Day 25: Hiking to see Franz Josef Glacier- too cloudy to fly

Wednesday 30th December

Hiking to Robert's Point to see the Franz Josef Glacier

Kayaking in the local lake

Distance: Hike, 11km +2km, Minibus & Kayak, 12km(?)

Total Distance: 4020km

Today started with a disappointment. We were due to fly by helicopter up to the Franz Josef Glacier. However, the cloud was low and thick, preventing us going. I tried to switch onto a later flight, but as the cloud refused to move that was cancelled too. A few people went off to the brilliant bakery, having 'saved' $300.

Instead a few of us decided to go get the best view of Franz possible. The advice was that there was a viewing platform which wasn't say to get to, but would be below the level of the clouds whilst allowing us a good view of the exposed glacier.

The hike was tough and very dangerous at times, but not too concerning for 5 young people with some experience of doing these things. It was a fun challenge, and we crossed over a number of worrying swing bridges, as well as traversing various interesting 'paths'.

Finally we reached the top, getting a wonderful view of the glacier and a spot for lunch.

Link to my friends Facebook album of photos:

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10153611614986977&id=632806976

We returned quickly and without drama (we may have got a little lost...), before hitting the bakery for RnR. 

Despite our tiredness we were off again, going kayaking in the local lake. The guides were great and I had a lot of chat with the one from Wales who's been here for 5 months. We took a paddle down a little creek at the far end of the lake, then returned making silly faces and poses for the guides who took pictures.

Link to the kayak companies photo album:

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10153613094846977&id=632806976

Afterwards we we shattered. 1 pint at the pub, scavenge some food, then early to bed.

Day 18: More Kayaking, and a lift to an amazing hostel

Wednesday 23rd December 

Kayaking near Abel Tasman, then chilling in a forest-hostel with more Germans

Distance: Kayak, 5km, Minibus, 32km

Total Distance  3318km

Today began bright and early with a few hours of kayaking east of the Abel Tasman national park. I ended up in a sea kayak with 1/3 of a wild Swedish trio who were hilarious, to the point that they were nearly better than the kayaking.

The down side to the kayaking was that it was too short. And in the wrong direction. Out west of where we started is the amazingly beautiful Abel Tasman, which includes a marine reserve brimming with life. 

I've been told before, yet had forgotten, not to buy the prepaid vouchers from the Kiwi Experience website. The vouchers ensure you are paid up, occasionally at a discount, to do certain activities. The ones available via the website are not bad, but they are the minimum. There is actually better available when one is on the bus, as well as what is on the vouchers.

Thus, if I did it again, I would have signed up to do a full day in Abel Tasman. Or, had I been with other people, I would have done what the smart people were doing and getting kayaks for a few days, putting gear on them, then going glamping on the various beaches. You can carry far more on a kayak than on your back! Some people had brought everything with them, including their barbecue. But, being solo, I'm not so keen to take to the seas. I don't have gills. Bad things happen at sea, even when just off shore.

After the kayaking I had a different hostel to get to. Being lazy and the kayak crew taking their bus in the same direction, I asked for a lift down the road. To my surprise they took we down the road, then up the long drive to my hostel. Lovely :)

Most of the rest of the day was spent sprawling about the hostel.

I love Budget Hostels here- especially the small ones, they always have so much character.

This one was high in the hills, surrounded by forest, with no signal (but no where here has signal), and with hammocks! I love hammocks.

I alternated half hours of reading and napping for a while, until I was joined by a dasselling German. She smiled at me and I smiled back. I attempted to turn in the hammock to talk to her, but, failing to make it nonchalant I put my head back... and blacked out. Have you ever fallen into such a deep sleep that you lose your balance? I did. An hour later waking up felt like being hauled out of a deep well. Forgetting nonchalant I dizzily made my way back inside. 

After a shower, dinner, and a coffee I felt slightly more human. I was sat in the kitchen about to write a blog entry when a German girl asked me if I wanted to join a small group of random Germans enjoying a pre-Christmas celebration. She'd received a dried mulled wine mix plus spice mix from her grandmother and made some carrot cake. Thus Christmas Eve Eve was spent with 5 Germans, switching between a language I vaguely recognise now and my native tongue, discussing everything from various international Christmas traditions, to German markets in Munich, Edinburgh and Birmingham, to what activities we were all planning for the next few days.

Day 9 & 10: I'm on a boat! Sailing, Kayaking, and then back to Auckland

14th & 15th December

Day 9: Sailing around the Bay of Islands, had lunch on a beach and went Kayaking around some of the coastline, which was BEAUTIFUL. 

