Day 73: Wild West day! Gold panning and horse riding

Tuesday 16th February 

Gold mining (found a tiny flake), horse riding on a psychopath, then pub chat with the local farmers.

Distance: Bus, 200km

Total Distance: 11305km

Another early start so we could get to a small gold mine run by an old Australian and a few backpackers. A few bits for our barbecue lunch were bought, including some kangaroo meat. Kangaroo tastes like beef but has to be medium rare at most. Cooked for any longer it becomes too tough. It's also cheaper than beef so a lot of people use it as a substitute in meals such as stir fries.

At the mine we had a practice using pans whilst looking for crystals from some local dirt. After lunch we moved on to gold dirt. We cleaned out the soil, swirled the pans, and I found a tiny flake! It's not much, but it was a start. Others found small nuggets and flecks, but my luck was out. I can sheep shear, I can't pan gold. We kept what we each found. The mine owner showed us some of his finds, from flecks to some big chunks. There's 3 million dollars under his house, about 1000 ounces. It'll take a while to get through but he's in no rush enjoying the outdoor lifestyle.

We went on to Bangara, a small township of farmers. Here there's a stables which helps breed and train horses for the New South Wales police, apparently. The horses weren't as big as the ones I've seen the British police use.

The girls each got given a horse first. With one guy not doing it there were only two guys left to place.

"Who's feeling adventurous?", of course my hand went up, "ooh, me!"- I am such a child at times.

"You can have Meg then, she's a bit feisty, likes to be at the front.

The next two hours were spent trying to control my mount, stopping her getting ahead of the group leaders and preventing her getting so close to the horse in front that she might receive a kick or not see one of the holes or branches on the tracks. We steadily got the hang of one another and towards the end I let her out for a wee canter. She seemed happy enough at the end, hanging around for a scratch and pat.

On the trek we followed the river down, crossing it twice. Half way along we were invited in by some locals. They'd rescued 3 young koalas and kept them in a small enclosure in the backyard. One was under the umbrella eating as we arrived, looking very confused as 14 horses arrived to stare at it. The koala's mates were both at the top of one of the enclosures trees, barely visible. They were quite big for youngsters, maybe the size of a large cat.

That evening we all hung out with the locals in the pub, where we were staying.  Our guide and I paired up to take on the whole pub at pool. He's much better than me, but I kept up at times so came out winning. Afterwards I taught some of the girls to play and set them up playing against the locals-which was fine until someone potted the black instead of her last ball. Good fun. We had a few more drinks, took it outside, and I chatted life and farming with a few farm hands and managers as others tried to chat up the girls. This went on for so long that the pub doors were locked behind us! Thankfully as I rattled a door in drunken optimism my room mate was passing to let me in. I could have gone back to get the last two girls in, but they seemed to be happily getting on exceedingly well with the locals. I left them to it. They'd find a way in if they needed to.

Day 72: Wine Tasting in the Hunter Valley

Monday 15th February 

Early start to get some proper drinks in!

Distance: Bus, 520km

Total Distance: 11105km

We were up at 5:30am to get the bus out of Sydney. You'd think it would be so we could get out before the rush hour traffic. Actually it was so we could got get a drink!

We stopped off on the north side of the harbour bridge for a light breakfast of fruit juice and cereals. We took a few photos and watched some huge ships navigate their way under the bridge.

It took a few hours to get out of Sydney. We were heading for the Hunter Valley, a wine producing area north of the city. The landscape of brown grass and green trees was replaced by row upon row of grape vines recently harvested interrupted occasionally by wineries. We found ours beyond a wedding venue and a concert arena, a building on a small hill with two wings and elaborately carved doors.

Inside we were treated to a number of not very appetising wine- but I'm not much of a wine fan, so what do I know? It's alcohol, that's what I know. Hence I got a spot next to the spare glass. Who's a clever boy? I am! Hick!

Whoever decided to send a bunch of strangers who would soon ba a team on a mini booze up first thing was a genius. Light headed everyone soon got chatting with far more vigor than previously. We soon found our banter and prattled away on the bus.

