Showing posts with label Stewart island. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Stewart island. Show all posts

Saturday, 16 January 2016

Special Broadcast: I saw a Wild Kiwi!!!

Sunday 17th January

I stumbled into a wild kiwi!!!
On my last day of hiking through the forests of Stewart Island.

I was into the last hour of the track. I'd been making good time since the hut. Most of my food was gone- I'd finished the last of my bread for breakfast, leaving me with a couple of cereal bars and an old bag a gummy bears. I needed to get back for lunch, preferably for some of the Kai Kart's beautiful, fresh, fish n chips. I was steaming along. The last to leave the hut, again, I wasn't due to be the last to reach Oban. I kept passing small groups with each kilometre. 5 hours to get to Obam? Nah, I can do it in 3. The route is relatively flat, and much of it is quite straight, if muddy.

Minding my own business, just thinking of stuff, trundling along... then something brown ran off the track and into the bush.

This area was straight for 200 yards. If I'd been looking at the track I'd have seen it long ago. Yet clearly neither of us was concentrating- we'd been a few feet from one another.

And there she was, under a log. I whistled a couple of bird calls- I've been using that trick a few times here, to make the birds think it's safe. Make it sound as though someone else has been brave enough to be the first to emerge after this strange man appeared. 

The she began to look around at the ground. She started prodding her beak into the ground, sniffing for insects in the muddy ground. In truth, at first, I'd wondered if she was a Weka- I've seen plenty of them, and they've a similar size, shape, and colour to a kiwi. But not the nose, they're smart and adaptable, but not so specialised as a kiwi (maybe why there's so many of them), scratching at the ground like a chicken in search of grubs. Once I saw this behaviour from the dark silhouette under the fallen tree I finally knew I was seeing my first wild kiwi.

Becoming more confident she emerged, as I filmed, from under the tree, prodding around for her lunch. Occasionally she would toss her head back, swallowing a delicious find with glee, before returning to the hunt.

Yet as she moved there was something wrong.

The first kiwi I ever saw was in Wellington zoo. Here they have a kiwi that only has one leg. He hops around in a manner that still worries me (he deserves a prosthetic), foraging in his enclosure as the public watch.
Equally I've seen lame chicken and ducks, even treating a few.
My kiwi was walking in a similar manner. Her right foot was swollen and she wasn't putting weight on it properly. Above the swelling was a small metal ring- an ID ring, evidently made too small for her eventual large size. She was quite big for a kiwi.
I would later go and tell the Department of Conservation officers. Next week there's a team coming in to look at the local population and treat any as necessary. Having a rough idea of were she was, and being territorial, it shouldn't be too hard for them to pick her up in the nearby area. 
She looked to be eating well and was still getting about on the foot so I'm not too concerned, DoC will sort her out. 
(NB- normally seeing a naturally nocturnal animal, such as a kiwi, in the day time, means it's in real trouble. Yet on Stewart Island they frequently come out during the day, particularly after heavy rain when the ground is soft and the insects are more active. It a feeding frenzy and they're not energy going to let the sun stop them!)

As time went by she happily carried on eating from a fruitful patch of leaf litter. In my view, however, along the path, appeared a number of my fellow walkers, from either direction. Thank goodness the path was straight here. I quietly waved my hands, put a finger to my lips, mouthed 'Kiwi', before pointing to the little brown fluffy volley ball rustling through the undergrowth.

Getting the message each party gathered cameras from pockets quickly but quietly, tip toeing towards me smiling. Muted gasps followed before cameras were raised and shots taken. Everyone was quiet, slow, and no one used a flash- we were all on our best behaviour to keep the little delight amongst us. She look it all in her hobbling stride, mooching about, scouring the mud for more crunchy snacks. We all shifted as she moved, no one wanting to leave. The group had grown to 11 people all staring in amazement.

Eventually she wandered off into the forest, though not with much grace. A fallen sapling of many branches barred her way. She took a leap at it, attempting to get through the branches. Most of her made it. But not the giant feet. They were lodged for a moment and wiggled, reminding me Yoda jumping head first into Luke Skywalker's supplies the first time they meet, or when the chickens get sent head first into something in Chicken Run. She wiggled through and went off on her way to see what else the damp weather had brought up.

Day 41-43: Stewart Island 3 day hike

Friday 15th-Sunday 17th January

My three days (well, nearly, didn't take that long) around the forests of Stewart Island with some really weird, annoying, people.

Distance: 42km

Total Distance: 5175km

Ok, what's that racket? How can you all be such terrible people? It wasn't so bad in the morning or the evening when you were all just grumpy and unsociable. But now...
Is that ticking? Who TICKS in their sleep. Seriously. Ooh, they've stopped. No they've started again. They're like a human metronome. It would be impressive if it wasn't so F!@£?ing annoying.
And not one but two snorers? One normal, rhythmic, quieter snorer, the other an occasional hippo impression thrown in for good measure.
Then there's someone whispering in their sleep. Some how load enough to hear, but not enough to understand.
And evidently you can't sleep through this either, eh? The man apparently sleeping under 3 sleeping bags, made of alternating layers of tin foil and crepe paper who insists in turning over every 5 minutes.
Add screams and gnashing of teeth and this would be a soundscape for an Hieronymus Bosch painting. I'm tempted to complete that ensemble...
Sod it, I'm going to the toilet. Maybe the cool breeze outside will refresh me.


Stewart Island's a lovely place. There are plenty of birds here- many that are rare in the rest of New Zealand. The terrain and forests aren't all that so different from many other parts of the country though- maybe muddier in places, but that's about it. Hence, if we're honest, I'd suggest not doing the long 3 day "Great Walk" here and instead staying in the lovely hostels and hotels of Oban and doing some day walks, or going out fishing on a boat. Two older ladies just came into the hostel having caught 20 blue cod and a shark between them in an afternoon!

