Day 8: Cape Reinga (Most Northerly Point on NZ), Sandboarding, and 90 mile Beach (Dead whale too)

Sunday 13th December

Tonto and I took a bus tour north to the top tip of NZ

Distance: 450km

Total Distance so far: 1718km

The morning began at 7am with a bus full of young people and a middle aged Australian who was hard of hearing- who had his dog with him! She was very well behaved until told not to be and let off the lead- at which point she'd travel up the bus for pats and cuddles, or to run in the surf when at the beach. 

We drove north through numerous townships mostly of historical significance. There was the site where the Waitangi Treaty was signed, the first place Pakeha organised to settle land in New Zealand (they were missionaries from Australia), the resting place of the Rainbow Warrior, Green Peace's ship sunk by the French, and we took a walk through a reminent of native forest using a board walk through the swamp built for Queen Elizabeth II for her 1990 visit. Our driver was amazingly knowledgable about the area and told us more than I can remember.

I'm not going to tell you a great deal about these places at present because

A) Wikipedia has a far better memory than me, as well as maps.

B) I can't spell all the place names

C) Happy Hour starts in less than an hour

I'll try write something interesting about it all in the future, but for now let's move on to Cape Reinga

At the tip of the North Island sits a little squat light house watching as the Pacific Ocean crashes against the Tasman Sea. The depth of the Ocean gives it a deeper, darker, hue compared to the lighter, greener, sea.

This place is vastly important to Maori culture. From here the spirits of the deceased are released from their mortal body. As a sacred place no food is allowed (as its disruptive to Mana, the spiritual force of Maori mythology).

The day wasn't as bright as one might have liked, but the rain receded enough to allow for some nice photos and a chance to wander around. 

We then moved on for lunch, going to a small cove which was slightly sheltered and inhabited by a roving pack of seagulls. The main road is high up on the ridge of the peninsula so driving down is slightly hairy in a large coach. Coming up wasn't much better, made worse by our having to swerve around a car parked up to help a group- who's rental car had taken a tumble of the edge of the road! It had flipped, but everyone looked well. We got waved at but if the coach stopped on the hill path it wouldn't start again. Therefore we carried on until the driver had radio reception. He contacted head office, the police, and the Department of Conservation. Someone else was able to help them and we carried on.

Just before 90 mile beach are ridiculously huge sand dunes. Probably about 50m high, may be more. 

These we climbed holding onto sand boards (body boards/mini surf boards/ironing boards without legs), before throwing ourselves onto them (keeping faces over the board, not in the sand) and hurtling down, using legs that are off the edge for "control". It's sledding for people who like sun, surf, and sand in your eyes. Swimming goggles or those goggles racing horse riders wear would have been very useful. I just had my glasses.

After 3 attempts our time was up. We patted the sand out of... Well, everywhere... And got back on the bus. After a short drive DOWN A RIVER we got onto the beach. Here, having found a spot the driver was sure wouldn't swallow the coach, we were released, as was the hearing dog. She charged off ahead of us all, storming the waves and scaring young women. The tide was going out, but the waves slid lazily out before crashing back in a far greater distance than the most keen travelers were prepared for. The screamed and shouted as they ran back in, trying to not get swamped, the dog deciding it was a great game.

The beach runs for 90 nautical miles, charted by Captain James Cook in his notes as the "90 mile desert", the beach being so big that from his ship he couldn't see its depth inland. We drove along the 55 (land) miles, at one point taking in the astonishing sight of a dead beached whale. It landed there a week ago and was significantly decomposed at this point. Shortly the Department of Conservation and local Maori will have a ceremony for the Whale. The bones will be taken for ceremonial purposes. The soft tissues will either be buried or allowed to feed the local wild life.

Finally we stopped off at a local "Fush n Chips" shop for the usual fresh fish. Similar to Britain, but fresher fish, smaller (manageable), portions, and far cheaper.

Tonight we'll have some R&R, then tomorrow I get a lie in, before going sailing at 9am.