We had a little stop at the First Fleet memorial. This commemorates the men who came on the first fleet (let's not mess about with the names, eh?) to colonise the country for the British Empire. Most of them were convicts, no longer able to be sent to North America after the War of Independence. The fleet landed on what is now Australia Day, Invasion Day to the aboriginal people, which seems a fair name. However the fleet didn't so much invade as nearly starve to death. The land couldn't support European...It would be saved by the Second Fleet which would arrive nearly two years later, bringing more convicts, food, and women. The Second Fleet didn't so so well during the voyage though. The first had cost around £140 per convict to the government. The second was sold out to a group of ex-slavers who promised to do the same journey for less than £40 per convict. They crammed the men in, keeping them chained up with minimal food and water. Around 1/3 died. Some suggest this was the idea-with fewer convicts making it to Australia the fleet had more food to trade at the new colony.

That evening we were staying at an old sheep shearing shed, now a rural events centre for  weddings and tourist groups. Some of our group thought it odd to want to get married in a sheep shed. Welcome to the countryside! Here we had a display off sheep shearing and even a try at it. The sheep were all last seasons lambs rather than the ewes which should have all been shawn at the start of summer. This meant they were lighter-useful when the 3 guys in the group had to carry them up the steps into the shed. It was very interesting for those who've never seen this kind of work before. I grew up with it being done each summer at home. Yet I've never used an electric hand piece (basically big hair clippers), only shears (big scissors). So I had my turn and was declared "very good" and "a natural" in the somewhat surprised tones of our host. Got myself a new trade! 😎🐏🐑

Day 71: Sydney Harbour Bridge Climb, Harbour Jet Boat, Meeting the tour group

Sunday 14th February 

I climbed to the top of the Sydney Harbour Bridge! View was amazing!

Then off round the harbour in a jet boat, which as well as great fun gave great views of the harbour.

(Bit silly, it being my last day, doing the two activities which would have given me the best overview of the city. Do them and do them first!!!)

Then down to Base Hostel to meet up the the group I'll be spending nearly a month travelling around Australia with.

Distance: Bus, 6km, Walking, 6km

Total Distance: 10585km

This morning started with a nice casual stroll up on of the tallest structures in Sydney: The Sydney Harbour Bridge. "Bridge Climb" runs out of the Large spaces under the approach to the south side of the bridge. Here we were given light weight suits of hard wearing material covered in clips and clasps. We looked dandy all in matching blue- like a bizarre Star Trek crew. My sun glasses were attached to the back of the suit via a string and clasp. We were given baseball caps, also attached to the back of my shoulder. Due to the potential for runny noses given the winds atop the bridge each of us received a blue hanky to be bound to our wrist and slipped into our sleeves. 

The climbing belt was placed over our heads and fixed around the waist. From it hung the safety line which would keep us, at all times, attached to the bridge rail. We practiced using it on an assembly of steps. Finally the radios were attached at the back of the belt, wires clipped to the back of our shoulders along with headphones. These would allow our guide to talk to us despite any weather or traffic interference. 

That was all we were allowed. No cameras, no phones, no GoPro. The bridge goes up to 134m - the height of my second Bungy jump in New Zealand. Drop something from that height on to a person below and the results will appear on the evening news. This is taken so seriously that there is a metal detector to go through after one has put the suit on. 

Gear in place our troop of 12 left 5 minutes after the group in front, 5 minutes before the group behind. We walked under the road way, some 30m above the park land and water, across iron girders and wooden platforms.  We passes around the granite pylons that stand at either end of the bridge. They look like they should be helping in some structural manner. They're not. The architect purely put them there for decoration, to make the bridge look sturdy and imposing. Within they are primarily reinforced concrete, given a dressing of rough granite only on the external surfaces. Beyond these were the actual foundations of the bridge. Enormous nuts and bolts held the iron in place, locked into the structures beneath. The metal work here has been the first to undergo treatment with a new substance - a plastic that unlike paint will not peel nor wear. It should keep the bridge work safe and rust free for TWO CENTURIES!!! That's how long they think the bridge will safely last for, if not three centuries. And they won't even need to reapply it, apparently.