Day 10: Waitangi Treaty grounds, the birthplace of the nation, before leaving for Wellington

Distance: Boat 30km?, Walked to-from Waitangi 3km & Bus 227km 

Total Distance: 1978km

Day 9

She's A Lady is a 50 ton cruising vessel that takes people out into the Bay of Islands for a day of sailing, kayaking, snorkelling, swimming, hiking, lunching, and chatting with the World's Coolest Skipper, Cpt Dave from Miami, now of New Zealand. He's so chilled out yet so knowledgeable about boats and the Pacific Ocean, and with the accent from Wayne's World most of us just spent the afternoon listening to him talk about his amazing life sailing other people's super expensive boats, hunting local pigs, and making moonshine. 

Anyway, less about the amazing Dave, more about the amazing me.

The wind wasn't great in the morning and we had an island to get to, so at first we started out motoring along with the engine. But the main sail was put up.

"Why do we put the sail up?"

"Erm...cos it's easier if we do find wind?"

"Yes, but the number one reason is because it looks cool, and that's the most important thing!"

I took to the wheel half way to our island, looking after the boat as Dave went to do other things. The sun was shining, the water was clear, the islands, as ever, spectacularly beautiful. We went slightly off course to have a quick look in at some small blue penguins, the world's smallest penguin which lives around New Zealand. There were also a few cormorants happily fishing in the waters, or relaxing in the sun.

We eventually set the anchor down in a small bay with no one else around. The kayaks were thrown overboard and Lydia (another Kiwi Experience traveller who's from the southern UK) and I took them over to the coast. Here we paddled around the outcrops, spotting more birds, a few fish, splashing about in the 1metre of swell (trying to keep of the rocks!) and bravely/stupidly/luckily working our way into then out  of some delightful caves and inlets.

After some time we took the kayaks to the beach for other passengers to explore the waters. We headed off around part of a cove by foot, before returning for a sit down before lunch. Dave brought a basket out of the boat. Others arrived from their snorkelling or walking across the island to another beach. Freshly made hefty healthy sandwiches of ham, egg, lettuce, tomato, carrot, mayonnaise and cucumber in multigrain bread appeared, with kiwi fruit and afghan biscuits to follow, accompanied by lemon squash. The sailing boat bobbed in the clear blue water as we sat amongst have the trees above our private golden beach, the sun filling the sky as a refreshing light breeze played at our backs. No one said a word.

We returned to the boat via a smaller motor boat. We unfurled the main sail and jib sail, catching the growing breeze. At a steady 5 knots we quietly, leisurely, peacefully, made our way back. Dave answered questions about the area, sailing and other boats. He explained about the leisure craft in the Bay as well as the rest of the Pacific, most of which he has seen, it would seem.

We left the boat feeling very relaxed. 

Day 10

The bus was due to leave at 2:30pm, giving us a morning to use as we saw fit. Many others went to the beach, but I knew I simply couldn't miss out the chance to go to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds.

The Waitangi Treaty made the Maori citizens of the British Empire and New Zealand a(nother) colony. It "protected" the Maori from the French and Catholic missionaries who were marauding their way across the Pacific and gave the crown some control over the lands, such as bringing law to the lawless whalers settlements.

There's a huge amount of debate about the treaty. I'm sure I've covered it before nearly a year ago. Let's not do it again.

As a resident of New Zealand (I have a NZ Driving License!) I got $10 off entry and a free tour or "cultural experience". I can live without a tour, but the CE sounded good, and it was!

The the top of hill where the treaty was finalised and the first signatures signed sit two houses. One is the old European house, now a museum. The other is a large, decoratively carved Maori Whare ("Fare", Wh=F, Translation: House/Hut/Hall). Here we sent Cheif Gregg of Cristchurch forward as the visitors representative, to face off against the warriors' welcome. Once it was understood we came in peace we removed our shoes and went inside. The Maori Cheif made a speak in both Maori and English, followed by a grateful thank you speech from our Chief Gregg. We were taken through a history of Maori music, singing, dance, and warrior training. It was great and I'm very glad I went but it's difficult to describe it all. You'll just have to come here and see it yourself. 

Or search YouTube. 

I had a quick walk through the small forest of native plants planned and planted by a Victorian, english botonist. At the bottom of the hill by the sea stands a long house. Here are housed the 3 ceremonial war canoes built and subsequently used for each Waitangi Day celebration. When Queen Liz visited in 1990 she asked to make the main, longest boat a "HMS" vessel. The Captain agreed, so the Royal Navy has a Maori War Canoe in its ranks! W might not have the world's biggest navy anymore, but we definitely have the coolest.

I'm now back in Auckland, drinking tea and in need of a shower and a bed. We're off to Hot Water Beach tomorrow. I'll let you figure out what's special there.