14th & 15th December
Day 9: Sailing around the Bay of Islands, had lunch on a beach and went Kayaking around some of the coastline, which was BEAUTIFUL.
Day 10: Waitangi Treaty grounds, the birthplace of the nation, before leaving for Wellington
Distance: Boat 30km?, Walked to-from Waitangi 3km & Bus 227km
Total Distance: 1978km
Day 9
She's A Lady is a 50 ton cruising vessel that takes people out into the Bay of Islands for a day of sailing, kayaking, snorkelling, swimming, hiking, lunching, and chatting with the World's Coolest Skipper, Cpt Dave from Miami, now of New Zealand. He's so chilled out yet so knowledgeable about boats and the Pacific Ocean, and with the accent from Wayne's World most of us just spent the afternoon listening to him talk about his amazing life sailing other people's super expensive boats, hunting local pigs, and making moonshine.
Anyway, less about the amazing Dave, more about the amazing me.
The wind wasn't great in the morning and we had an island to get to, so at first we started out motoring along with the engine. But the main sail was put up.
"Why do we put the sail up?"
"Erm...cos it's easier if we do find wind?"
"Yes, but the number one reason is because it looks cool, and that's the most important thing!"
I took to the wheel half way to our island, looking after the boat as Dave went to do other things. The sun was shining, the water was clear, the islands, as ever, spectacularly beautiful. We went slightly off course to have a quick look in at some small blue penguins, the world's smallest penguin which lives around New Zealand. There were also a few cormorants happily fishing in the waters, or relaxing in the sun.
We eventually set the anchor down in a small bay with no one else around. The kayaks were thrown overboard and Lydia (another Kiwi Experience traveller who's from the southern UK) and I took them over to the coast. Here we paddled around the outcrops, spotting more birds, a few fish, splashing about in the 1metre of swell (trying to keep of the rocks!) and bravely/stupidly/luckily working our way into then out of some delightful caves and inlets.
After some time we took the kayaks to the beach for other passengers to explore the waters. We headed off around part of a cove by foot, before returning for a sit down before lunch. Dave brought a basket out of the boat. Others arrived from their snorkelling or walking across the island to another beach. Freshly made hefty healthy sandwiches of ham, egg, lettuce, tomato, carrot, mayonnaise and cucumber in multigrain bread appeared, with kiwi fruit and afghan biscuits to follow, accompanied by lemon squash. The sailing boat bobbed in the clear blue water as we sat amongst have the trees above our private golden beach, the sun filling the sky as a refreshing light breeze played at our backs. No one said a word.
We returned to the boat via a smaller motor boat. We unfurled the main sail and jib sail, catching the growing breeze. At a steady 5 knots we quietly, leisurely, peacefully, made our way back. Dave answered questions about the area, sailing and other boats. He explained about the leisure craft in the Bay as well as the rest of the Pacific, most of which he has seen, it would seem.
We left the boat feeling very relaxed.
Day 10
The bus was due to leave at 2:30pm, giving us a morning to use as we saw fit. Many others went to the beach, but I knew I simply couldn't miss out the chance to go to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds.
The Waitangi Treaty made the Maori citizens of the British Empire and New Zealand a(nother) colony. It "protected" the Maori from the French and Catholic missionaries who were marauding their way across the Pacific and gave the crown some control over the lands, such as bringing law to the lawless whalers settlements.
There's a huge amount of debate about the treaty. I'm sure I've covered it before nearly a year ago. Let's not do it again.
As a resident of New Zealand (I have a NZ Driving License!) I got $10 off entry and a free tour or "cultural experience". I can live without a tour, but the CE sounded good, and it was!
The the top of hill where the treaty was finalised and the first signatures signed sit two houses. One is the old European house, now a museum. The other is a large, decoratively carved Maori Whare ("Fare", Wh=F, Translation: House/Hut/Hall). Here we sent Cheif Gregg of Cristchurch forward as the visitors representative, to face off against the warriors' welcome. Once it was understood we came in peace we removed our shoes and went inside. The Maori Cheif made a speak in both Maori and English, followed by a grateful thank you speech from our Chief Gregg. We were taken through a history of Maori music, singing, dance, and warrior training. It was great and I'm very glad I went but it's difficult to describe it all. You'll just have to come here and see it yourself.
Or search YouTube.
I had a quick walk through the small forest of native plants planned and planted by a Victorian, english botonist. At the bottom of the hill by the sea stands a long house. Here are housed the 3 ceremonial war canoes built and subsequently used for each Waitangi Day celebration. When Queen Liz visited in 1990 she asked to make the main, longest boat a "HMS" vessel. The Captain agreed, so the Royal Navy has a Maori War Canoe in its ranks! W might not have the world's biggest navy anymore, but we definitely have the coolest.
I'm now back in Auckland, drinking tea and in need of a shower and a bed. We're off to Hot Water Beach tomorrow. I'll let you figure out what's special there.