We then reached the area where we would be climbing stairs, right next to the roadway. Our route would be enclosed in a steel cage designed to keep us safe. Didn't stop some worrying, however, with the sound of cars and trucks flying past their heads. This climb didn't take long though and we were soon onto the bridge's suspension arch.

At the time of construction the bridge was of a new design and was the largest of its kind. An arch was built over the harbour. Suspension girders were then added and the roadway attached below. The design can hold a large amount of weight whilst being relatively simple- all iron girders and rivets. Still took a long time to build though.

It was built to accept the growing size of the city. It includes two train tracks, six lanes for traffic, a walkway and a cycle path. Thus even as the city grow from a provincial port to a centre for business it has continued to keep up with people's expectations. 

The design of the arch means that as one ascends the gradient becomes less. We began on a stair way, then occasional steps, then flat iron. We'd made it to the top! From here, by the flags of Australia and New South Wales, we could see as far as the Blue Mountains and nearly all of Sydney. Most importantly the Opera House- a building designed to be exactly half the height of the bridge so as to a proportional aesthetic. Our guide had a camera attached to his belt and took a few photos of us in the warm Aussie sun.

Most bizarrely at the top though was the Japanese party that seemed to be going on. One group of about 8 was stood on a special platform, infront of a screen, singing into a microphone. They do karaoke on top of the bridge during the day! Couldn't do that in Britain- we need a decent stint at a bar before we'll ever give karaoke a try. Annoyingly they breathalyse everyone before the climb. Guess we'll just be leaving it to the Japanese for now then.

The way down was the same but on he opposite site, down past the railway instead of the highway, and back under the granite pylons. Here we heard about the 16 men who died in the bridges construction. Only 10 were at the bridge- others were at such places as the steel works and the granite mine. One mine worked got his thumb stuck between two blocks, it got infected, and he died when treatment came too late. There was one man who fell from the bridge and survived. He had been a diver in his youth, along with a construction coworker. They'd worked out a plan for if they fell off the bridge. Into the water feet first or head first, took in, hope for the best- because at the height they'd fall from impact would be like hitting concrete. Thankfully he somersaulted and went feet first. He was under water for over a minute. He came up eventually, saved by a passing boat. The stitching of his boots had split and risen up to his thighs. A few scraps and scratches he was back in work 20 days later. Tough guy!

Sydney Harbour by Jet Boat

Having seen Sydney from on high now I'd see it from the water. The boat left from next to the Opera House and went out towards the exit of the harbour. The place was filled with all manner of boats- from merchant ships and the grand cruise liners right down to people's personal speed boats and even kids being tough to sail in toppers- 1 person sail boats the size of a bath. I learnt to sail in one of them, they're great fun. Not so sure in a busy port though.

We saw islands, forts, the houses of the rich and famous, and the back of the zoo. All the while our pilot pulled the boat through spins and sudden stops, getting us all soaked in the questionable harbour water. Additionally it was all done at tremendous speeds- open water allowed them to be far faster than we'd gone in canyons of NZ. It being Valentines Day there were multiple couple on the boat- an interesting choice of date. 

The boat was actually a great way to see the harbour- I wish I'd done it on my first day there. The same with the bridge climb, was a magnificent sight of what the city had to offer.

That evening I met the 17 women and 3 guys I'd be spending the next week with to Byron Bay. The gender gap was like being back in Veterinary School! We met up at a hostel, went for food and drink in a local pub, and socialised with new friends.

Day 70: On the beach with old mates

Saturday 13th February 

Going to Coogee Bay with mates from my university days

Distance: Bus, 4km

Total Distance: 10573km

I've been staying with Chris, an old flatmate I lived with at uni in Edinburgh. Here's been here for just over a year doing an internship. One of our other friends from uni, Cannon, is from Sydney but now lives in the UK. However this weekend he was visiting so we organised to spend a day catching up on the beach.