But I'm probably biased. Here's my "Great Walk" experience.

Day one was cold, slightly windy, and pretty wet. I wasn't really in the mood, but the walk was due to be short so I could wait until lunch time, when the worst of the weather would be gone. 
As I started out from Oban the skies were grey and dull. Over roads and along beaches I headed for Lee Bay where I'd start the true walk.
From here it was just all forests, small hills, and coast line. Plus sand flies. I hate sand flies.
Not much to report, I'm afraid. 

Tired and wet I was glad to get to the first hut, Port William. Up on the white board there were reports of Kiwi sightings nearby- this is the real reason to come here. There are supposedly a few that appear around the hut, as well as on a beach 20 minutes north. 
A few small groups were sat around the communal tables as I entered. I smiled, said hello, made a joke about how grateful I was to get away from the sand flies... And was met with stoney faces or grumpy boringness. What a crowd. I miss the hostel.
I read for a little while, wrote a little, ate some bread and cheese, then went to bed. Not much else to do.

At midnight I awoke and went out to brush my teeth. On the higher land where the grass met the sand 4 young Germans sat in the dark, waiting for Kiwis to appear.
"Seen anything yet?", I whispered.
"Just Possums", they moaned.
As I made my way to the sink I realised what they meant, damn things are everywhere, right by your feet. Doubting I'd see any kiwis I went back to bed.

The next morning I had less than 6 hours of walking to do. Thus, unlike everyone else, and unlike my usual morning, I had a long lie in. It didn't matter when I left.
As the rest exited I began breakfast (bread, cheese, nutty cereal bar), repacked everything, filled water bottles. Once set I ran outside, slammed on my boots and gaiters as the sandflies descended, then took off before they began to bleed me dry.

A simple muddy stumble over a hill into the forest today.
I do like walking at these times. When one learns to let go of trying to control everything, realising one can't think it all through- my spinal cord kicks in and my legs tell me that they work better on auto pilot. They create a rhythm of their own, I don't have to think about it. I'm orchestrating events, but not controlling them. A rider, not the steed. The world goes by as my legs pound along and my mind is free to think about other things.
By 4 o'clock I was at the second hut, having passed a few groups on the way, climbed a fallen tree, done a little sunbathing, taken photos, seen old timber mill sights, watched the birds, and eaten the last of my jelly babies.

Hmmm...6 hours until bed time. What to do?
I finished my present book, read two more short ones, and started another, whilst finishing my cheese and most of the bread. There were a few less grumpy and boring people around, a mature family having joined us, but it wasn't much of a change.

Eventually I went to bed.
Hut beds are just two large platforms between three walls, one above another, with mattresses for each person, most usually with each having their head closest to the edge.
I'd secured a spot next to the wall, so I'd only have another person on one side, leaving me near to the well insulated wall and ceiling, as well as giving space by the wall for my necessities- light, kindle, phone, Walter Knitty.
Here I slept in my thermals, too warm to need my sleeping bag, listening to the cacophony that was my neighbours. 

In the morning there was only "5 hours" to do back to Oban. Again I was the last to leave the hut, but I passed many groups as I ranked up the gears on the flatter ground, heading towards lunch, a shower, and clean clothes.
Then I stopped.
Kiwi!!!
As documented in my previous post, I stumbled, with every bit of luck I could conjure, upon a kiwi. Well done me.


So in the end it was all worth it. I'd been hoping to see more of the island's birds, and whilst this wasn't true for much of the trip in the end I got my kiwi.

Some say it's the journey, not the destination that's important.
This weekend the journey wasn't fun, but the destination was worth it. 
I've seen a kiwi that lives wild and free.
That's good enough for me.

Thursday, 14 January 2016

Day 40: Ulva Island

Thursday 14th January 

Bird watching on Ulva Island

Distance: boat, 2km, walked, 10km

Total distance: 5133km

Today I took a boat out to Ulva Island, a bird paradise. I watched Wekas digging for insects by the path, Kakas chew into trees for grubs, and Stewart Island Robins beg for food wherever one stopped- actually I even watched 3 Robins attack an old lady who'd fed one a crumb of her sandwich. They got away with a good chunk of crust!

Between the forest, my camera, and the constantly moving birds, however, I eventually gave up trying to photograph all that I saw. Some came very close, but my photos were never going to be as good as others, so I just happily ambled about, pausing in one spot for a while, trying to see and hear all I could.

I purchased a very useful little self guiding booklet before I came across. There a some very good guided tours, but it's nice to go out and explore these places alone, when I could be quiet and still. Having said that their guide could show them things I missed.

Here's a few photos from the booklet, for better check Google Images
In order
Brown creeper- heard, not seen
Tomtit- seen
Stewart Island robin-they hunt in packs
Bellbird- heard 
Stewart Island weka- seen many, had to disappoint an Ozzie to tell him it wasn't a kiwi
Silvereye- sitting on power lines yesterday 
Yellowhead- not seen
Kaka- they live in the hostel garden
South Island saddleback- seen! Beautiful 
Grey warbler- seen
Oystercatcher- seen, been told to "piss off" by angry parents who have little fluffy grey chicks at the moment
New Zealand Parakeet- seen! Far up in the trees, a pair, beautiful 
Shining cuckoo & long-tailed cuckoo- not seen either
Fantail- seen. A chick learning to fly landed at my feet yesterday 
Tui- seen loads
Rifleman- not seen
Morepork- not seen here, but saw on North Island 
New Zealand wood pigeon- seen. Looks fat, juicy, and beautiful. I can understand why the Moari loved them.
Stewart Island brown kiwi- others did today, I'm still working on it

YELLOWHEAD