sticks, and I both a knock off lightsaber. Wonder what e other boats in the bay thought of us? Light show, loud music, some seamanly drinking. We had a great time of it. Then the yoga mats wre brought out and a few of us set up to sleep on the deck under the stars.

In the morning the boat set off, despite a lack of wind, bright and early. It was our last morning. We were set to make it count.

Being at the southern extent of the Great Barrier Reef there's some excellent spots for snorkelling. Having been to just one yesterday it would be a sate not to go to another. Turtles, parrotfish, soft coral, hard coral, and a multitude of tiny fish. All out by a sandy peninsula. 

Why did we have to leave for Ailisle Beach???

The afternoon was free. We slept, did laundry, hunted for wifi, and ran between the wonderful cover of air con. It was a humid 38C. What fun we had.

The hostel was an interesting cooperative resort run jointly by two of Austrilasia's largest hostel companies. Base and Nomads run nearly all of the larger hostels I've had to stay at- some are amazing and characterful, some are huge and sterile. In this one there were a number of little houses, seperated into apartments, each with a patio or balcony. There were a number of small pools, birds and flying foxes hanging around, the odd gecko feeding of the insects. If it wasn't for the heat it would be a lovely place.

We left at 4:20am...Day 84 was terrible....

Friday, 18 December 2015

Day 9 & 10: I'm on a boat! Sailing, Kayaking, and then back to Auckland

14th & 15th December
Day 9: Sailing around the Bay of Islands, had lunch on a beach and went Kayaking around some of the coastline, which was BEAUTIFUL. 
Day 10: Waitangi Treaty grounds, the birthplace of the nation, before leaving for Wellington
Distance: Boat 30km?, Walked to-from Waitangi 3km & Bus 227km 
Total Distance: 1978km


Day 9
She's A Lady is a 50 ton cruising vessel that takes people out into the Bay of Islands for a day of sailing, kayaking, snorkelling, swimming, hiking, lunching, and chatting with the World's Coolest Skipper, Cpt Dave from Miami, now of New Zealand. He's so chilled out yet so knowledgeable about boats and the Pacific Ocean, and with the accent from Wayne's World most of us just spent the afternoon listening to him talk about his amazing life sailing other people's super expensive boats, hunting local pigs, and making moonshine. 

Anyway, less about the amazing Dave, more about the amazing me.

The wind wasn't great in the morning and we had an island to get to, so at first we started out motoring along with the engine. But the main sail was put up.
"Why do we put the sail up?"
"Erm...cos it's easier if we do find wind?"
"Yes, but the number one reason is because it looks cool, and that's the most important thing!"

I took to the wheel half way to our island, looking after the boat as Dave went to do other things. The sun was shining, the water was clear, the islands, as ever, spectacularly beautiful. We went slightly off course to have a quick look in at some small blue penguins, the world's smallest penguin which lives around New Zealand. There were also a few cormorants happily fishing in the waters, or relaxing in the sun.

We eventually set the anchor down in a small bay with no one else around. The kayaks were thrown overboard and Lydia (another Kiwi Experience traveller who's from the southern UK) and I took them over to the coast. Here we paddled around the outcrops, spotting more birds, a few fish, splashing about in the 1metre of swell (trying to keep of the rocks!) and bravely/stupidly/luckily working our way into then out  of some delightful caves and inlets.

After some time we took the kayaks to the beach for other passengers to explore the waters. We headed off around part of a cove by foot, before returning for a sit down before lunch. Dave brought a basket out of the boat. Others arrived from their snorkelling or walking across the island to another beach. Freshly made hefty healthy sandwiches of ham, egg, lettuce, tomato, carrot, mayonnaise and cucumber in multigrain bread appeared, with kiwi fruit and afghan biscuits to follow, accompanied by lemon squash. The sailing boat bobbed in the clear blue water as we sat amongst have the trees above our private golden beach, the sun filling the sky as a refreshing light breeze played at our backs. No one said a word.

We returned to the boat via a smaller motor boat. We unfurled the main sail and jib sail, catching the growing breeze. At a steady 5 knots we quietly, leisurely, peacefully, made our way back. Dave answered questions about the area, sailing and other boats. He explained about the leisure craft in the Bay as well as the rest of the Pacific, most of which he has seen, it would seem.

We left the boat feeling very relaxed. 


Day 10
The bus was due to leave at 2:30pm, giving us a morning to use as we saw fit. Many others went to the beach, but I knew I simply couldn't miss out the chance to go to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds.

The Waitangi Treaty made the Maori citizens of the British Empire and New Zealand a(nother) colony. It "protected" the Maori from the French and Catholic missionaries who were marauding their way across the Pacific and gave the crown some control over the lands, such as bringing law to the lawless whalers settlements.

There's a huge amount of debate about the treaty. I'm sure I've covered it before nearly a year ago. Let's not do it again.

As a resident of New Zealand (I have a NZ Driving License!) I got $10 off entry and a free tour or "cultural experience". I can live without a tour, but the CE sounded good, and it was!

The the top of hill where the treaty was finalised and the first signatures signed sit two houses. One is the old European house, now a museum. The other is a large, decoratively carved Maori Whare ("Fare", Wh=F, Translation: House/Hut/Hall). Here we sent Cheif Gregg of Cristchurch forward as the visitors representative, to face off against the warriors' welcome. Once it was understood we came in peace we removed our shoes and went inside. The Maori Cheif made a speak in both Maori and English, followed by a grateful thank you speech from our Chief Gregg. We were taken through a history of Maori music, singing, dance, and warrior training. It was great and I'm very glad I went but it's difficult to describe it all. You'll just have to come here and see it yourself. 
Or search YouTube. 

I had a quick walk through the small forest of native plants planned and planted by a Victorian, english botonist. At the bottom of the hill by the sea stands a long house. Here are housed the 3 ceremonial war canoes built and subsequently used for each Waitangi Day celebration. When Queen Liz visited in 1990 she asked to make the main, longest boat a "HMS" vessel. The Captain agreed, so the Royal Navy has a Maori War Canoe in its ranks! W might not have the world's biggest navy anymore, but we definitely have the coolest.

I'm now back in Auckland, drinking tea and in need of a shower and a bed. We're off to Hot Water Beach tomorrow. I'll let you figure out what's special there.