We met up by Coogee Beach- near to where a lot of the British in Sydney live. It was another hot day so Chris decided to go by us a beach umbrella. At the store the young spaniard informed him "no refunds, no returns". This did confuse us for a while, but it would entertain us all day. 

We went down to the beach for a few hours to catch up and chat about life after uni, as well as tell the same old time honoured jokes. It was great to have a catch up- we haven't seen much of any of our uni mates since graduation. Thus we also got into ideas for when we're all back to reunite the flat for a weekend. (A heads up if you're reading guys!)

All this time the wind picked up and died. Picked up, died. Picked up, died. Then picked up and took the umbrella with it! I ran down the beach proclaiming "sorry, sorry, sorry!!!" to everyone it hit as it tumbled across the sand. Eventually it settled on a man who'd just been struck in the face by it. I apologised then ran away before he could complain. Two to the struts inside were bent, but it still worked. We had problems with it for the rest of the day too, but tied it down with bags enough to not be so embarrassed again.

The rest of the afternoon we alternated between swimming and chatting, went to the local Mexican restaurant, and found some of Cannon's local friends who we ate dinner with. Later, as the sun began to set, Chris got a volleyball and we practiced on the slowly cooling beach. We're not very good. After a few apologies as the ball flew off towards people and needing time to get home we eventually said good bye. It'll be at least another 6 months before we might see each other again. But today was a lovely day.

Day 67-68: Out into the Countryside with a vet and 2 students

Wednesday 10th - Thursday 11th February

Waking up at 4:45am to see some Aussie farms with a vet in the blazing sun

Early start back into the city

Distance: ~300km

Total Distance: 10559km

Today I was going out with a university vet! We started out at 5:30am, with 2 final year students, to go look at cows south of Sydney. We did examinations and treatments at a number of farms. The day was roasting hot but, after the wettest January in 30 years, the landscape was still green. 

The reason for the early start was two fold. We had a 2 hour drive to just get to where we were needed. This was an exciting prospect for me as it allowed me to see some of the real Australia, outside of the city. We passed many townships, farms and houses. There wasn't too much wildlife in evidence. Unless you count the wombat that had been killed on the road. Big solid looking beast, the size of a large terrier but build like a boar.

The second reason for our early start was that we were checking the whole herd to see if they were pregnant. We call this "PDing" for short- pregnancy detection/determination. Thus, having been milked since early in the morning the herd had been put into a small nearby paddock to wait out arrival. Never keep a woman waiting. We needed to be there ASAP.

The herd was relatively small and I helped by moving cattle around for the vet. The sun was blazing down on us, helping my tan. I had time to take in the view of hills, wild forest, hedges, and pasture. In the distance I heard my first wild kookaburra. There were also a few more colourful birds flying around. I'll have to buy a bird book. I don't recognise any of them!

There were a number of jobs to do on a number of farms. We trimmed feet, looked at calves, cows, bulls, and abscesses. The farm equipment, sheds, and yards looked more like the UK or USA than those I'd seen in New Zealand. There was more use of TMRs, Total Mixed Ration (everything they need that the pasture won't provide), instead of NZ's unique use of its well understood, well grown pasture. The dairy cattle are bigger too. More akin to the European and American 700kg cows than the wee 550kg Kiwi Cross. The farms themselves weren't all large, but the size is growing. Many are around 300 cattle, but the size grows as some farms fail to turn a profit and are bought up, or as cooperatives are formed. 

It was a great day out for me. By 2pm we were done. Time for Chicken Wizard! This little take away is the vet farm departments go to for the best lunch in town. We got Portugese style chicken burgers, delicious, succulent, and spicy. A good end to the day before I slept all the way back.

The next day I was woken up early. One of my hosts was supposed to be getting the day off, taking me to the train station later on. However her boss had been in a car crash, so she would be covering him at work. Having just been in a crash myself I'm really starting to doubt the Australians driving skills! 

Back into the city I went. Much of the day was then spent in the various parks bird watching. Still haven't got a bird book, but I did recognise the Ibis, Cockatoos, and Plum-headed...something. I'll work on it for next time 

Day 69: The First Prison built and The Catholic Cathedral

Friday 12th February 

Going to the original jail house in Sydney and the St Mary's Catholic Cathedral 

Distance: Bus, 6km, walk, 4km

Total Distance: 10569km

The first convicts came to Sydney in 1788, building the colony that would become the city. Australia is the one convict colony that became a nation state in its own right. Yes, there were more-the UK sent its uncivilised scum all over the empire! The were effectively used as slave labour even as the UK finally outlawed slavery. Only in 'Stralia did they get organised and make it their own place.

One of the reasons for the success of the colony was its use of skilled labour. Anyone who knew a trade could be used by the government or a private individual as a cheap employee. Not only such trades as shepherds, blacksmiths, and coopers made it out here, but even people who had once been engineers and architects. Thus it was a convict who designed and organised the building of the first major prison here. It's so sturdy it still stands today.

The site has changed over the years, but the central building is still the same. A large building on three levels, divided into four rooms, six for 30 convicts each, six for 70 convicts. Each of the 600 men and boys slept in hammocks, some of which have been recreated on the top floor.

Outside was the courtyard, surrounded by trade buildings built in a solid perimeter to form a wall. Much of this has since been demolished to make way for new buildings as times have changed. The original gate houses are there though and one corner building. Doesn't look like much of a perimeter though. Didn't need to be, most convicts kept there chains on hands and feet throughout their incarceration. However a few did make it over the wall. Most came back within a few hours-there wasn't much to do in early Australia, other than get killed by the ecosystem.

I made a quick trip to the enormous building next door too- St Mary's Catholic Cathedral, built in the medieval gothic style. It still amazes me that people just over a hundred years ago decided to build buildings of the type that we constructed in Europe 500 years ago. They're expensive, time consuming, and technically difficult to build. Yet here it is, a European cathedral in appropriate style and grandeur, on the other side of the world. I first wanted to look around at lunch time,but arrived during mass, when people looked to have come from work. Deciding to wait until later I went to the prison. Later I accidentally arrived during afternoon mass which many seemed to be attending straight from work. I quietly waited before taking a look around. The Catholic Church doesn't do things by half here. There's all the small altars, alcoves, and shrines one would find in a far older cathedral. They also have the garments of a Saint, the last Catholic priest killed by the English government.

Day 66: Blue Mountains

Tuesday 9th January

Blue Mountains, including falls, three sisters, and scenic world

Distance: 270km

Total Distance: 10259km

The Blue Mountains are classed as one of those "must do" sights if you are spending anytime around Sydney. Thankfully one of my hosts was due to be working in Penrith today. She gave me a lift to the train station, which is on the line leading into the mountains, and I was there in less than an hour.

I got off at Katoomba, a township over over 8000 residents, plus not a few tourists. From here I got the bus to part of the Prince Harry Track which I would be following to a variety of viewing platforms sat out on the edge of the cliff. From the cliff we could see the forest below stretching out towards a flat-topped mountain out on its own, surrounded by mist. As the day wore on the mist began to clear and I moved further along. 

The Three Sisters are a formation of three rock stacks. In Aboriginal legend they are three sisters engaged to three warrior brothers who died in battle and now stand forever waiting. There's a playing field size lookout platform alongside them, but also a small set of stairs down to them. So of course I took the steep, narrow, frankly dangerous steps to stand on one of the sisters.

I had lunch in the centre behind the sisters. There's an Aboriginal cultural show you can see, as well as a large gift shop, bar and restaurant. Quick lunch, check out the store, then I was off to "Scenic World".

The ONLY reason I went to Scenic World was because that name is SO terrible. It was begun decades ago when the name sounded good. They had big plans for the place. There's roller coaster that would never meet changing regulations for safety and so never be used. The orphan rock, a solitary rock stack used for a lot of weddings, now too unstable and crumbled for the public. They still have the worlds steepest railway though, as well as a couple of cable cars and their exhibit the mining history on the site. It was actually really good. It's something that would be very worth doing for anyone who can't (or is just too lazy to) see much of this type of area by foot.